Building a Storehouse

Stuart Ablett

Member
Messages
15,917
Location
Tokyo Japan
The area on the first floor of our building was going to become the Dungeon metal working annex, but for now it will become a storage area, hopefully for my new business if I ever get it off the ground, but in the immediate future for some equipment from a very good customer who, at the end of this month will be moving their sushi shop to a new location and needs some space to store their fridges and some other stuff for a few months. They have been a customer for over 30 years and are great people, so when they asked us to store their stuff, we said yes. Now I have to build a couple of walls.

I went to the DIY place and bought the first load of stuff..........

iK9qt.jpg


...... my micro van was FULL!

Enough 2x4s and plywood to build the walls and insulation too. I will put a kind of concrete board on the outside and drywall on the inside. This is going to be very plain jane, but will do the job.

N7KcJ.jpg

The area behind the van that little green fence thing and all the way to the back wall will be the storage area. This will encompass the hatch to my Dungeon too, which is a good thing.

CvDGM.jpg

another view

yDAxa.jpg

You can see the door frame that I had made way back in 2001 when we built the building, that will hang the door that cover the main panel right now, you can see them behind the wooden crate there.

I5Pjz.jpg

You can see where the wall will go, right of the emergency light in the picture.

y7gv9.jpg

I'm debating if I should get out the diamond wheel and cut into the tiles to bury the threshold of the door frame a bit, as I'll be bumping pallet jacks with crates on them in and out of that door a lot.

Well here we go I have to do this in my off time, ha ha, and get it done soon, as we are coming up on the busiest time of the year for us, I have maybe a week to ten days to get it done, full steam ahead!

....gulp....
 
+1 on getting out the diamond wheel and getting that thresh hold down into the tile.
On another note the doors like that we have here that threshold is just to keep the door frame in the right place until it is installed than you remove it. Use-lay just a small spot weld on each side so they come off real easy.
 
+1 on getting out the diamond wheel and getting that thresh hold down into the tile.
On another note the doors like that we have here that threshold is just to keep the door frame in the right place until it is installed than you remove it. Use-lay just a small spot weld on each side so they come off real easy.

This one is not like that, it it fully welded on and has the holes for keeping the second door closed, the little pins go into the holes, dunno what they are called.
I really do think I'll be digging out the diamond wheel and making a hole for sure! Should I put some sort of mortar in the hole when I set the door frame in place? What do you think?

I know I have to double up on the studs around the door frame, and a header over the door, but with these doors being really heavy, I'm thinking to maybe go one more? Any thoughts?

Cheers!
 
A questions for you all.

I forgot to buy some felt, or building paper, the thick black stuff, that we would put down under the plate that runs along the ground, the bottom of the wall. This 2x4 will sit right on the tiles, do I need to have something there, or could I caulk it to seal it to the tile and not worry about it?

VERY little moisture gets to this wall, only during a typhoon, maybe twice a year does this area of the first floor ever get even sort of wet, this is an exterior wall, but it is under cover and will almost never have direct rain fall, some rain might get blown on to the wall during a typhoon, but like I said, that might be twice a year.

Do I need some felt under the studs?
I should have bought PT studs to use as plates I guess......

Cheers!
 
This will be a permanent structure. The walls are NOT load bearing in anyway, just to keep the riff-raff out.

They don't sell sill seal here, and thought I was nuts for wanting to use it, PT studs were overkill according to the guy at the home center

The sheething will be 12mm or about 1/2" and then house wrap white paper stuff, on top of that will be a 15mm cement board product called AT-Wall. I'm just going with basic grey to match the concrete walls. This stuff is guaranteed for 15 years.

I did find some foam stuff they use for moving, it is about the 4" wide and has sticky tape on one side, it is only about 3/32" (2mm) thick but should do the job.

I'll insulate with 4" (100mm) thick fibreglass bats between the studs, then 1/2" (12mm) drywall on the inside. Minimal electrical and only a couple of lights. I'll not mud or tape any drywall, nor will I paint it. If down the road it becomes an extention of my workshop, I can just unscrew some drywall and run more electrical.
I will sink the threshold into the tiles, and the sill plates will get a bunch of big tapcons as well as the top plates, all into concrete.

I should be waist deep into it by tomorrow, still getting my ducks in a row.
 
This one is not like that, it it fully welded on and has the holes for keeping the second door closed, the little pins go into the holes, dunno what they are called.
I really do think I'll be digging out the diamond wheel and making a hole for sure! Should I put some sort of mortar in the hole when I set the door frame in place? What do you think?

I know I have to double up on the studs around the door frame, and a header over the door, but with these doors being really heavy, I'm thinking to maybe go one more? Any thoughts?

Cheers!

It might be better to use high strength grout when you set that frame and one can never go wrong with extra studs.
 
I was all ready to start at 8AM, then some stuff happend to push my start time back to 10:45AM, sigh....

I did have a good day, got a good start, and I hope to be done this job quickly, really I HAVE TO be done quickly.

dzoy3.jpg

The start.

