Bandsaw Accessories

Al Launier

Member
Messages
1,683
Location
Bedford, NH
Will be using a new tool in the near future (G055LX bandsaw) and am wondering about accessories. I've bought a light & have stocked up on some blades, so now I'm wondering what you would recommend for other accessories, or user "tricks/tips" to improve the use, or safety?
  • Push stick, or better alternative design?
  • When scrolling intricate lines, say with a 1/8"-1/4"W blade, do you still keep the guides set to the blade or let the blade run unsupported? Always thought it better to move the wood rather than twist the blade, but I've seen pictures of scroll work on the table with the guides retracted???
  • My saw has a 4" duct port, but I have a shop vac that has a 2OD" hose with a ~1 1/2" ID. Are there 4"to 1 1/2" reducers to fit the vac?
 
Yeah, there are reducers to go from 4" on down, but you're gonna see vastly reduced collection efficiency along the way.

I have a 30+ year old 14" saw that originally had no provision for Dc, so I built this for it. It's fairly simple to build, and gets the dust from right under the table, before it gets into the lower wheel enclosure. It works quite well with a 4" hose, but could be easily adapted for your shop vac.
 
I adjust my blocks and turn the wood. Scraps for push sticks. The Wixley angle guage is big help for squaring blade with table. Extending the miter guage with wood is important for me. I had a shop vac attached for DC but it came off, need to put back on.
 
Yeah, there are reducers to go from 4" on down, but you're gonna see vastly reduced collection efficiency along the way.

I have a 30+ year old 14" saw that originally had no provision for Dc, so I built this for it. It's fairly simple to build, and gets the dust from right under the table, before it gets into the lower wheel enclosure. It works quite well with a 4" hose, but could be easily adapted for your shop vac.

Thanks Jim, I think that's a great idea. I saved the PDF file & that'll be on my project list.
 
I adjust my blocks and turn the wood. Scraps for push sticks. The Wixley angle guage is big help for squaring blade with table. Extending the miter guage with wood is important for me. I had a shop vac attached for DC but it came off, need to put back on.

Frank, I like the idea of extending the miter guage head. That's another project I'll place on my to-do list. I kinda thought the blades should still guide the narrow blades, but wondered why they are shown retracted. I would be leary of the blades twisting quickly over time if the emphasis is on turning the blade rather than the wood.

I have some scrap for pushing the wood through, but was wondering what designs work best.
 
Push stick, or better alternative design?

I just mostly use scrap at hand the same as others but have "pattern cut" (aka trace with a sharpie and cut close enough) a few of the shapes I use often enough to warrent having 2-3 on hand. Just remember to keep your hands out of the "triangle of danger": http://www.keithptompkins.com/storage/bandsawsafety.pdf
The shopsmith guide is also a nice intro and some safety tips: http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/bandsaw/index.htm

When scrolling intricate lines, say with a 1/8"-1/4"W blade, do you still keep the guides set to the blade or let the blade run unsupported? Always thought it better to move the wood rather than twist the blade, but I've seen pictures of scroll work on the table with the guides retracted???

If the blade is twisting you are probably trying to cut to tight of a corner and need to nibble away a little more gradually or use a narrower blade. I find that if I'm twisting the blade enough that the guides are the primary thing holding it thats a hint for me to back up and reconsider how I'm doing my cut.

If you are careful you can certainly do it with the guides back, although I prefer them pretty close for safety if nothing else. You are less likely to stuff your hand into the blade if the guides are in the way and you are also less likely to have a broken blade jump out and spear you if they are set fairly close.

If you don't have it the Mark Duginske book its useful to review: http://www.amazon.com/Band-Saw-Handbook-Mark-Duginske/dp/0806963980
 
...I have some scrap for pushing the wood through, but was wondering what designs work best.

My bandsaw push stick is a scrap piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 12" (or so) plywood. Looks kind of like this...real high-tech: :D

Bandsaw Push Stick.jpg


I've seen no need to use anything fancier, since the bandsaw isn't going to kick a piece of wood back at me. I only use the push stick when holding the piece would place my fingers too close to the blade. (Which is a LOT closer than my comfort zone around a table saw blade.) Or I'll use the push stick if I'm doing something like trimming a bowl blank for the lathe and there's a possibility the cut will exit the side of the blank, allowing my hand to go into the blade. (I usually just try to avoid placing my hands in a position where they could end up in the blade in the event something like that happens suddenly.)

I've done very little scrolling with my bandsaw, so I'll defer that question to others who've done it.

I've used rubber sewer fittings similar to this from Lowe's or Home Depot to reduce the 4" dust port to 2 1/2" for a shop vac hose:

fc-pipe-sleeves-main.jpg
 
Oh yeah and I meant to mention...

I wouldn't get overly excited about adding other stuff to your BS except new blades and dust collection until you've played with it for a while. They are simple machines capable of much magic all on their own. Over complicating them takes away some of that magic because you spend all your time complicating it (and this is from someone who over complicates pretty much everything).
 
I agree with using your saw for awhile and seeing what add-ons might be valuable to you. We all have some debris laying around that we thought we just had to have before we worked with what we had long enough to know for sure; my compound miter saw for example. Rarely gets used and takes up space. I too added under the table collection. If this is done well, the collection point in the lower cabinet is hardly even needed anymore; I capped mine off. Good lighting is good for your eyes and your fingers ;-) If you are going to use the bandsaw as a scrollsaw much, you may want to look at these pricey little devils. An 1/8" blade is hard to capture in roller guides but, the Griz doesn't really offer an alternative like Cool Blocks just due to the guide configuration. I bury the blade in Cool Blocks when using 3/16" blades and smaller. I made a little wall mount fixture to hold my fence and blade changing tools and have been happy with it. Other things will come to you; be patient.
 
