an idea for a wine bottle holder

Dan Noren

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now that the shop is really closed down for the winter, i've gone head-first back into the realm of sketchup. here is an idea for a wine bottle holder, 3 bottles, playing with the curves again. not sure if i like the 2 types of wood, or the same wood one. i like the idea of having it look like the bottles are one step away from falling out of the holder.
 

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its too big for a tabletop unit and its too small for a floor unit.
you need to increase its capacity for a floor unit.
and I believe for stability you need to increase(thickness) the center piece holding the bottles.
too thin and the bottles arent very stable. want to make sure if someone bumps into it, the bottle wont tip out and fall.
sorta reminds me of a sharks fin. Id soften the pointed edge at the top, make it a gentler more rounded top.


oh wait, did you ask for an opinion? sorry, just thought Id convey my thoughts.
 
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oh silly me, i forgot the dimensions... lol

nah, not too thin, that fin is 2" thick, and the plan is that the bottles are 3" in diameter, the holes will be just a cat hair above that, maybe a skinny 1/64".
 

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...not too thin, that fin is 2" thick, and the plan is that the bottles are 3" in diameter, the holes will be just a cat hair above that, maybe a skinny 1/64".

Laminate the fin in three pieces, with maple sandwiched between two walnut, or something similar. Also, wine bottle dimensions vary by more than the 1/64 you mentioned. Some might not fit. Make the cutout more like 3-1/8".
 
you need 3 and 1/8th, and yes 2 inches is too thin for the fin.
your going to need to balance the bottle precisely for a 2 inch fin, and you might make someone unhappy if a little breeze knocks the bottle onto the floor.
Id go a minimum of 3-3.5 inches thick. For me, the wider the fin, the more attractive and "rich" looking the piece is.
but again, 2 inches is too thin, trust me, Ive experimented with thinner ones hoping to make drilling easier.
 
with a 3 1/8" hole, it would be a balancing act because of the extra gap at the top. it would have that extra 1/8" gap at the top (as the bottles will be resting on the bottom), and would be a very loose fit. with a 3 1/16" hole, it would be only a 1/16" gap (i measured my standard 750 ml bottles, and the diameters were 3"), with a much snugger fit.
 
Instead of a 2" glue up why not space them apart say 3/8 with some chrome, nickle or stainless spacers and the the hole to be cut will only be through each piece individually. Run a dowel through the spacers and glue it in to each piece to hold things together. This would give more to holding the bottles. That's my two cents.
 
Instead of a 2" glue up why not space them apart say 3/8 with some chrome, nickle or stainless spacers and the the hole to be cut will only be through each piece individually. Run a dowel through the spacers and glue it in to each piece to hold things together. This would give more to holding the bottles. That's my two cents.

eds idea would lessen the heavy look of it dano and might help on the holding by not being one uniform contact point, like fingers holding better than a palm does.
 
ok, i've thinned out the boards to 5/8", and spaced them to a 3/8" gap. i'm not too fond of it for the following reasons, it triples the number of mortises and tenons needed from on pair to three, unless the holes for the dowels (and i figure 4 holes) are drilled all the way through, resulting in the end grain interrupting the flow of the grain, locating them will be difficult enough, instead of 3 holes to round out at the spindle sander, there are now 9, increasing the opportunity for error, and with widening the fin like this, overpowers the base, and would result in needing a proportionally larger base, and that is not an option, as this is intended to be a bar/counter top holder. i am posting the 3 versions of the holder, the first, the second which i like, and the third with the spaces. the third version only increases the contact area by a touch over a half inch. i checked something, if i held the bottle in one hand, with only the first 3 fingers, and thumb holding the bottle (sorry pinky!), the three fingers together measure up to a touch over 2", and i think that's enough to hold the bottle in place, with a close fitting hole. the key to this design working is the close fit of the holes for the bottles.
 

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Dan, fair enough just an idea.

Just a thought could you keep the two side pieces free of the bottom? There by eliminating two of the mortises? Would not one mortise be enough to mate the base to the stand? If the stand is made with enough foot print there wouldn't be any rocking. Again just a thought. I like the idea though however you go.
 
...it triples the number of mortises and tenons needed from on pair to three...

Yeah, but if this is to be a production item, then you could easily build a mortising jig to cut them with a router, and the whole routing operation should take less than two minutes, with a plunge router.

The tenons should be easy enough to do on the tablesaw, with a 'regular' tenoning fixture, or you could also build a router jig for the tenoning, too. With a bit of ingenuity, you could build both router jugs to work with the same bit, and same depth settings, so you wouldn't even waste any time changing setups.
 
:lurk: :lurk:

I've seen pictures of several folks making these, very curious how well they actually hold a bottle in reality. Naively it seems that it would slip out to easily... but I've certainly been wrong before (and if loml is correct .. often :rofl:).
 
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