How to Drill Accurate Holes in a Cylinder or Flute ??????

Mike Turner

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Laurinburg NC
I make flutes as a hobby. I use a drill press and have tried some different ways of placing the finger holes accurately in line on these flutes. It is so easy to get "off". I though about getting a bench top milling machine which some makers use but wish there was a cheaper way that was still accurate.. A bench top milling machine on the cheap is still $700 to $800 plus all the necessities.. (My drill press is not the best but works) Ive been looking at Craigslist and have actually posted an ad wanting to do a swap/trade for some things I have...some nice deer hunting stuff and some other odds and ends...Any ideas on the placement of these holes??? Thanks!
 
You don't have to buy a milling machine to get an x-y table....

I don't know how long a flute is, but will 9" of travel do ya? $124 + tax + shipping, straight from Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-1-2-x-12-Compound-Slide-Table/H7979

Their 12" travel model is only $132.


Of course, these are Chinese made "precision" pieces, so your mileage definitely will vary. I'd not want to use these guys for precision drilling holes in pistons or multiple piecework that required repeatability in the fixturing... but they should be plenty workable for a wooden flute.

If you REALLY want to go cheap, you can build a simple sliding table really easily. Hopefully your area has a good metal supply / welding supply store. Buy a 36" stick of acme threaded rod for $15-$20, a couple acme nuts for $5 each, and JB Weld everything to a wooden superstructure and TA-DA. Sliding Table.
 
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That's what I was thinking as well. Just make the table move and not the bit.

I think a guy could make something with some thread-all and maybe some channel or T track.
 
I just hope the CNC guys don't get ahold of this!

I'd say get one of those cheap X/Y tables. I've got one for my DP and it comes in handy for all kinds of things.

Only works well on small projects, but it does do a good job of helping me get more accurately placed holes.
 
I would think something along the lines like making a fluted column.
Secure the cylinder between to points, then build a jig to hold a plunge router and slide the router down the jig and put the holes where you need them
 
What kind of flutes are you making. I've done the Native American flutes and yes, that was the hardest part for me. I once thought of maybe trying to do the process backwards and drilling those holes first, while the blank was still a square, but then you would have the problem of the correct location of the holes as you shape the rest of the flute. I wonder how the Native Americans did it with no fancy tools.
 
I dont make the Native American flutes but may go that rout eventually. I make the rimblown flutes like Mohave, Anasazi and Hopi. I lso make some Irish flutes though I am not fond of those. The rimblown flutes are blown from the end like you would a pop bottle and are similar to the shakuhachi somewhat. I have thought about drilling the holes before turning also and may try that. Thanks.
 
I know people here have a problem wit Google it but the reference to Native American flutes sent me wandering. I doubted they got the holes that straight and some of the pictures here support that.

http://Flutopedia.com/naf_history.htm

We were at Frontier Town just. South of Ocean City,Md last week and I heard a Native Flute being played which caused my interest to peak when I saw the reference to them here. They sure do have a captivating sound when they are the only instrument being played.

Garry
 
I used to make english pipes and I never wanted the holes in an exact straight row. My fingers aren't the same length and I found it more comfortable to offset the holes accordingly.

That said, there are plenty of ways you can build a jig without investing in a milling machine.

First, let's assume that you do want the holes exactly in a row. As suggested above, you put your cylinder in a v-block. Then it's a simple matter of moving the block in one axis under the drill press. A couple of easy ways come to mind.

1. Try step blocks. Let's say that you want the holes at 1/2" intervals. You cut some blocks 1/2" long. You position your v-block properly for the first hole, drill it, and then add a block. Drill the next hole and so on. If you want different distances, use different sized blocks.

2. consider an old worn our bandsaw blade. It doesn't need to be sharp. all you care about is the right number of teeth per inch. You can mount a section of the blade in a straight line and you have little stops at regular intervals. Use a strip of paper against the blade to indicate which teeth you want to use. Put a little metal paul on your v-block so you can quickly move the block from one position to the next.
 
I use one of these for drilling cylinders, but I'm not sure it is what you are talking about.

I have a machinest's "Vee" block and I have a couple I have made out of wood. The big disadvantage is the rotation that you can introduce as you slide the flute down the "V" to drill the next hole. Whereas, a "V" that is long enough for the flute, that moves along a fence, with the flute clamped
to the "V" block prevents that problem.

Obviously, the more accurate the fence, the "V" and the straight edge of the "V" block that rides the fence, the more accurate the final product. I would think that a good wooden V-block riding along a slippery, well adjusted fence would be quite satisfactory for a wooden flute.

Enjoy,

JimB

Gary, that was a very interesting article that you guided us to.
 
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