I'm really impresed how helpful everyone on this forum is. I'm sensing that the membership is made up of many "seasoned" craftsmen/craftswomen who have much experience gained over the years and are "giving back" to those wanting to pick up this craft, or to bring along those that are new to this............."hobby".

My thanks to everyone!
Al
 
I agree with using your saw for awhile and seeing what add-ons might be valuable to you. We all have some debris laying around that we thought we just had to have before we worked with what we had long enough to know for sure; my compound miter saw for example. Rarely gets used and takes up space. I too added under the table collection. If this is done well, the collection point in the lower cabinet is hardly even needed anymore; I capped mine off. Good lighting is good for your eyes and your fingers ;-) If you are going to use the bandsaw as a scrollsaw much, you may want to look at these pricey little devils. An 1/8" blade is hard to capture in roller guides but, the Griz doesn't really offer an alternative like Cool Blocks just due to the guide configuration. I bury the blade in Cool Blocks when using 3/16" blades and smaller. I made a little wall mount fixture to hold my fence and blade changing tools and have been happy with it. Other things will come to you; be patient.

Ooh nice setup for the fence Glenn, I may have to steal that. Certainly better than setting it in a bucket like I've been doing (bucket also == place to put offcuts).

I have seen folks use a piece of wood with a kerf matching the blade sandwiched between the guides with Euro style guides instead of cool blocks but I don't think that would work with the side roller guides like the Grizz saws have. If anyone has an idea on how to do something like that I'm all ears (I'll take a picture later - it looks hilarious :rofl:)

Euro style guides for those that haven't seen them pictured below.
scmi_guide.jpg
 
I haven't felt the need to spend money on any accessories for the band saw.

For re sawing this is the fence that I use and since these photos where taken I have modified it to attach to my stock that came with the saw.
002 (3).JPG004 (2).JPG

I made the fence like this so once the wood gets cut it can move however it wants. The fence before the blade helps control it and the lack of a fence after the blade helps to keep it under control if the wood starts to move on you.

And a couple pictures of it in use cutting some walnut.
001 (3).JPG003 (3).JPG

One other thing you might notice is that I removed the upper guides so that I can re saw up to 8" know without the need for a riser block. I'll leave them on for anything 6" or less.
 
I agree with using your saw for awhile and seeing what add-ons might be valuable to you. We all have some debris laying around that we thought we just had to have before we worked with what we had long enough to know for sure; my compound miter saw for example. Rarely gets used and takes up space. I too added under the table collection. If this is done well, the collection point in the lower cabinet is hardly even needed anymore; I capped mine off. Good lighting is good for your eyes and your fingers ;-) If you are going to use the bandsaw as a scrollsaw much, you may want to look at these pricey little devils. An 1/8" blade is hard to capture in roller guides but, the Griz doesn't really offer an alternative like Cool Blocks just due to the guide configuration. I bury the blade in Cool Blocks when using 3/16" blades and smaller. I made a little wall mount fixture to hold my fence and blade changing tools and have been happy with it. Other things will come to you; be patient.

You're right, they are pricey! I guess I should get a bit more realistic & plan on having Mrs Claus get me a scroll saw for next Christmas. LOL

I like the hanging bracket. Do you mind if I copy it?
 
I haven't felt the need to spend money on any accessories for the band saw.

For re sawing this is the fence that I use and since these photos where taken I have modified it to attach to my stock that came with the saw.
View attachment 72333View attachment 72335

I made the fence like this so once the wood gets cut it can move however it wants. The fence before the blade helps control it and the lack of a fence after the blade helps to keep it under control if the wood starts to move on you.

And a couple pictures of it in use cutting some walnut.
View attachment 72332View attachment 72334

One other thing you might notice is that I removed the upper guides so that I can re saw up to 8" know without the need for a riser block. I'll leave them on for anything 6" or less.

Nice ideas Alan. Hope you don't mind if I add these to my project list.

It appears that having a resaw fence is nice to have as a separate tool, independent of the fence that comes withthe saw. I particularly like your concept of omiting the fence behind the blade for the reason you stated.

However, would it be possible/practical to have a similar short bolted to the regular fence as an attachment when needed? It seems that this arrangement would allow easier adjustment using the regular fence to position the resaw fence.
 
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Nice ideas Alan. Hope you don't mind if I add these to my project list.

It appears that having a resaw fence is nice to have as a separate tool, independent of the fence that comes withthe saw. I particularly like your concept of omiting the fence behind the blade for the reason you stated.

However, would it be possible/practical to have a similar short bolted to the regular fence as an attachment when needed? It seems that this arrangement would allow easier adjustment using the regular fence to position the resaw fence.

My re saw fence is independent of my regular stock fence.
004.jpg

I attach it with a spring clamp.
001.jpg

A couple shots of the re saw fence. This is the same one in the previous photos just some slight mods to attach to the fence and added a shorter block in front of the tall fence.
002.jpg003.jpg

A mod I did to the lock down handle as I was tired of hitting it all the time.

Unlocked
005.jpg

Locked
006.jpg
 
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