New 'smaller' Crosscut Sled

Ned Bulken

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Lakeport NY and/or the nearest hotel
I’ve been in and out of the shop lately, this week I’ve been working on another batch of cutting boards. THe last time I made boards back at the end of August, I found that on some of my boards, my cross cut sled was building in an uneven cut (out of square) when I was trimming for the flip/glue stage of the boards. To counter that, I'm making a new sled.
My old sled was built about 8 years ago, and I”m sure the fence can be adjusted. I didn’t glue it down, just screwed it on. HOwever it is built to do panel cuts on up to 24” deep workpieces. That’s all fine and dandy, but I’ve been working on much smaller pieces of late, and that honking big sled while stable and wonderful as a support isn’t getting any lighter to lug around the shop.

new sled front 1.jpg

It is 18” deep by 22.25” wide, 3/4 borg birch plywood with maple fences.

new sled rear.jpg

Those photos were just before I made the center cut. I’m in process of doing the 5 cut square method for the rear fence. It was a bit cold out there tonight, so I shut things down ‘early’ and tomorrow I’ll move the fence. My calculations using the method William Ng has graciously shared on youtube show that I have to move the fence .243” back which sounds like a lot, but hey, I want square cuts, so… gotta do it. I’ll post more photos tomorrow.
Once I get that moved, I’ll add a trap box to the back of the rear fence where the blade protrudes at the end of the cut. I’ll also drill a hole somewhere in the field so that I can hang the sled up when it isn’t in use. I May also inset some T-track on the rear fence so I can add hold downs and a stop block etc.. Depends on how ambitious I feel as well as how I can easily lay hands on the t-track. now that I think of it, I believe I will definitely add the t-track, but that I’ll simply screw it on to the face, and add a strip of maple to the top edge, giving me a more substantial handle to push the sled with.
 
That oughta do it Ned. I have a few sleds for different purposes; always handy to have. All have adjustable fences and that has paid off a couple of times.
 
Ned my sled overhangs the left side of my Unisaw so instead of a trap box I put a stop block on the saw & on the sled so that it just finished cutting through the material & stops before it goes all the way through the sled fence. Perspectives are different to me the front fence is where the T-track is & the one where you rest your hands & push the sled & the back fence just helps hold the thing together.
 
Glenn,
I've used the heck out my big sled, but honestly, I built it for panel cutting, and I've rarely if ever cut said pieces... so smaller will be much better. Thinking about what I'd like to add on, I'm thinking a jig for 45* cuts, and/or 30*, thinking of doing some glue ups for segmented bowl/vessel turning.

Bart,
I use 'front' and 'rear', because the 5-cut square method video I was watching earlier today, they reference the same in the instructions. With this sled's smaller size, I won't be able to use a stop block, unless I were to move the fence forward on the sled. I'm comfortable with a trap box/block since I had a quick and dirty one on the old sled.
 
Thinking about what I'd like to add on, I'm thinking a jig for 45* cuts, and/or 30*, thinking of doing some glue ups for segmented bowl/vessel turning.

I popped a couple of threaded inserts into the surface and bolt down a triangle that I use for 45's. For your multi-angle requirement, a pivoting fence could be just the thing. I've wished for one on one of my sleds now and again :).
 
wrapped up 98% of the sled today:
sled finished rear.jpg

sled done front.jpg

trap block.jpg
trap block on the rear.

all of the fence surfaces are rounded over 1/8" and the edges of the plywood were broken.

I added the t-track, I have yet to build a stop block or what not for it, think I may rotate it up to the top of the fence though. First time to cut aluminum, on the miter saw... just a touch of pucker factor there, but it did the job just fine.

I put it to good use:
cut offs.jpg
mid cut.jpg
last cut.jpg
board in a bin.jpg
 
Looks good Ned.

I can't tell from the pictures, do you have a runner for each miter slot or only the one? I couldn't quite tell from the pictures.

I'm trying it with just the right runner, that way I can move the sled over and use it from the left miter slot for dados.
I made a ton of cuts with it tonight, trimming up 6 cutting board blanks, and other than one board which was planed slightly wierd before I glued things up, I didn't find any untoward flexing. If I find it moves too much, I can always add another runner on the left side.
 
Thanks Darren!

Works well, and one additional note on the 'single runner'...

I'm right handed, and I tend to push with both hands , pull back with my right hand after the cut. When I pull back on the left side only it racked a bit, but nothing 'bad' happened.
 
I'm trying it with just the right runner, that way I can move the sled over and use it from the left miter slot for dados.
I made a ton of cuts with it tonight, trimming up 6 cutting board blanks, and other than one board which was planed slightly wierd before I glued things up, I didn't find any untoward flexing. If I find it moves too much, I can always add another runner on the left side.

Thanks for the details. Interesting to hear that it works well with one runner, I suppose it depends a lot on how good a fit you get :D
 
Thanks for the details. Interesting to hear that it works well with one runner, I suppose it depends a lot on how good a fit you get :D
Honestly, I cheated a bit, I had two UHMV runners on my old sled, I simply borrowed one for this sled. There is a little slop, but not enough to worry about, and since it is man made, there is no seasonal movement to deal with.

Great job on the sled Ned. You are becoming the master of cutting boards :thumb:

I'm trying Bob, I'm sure as heck trying! Actually they're easy to do, and I love the reactions when folks see them.
 
...There is a little slop, but not enough to worry about....

Excuse me, but weren't you concerned enough to use the 'five cut' method to ensure accuracy? Then you say a little slop in the miter slot rail is nothing to worry about. That's a pretty big thing to worry about, since that slop will affect the accuracy greatly. Even 1/64" of 'slop' will put the 'five cut' method off by as much as a full degree - depending on how consistent you are with keeping the 'slop' the same for each cut. Since that consistancy will be hard to achieve, the cuts could vary all over the place.

It's pretty much a waste of time to spend all that time making the top of the sled perfect, then let the bottom of it (the runner) slip and slide cattywompus (technical term :rolleyes:).
 
I think if the sled is just being used for cutting boards, 1/64 of an inch means little.
If neds using it for intricate complicated builds, it may effect it a drop.
I doubt whether some of my table tops are that perfect in a 6 foot span that 1/64 or 1/32 of an inch is noticable.
 
Excuse me, but weren't you concerned enough to use the 'five cut' method to ensure accuracy? Then you say a little slop in the miter slot rail is nothing to worry about. That's a pretty big thing to worry about, since that slop will affect the accuracy greatly. Even 1/64" of 'slop' will put the 'five cut' method off by as much as a full degree - depending on how consistent you are with keeping the 'slop' the same for each cut. Since that consistancy will be hard to achieve, the cuts could vary all over the place.

It's pretty much a waste of time to spend all that time making the top of the sled perfect, then let the bottom of it (the runner) slip and slide cattywompus (technical term :rolleyes:).

It has to move 'some' Jim... and when I was installing it, I had to adjust the fit so it Just fit through the slot. 'slop' was the wrong term to use. It rides just fine through, and the UHMV won't change like maple or oak would in the same situation.

I think if the sled is just being used for cutting boards, 1/64 of an inch means little.
If neds using it for intricate complicated builds, it may effect it a drop.
I doubt whether some of my table tops are that perfect in a 6 foot span that 1/64 or 1/32 of an inch is noticable.

I'm at .002" once i run the 5 cut method.. not worth fixing in my book.
 
I would like any woodworker to show me how their piece is off2/1000th of an inch and then show me that measurement in 3 hours again.
Wood moves. 2/1000th is not even a number for me when it comes to woodworking.
 
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