Adding Drawers to an Enclosed Machine Base

glenn bradley

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I don't have the room for an enclosed machine stand that doesn't enclose a motor. Why enclose valuable shop real estate? I don't get it. Anyway, I'm not too good with this sheetgoods stuff. I imagine folks who know how to do this get a chuckle out of watching me hack my way through a simple cabinet :eek:. At any rate I am faced with this potential space-waster:

G0529 Cab 1.jpg

I plan to build something like this into it:

G0529 Cab Plan SU 2D.jpg

It will securely mount in the frame taking the job of adding rigidity that the front solid panel normally takes care of. Just shop ply and pocket holes, nothing fancy. Let's see how long I can drag this thing out (<=== read sarcasm here) :D.
 
I know what you mean. I essentially am doing that, the unit will just slide in and screw to the frame :D. I tried to buy the unit without the base and I was just going to mount it to my flip top but, no dice. My mistake was putting the base together and setting the tool on it. Once I saw how much room the smaller footprint gave me, it was all over.
 
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Glenn I think you got a good idea there. May be a fiddle but if secured to the base it would also dampen any vibrations that the base gives off now. Is that base currently mobile? Looks like its off the ground. I think you just sealed the fate of my Dewalt planer stand. :)
 
glenn not to add insult to injury but what about making a insert that would go inside the existing stand, taking one frnt panel off to allow for the insert and anchoring the sides to the new cab with drawers.. one it would make use of the space more and two would look more professional..but the sander on top of your base cabinet is easier.. just make the top solid not just a frame work in my estimation.
 
glenn not to add insult to injury but what about making a insert that would go inside the existing stand, taking one frnt panel off to allow for the insert and anchoring the sides to the new cab with drawers.
No insult at all Larry. That is exactly what I am doing; measure hole, build box with drawers to fit in hole, stick box in hole and mount to exiting internal flanges that the front panel would normally mount to :thumb:. Added bonus, I saved the plywood required for the top, bottom and back :rofl:.
 
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I realize now, that I did not provide enough info in the first post. Here's the hole I aim to fill:

G0529 Cab (2).jpg

Here's the sides and a bunch of webframe pieces getting pocket-holed:

G0529 Cab (4).jpg . G0529 Cab (3).jpg

With the carcass partially assembled, I can check the upper and lower braces, dividers and the drawer height progression.

G0529 Cab (5).jpg

The lower and upper panels that look like drawers are actually bracing to resist racking. I will move it about wheelbarrow-style using the rollers that I've fastened to one end that you can see in the lower left of the first pic in this post. There are four drawers . . . which I better finish this coffee and get back out to the shop and make if I plan to finish this thing soon :rolleyes:.
 
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And we have drawers. Wow! Is this what Allen feels like? I rarely move this fast.

G0529 Cab (7).jpg

Seriously I have to pause now and shellac a few things. then I can add the webframes and slide in the drawers ;-)
 
Youre not using drawer slides?

No, with the small drawers I thought I would try a guide method that controls lateral movement from under the drawer. A little awkward to explain but, I'll show some pics. I have used the method on hallway and occasional tables on pieces for clients. With hardwood I just use paraffin for lubrication. As these drawers are ply, I will add some Nylo-tape, drawer-tape, slick-tape or whatever brand name you prefer. Some are made of HDPE but, the type I have handy is UHMW from Woodcraft.
 
I really could have just made the drawers piston-fit and let them ride on the plywood sides greased with paraffin and these would have lasted a lifetime. I wanted to try the guide method with sheet goods just for my own curiosity. Hardwood drawers work well with this method since it is easy to make small adjustments with a block plane. You can sand ply to adjust but, if the adjustment is too much you rapidly run out of veneer :D. At any rate, explaining this runner method takes longer than installing them:

I leave a 1/2" between the bottom panel dado and the bottom of the side (for other methods I only leave 1/4" - 5/16" on light duty drawers) to provide a decent side bearing surface.

G0529 Cab (8).jpg

The guides are just strips of hardwood with two counter-bores and through-holes. Ignore the finish on the runners; these things happen when you build from scraps :). Both holes are oversized to allow adjustment. For the plywood drawers I added some UHMW tape to avoid wearing through the bottom panel over time. I must think I am going to live to 120 :rolleyes:.

G0529 Cab (9).jpg . G0529 Cab (10).jpg

The drawer rides on top of the runners and is held side-to-side by them as well. I leave the thickness of a piece of masking tape worth of "slop" so they are controlled enough to travel smoothly but, not loose enough to bind. The drawer front is an overlay but, I use the runners as a stop as well to distribute the force when a drawer is shut less than delicately.

G0529 Cab (11).jpg . G0529 Cab (12).jpg

The runners center the drawer in the opening like so:

G0529 Cab (13).jpg . G0529 Cab (14).jpg

A little more fuss than shop drawers deserve but, this method works so well on solid wood drawers, I wanted to try it out. The verdict? Not a good solution for plywood drawers. Glad I could take one for the team :thumb:.
 
Sorry, I finished this up and moved right on to the next thing on my list without posting completed pics. Here you go:

Did I show how I use figure 8 connectors as drawer stops with the drawer open? I'm sure I stole this idea somewhere:

G0529 Cab (15).jpgG0529 Cab (16).jpg

Here he is shellac'd and installed. Wheels are used wheel-barrow style when required for access.

G0529 Cab (17).jpgG0529 Cab (18).jpgG0529 Cab (19).jpg
 
I was somewhat confused about how you were going to put the sander back on it, all makes sense now! Nice build.

Sadly I've already hacked my stand apart and re-welded it together.. Your build looks nicer :D
 
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