KBNfZ.jpg

First studs up.

g3CZo.jpg

IhM22.jpg

First sheathing.

bAjGe.jpg

Corner detail, this will give me a strong corner and a nailing surface for the drywall on the inside, and room to stuff insulation as well.

WM5Ux.jpg

Part two of the wall.

xu8dK.jpg

my messy worksite, I was pressed for time.

o6Zcz.jpg

An insider's view.

ghmjv.jpg

Done for today, I hope to get the majority of the outside done by Friday.

I can honestly say, I'm looking forward to a HOT bath tonight!

I hope to go and buy the drywall on Saturday, and the outside concrete board stuff on Monday, the little truck can't handle both at one time!

Cheers!
 
Too late to make the comment on the foam gasket that you put between the wood and the concrete I guess Stu. Chuck is right no wood should be in direct contact with any concrete PT or not. As for the door frame yes here we have the frames that have tabs on the frames that get pinned to the ground the bottom threshold is just for transportation. It is usually cut off after installation. Could not imagine having to cut tiles or any flooring out to install a steel door frame. The wood in these types of door frames are just there for stability. the main strength is in the frame itself so adding extra studs will not do much. These types of frames usually expand as well to go around the finish material that way it allows the frame to have a nice finish to the wall usually drywall or Vinyl board. oh and don't forget the J molding for the drywall that goes on the drywall between the board and the concrete. It protects and gives a nice finished edge.
 
Last edited:
Too late to make the comment on the foam gasket that you put between the wood and the concrete I guess Stu. Chuck is right no wood should be in direct contact with any concrete PT or not.

Hmm, can you get Bluwood there? Actually I'm not 100% certain that it is rated for direct contact but I think so...
 
I did put a foam seal of sorts down, not as thick as the real stuff, but I think it will be better than nothing, with the PT studs it should be fine.

No J-mould on the floor, I'll just leave a gap of about 1/4" and then chalk it.
 
It's funny how codes are different around the world, or even location to location. Here PT is required for the sill only if touching concrete. One county over the only codes requirement is for electrical and septic.
 
It's funny how codes are different around the world, or even location to location. Here PT is required for the sill only if touching concrete. One county over the only codes requirement is for electrical and septic.

Yea here we live on the coast and it is required if any wood is in contact with concrete. Moisture content is higher but It is not just about Rot but about the mold that comes with it. That stuff is deadly. They have tried to bring building techniques from back east to be used here as per a national code but they just don't work. Leaky condos are a prime example of that and a motivation on how things are built around here with extra protections. I personally have more faith in the old school of building practices where the stuff that was built 50 or 100 years ago still holds strong but back then there was no philosophy of building every thing air tight and fill it with products that off gassed. Wood was cheap and everyone burnt it as a main source of heat. Insulation was almost unheard of and up till the early 70's it was not a huge concern. They had furniture that was made of wood and natural materials made on the farm. I have found old structures with roofing shingles as a gasket that have worked fine since the house was built.
 
Yea here we live on the coast and it is required if any wood is in contact with concrete. Moisture content is higher but It is not just about Rot but about the mold that comes with it. That stuff is deadly. They have tried to bring building techniques from back east to be used here as per a national code but they just don't work. Leaky condos are a prime example of that and a motivation on how things are built around here with extra protections. I personally have more faith in the old school of building practices where the stuff that was built 50 or 100 years ago still holds strong but back then there was no philosophy of building every thing air tight and fill it with products that off gassed. Wood was cheap and everyone burnt it as a main source of heat. Insulation was almost unheard of and up till the early 70's it was not a huge concern. They had furniture that was made of wood and natural materials made on the farm. I have found old structures with roofing shingles as a gasket that have worked fine since the house was built.

Right there with ya on that old school just might be way better than the stuff we are being forced to use (by code) today. But hey it's keeping us in work having to do extensive rot repairs in 10 to 15 year old houses.:thumb:
 
Looks like your making progress Stu.

BTW....do I see "bunny rabbit" sawhorses in the first photo???

Not sure what "Bunny Rabbit Sawhorses" are, but the ones in the pics that I'm using to cut up my sheet goods on are collapsible light weight sawhorses that I build years ago, they are perfect for this kind of thing, as I'm not putting a lot of weight on them.

fEPJ7.jpg


qIxey.jpg


Most of the woodwork done.

cCcuI.jpg

The threshold, you can see the place that the second door has a latch that goes into the threshold, that is why I know that this one is not removable. :)

QYWpg.jpg

Next up I have to cut the tiles so the threshold has a place to go into, then mix up some quick set mortar and set the door frame. Then finish the wall, as it the header over the doorway.
After that it is time for some house wrap, then insulation. I'll be going to get the drywall on Saturday, I hope and the concrete board siding on Monday. I will surely have this wrapped up next week...... last famous words....

OPtUL.jpg

You can see the storage unit, on the left, I moved today as well, that took time too. I have to say I'm pleased, this is going well, I guess it is good to have taken some time and thought it all out ahead of time.

The big job tomorrow is cutting in the threshold, I hope that goes well.

Cheers!
 
Top