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Bandsaw Accessories

Jim DeLaney said:
Yeah, there are reducers to go from 4" on down, but you're gonna see vastly reduced collection efficiency along the way.

I have a 30+ year old 14" saw that originally had no provision for Dc, so I built this for it. It's fairly simple to build, and gets the dust from right under the table, before it gets into the lower wheel enclosure. It works quite well with a 4" hose, but could be easily adapted for your shop vac.
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Jim, I have virtually complete dust control on my 17 inch Grizzly. However, I have attained only moderate success with my Delta 14 inch. I'll give this a shot.

Al, I am not familiar with the saw you have so I will just punt an answer. You will probably want a larger table.

Enjoy,

JimB
 
I too have a 30 year old bandsaw, but there is no riser kit for it :( . Still it's the handiest item in my shed. I made a fence for it that fits on the steel table, and also a larger table that fits over the riginal and gives me more table to work on. It also has a fence.

bstable01.jpgfence01.jpgfence02.jpgfence03.jpg

The firs of these is the table for the bandsaw. The fence runs in the two T slots on the left, and can be turned around to support either very wide or very narrow pieces in the same way as the fence in the next pictures. It is adjustable, and the auxiliary fence attaches to allow narrow pieces to be cut in the position shown. or can be rotated 180º to support a wider board.
 
Al Launier said:
Frankly, I suspect my Shop-Vac will have limited capability with the small hose ID. Perhaps I'll need something like this ???
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021015/26326/oneida-diy-molded-dust-deputy-cyclone.aspx
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Honestly the BS doesn't produce THAT much dust (volume wise). The problem really is getting enough moving air to suck it up from all of the places it may spread to while cutting.

Since you now have all these cool tools.. Don't buy a pre-separator, build one: http://www.cgallery.com/smf/index.php?board=1.0
I and at least a good handful of others on this board have made the Thien baffle and imho they work quite well indeed (mine is in front of.. well really underneath.. the Harbour Fright 2HP dust collector). The mini cyclone may be slightly better at getting out fine sanding dust, but for chunks as coarse as come off of the bandsaw mine lets pretty much nothing through.
 
I'm just using a shop vac but be sure it has a bag in it and not just one of those pleated filters. A disposable bag will collect a bunch of sawdust before it needs to be changed.
 
This is the only purchased accessory I have for my bandsaw, besides blades.bandsaw blade rounding stone.jpgUse it to round off the back side of the blade so it maneuvers easier when making curved cuts. Mine is a different brand than this one, but they all work the same way. Jim.
 
Jim O'Dell said:
This is the only purchased accessory I have for my bandsaw, besides blades.View attachment 72383Use it to round off the back side of the blade so it maneuvers easier when making curved cuts. Mine is a different brand than this one, but they all work the same way. Jim.
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Those are worth it unless you have an old junker stone you can use. Get a bar of wax as well.. Canning wax works but the other stuff makes you feel better after you bought it...
 
Al Launier said:
Frank, I like the idea of extending the miter guage head. That's another project I'll place on my to-do list. I kinda thought the blades should still guide the narrow blades, but wondered why they are shown retracted. I would be leary of the blades twisting quickly over time if the emphasis is on turning the blade rather than the wood.

I have some scrap for pushing the wood through, but was wondering what designs work best.
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I had the pleasure of watching a man with lots of experience use an eighth inch blade. He used NO guides. He was using some sort of Carter equipment with the blade. He moved the wood around and the blade turned and twisted. The products were finished when they were removed from the saw---just a nice satin finish.

I think he worked for Woodline. This was several years ago so the details are a bit fuzzy. However, the memory of that blade going through the wood will be with me always.

Enjoy,

JimB
 
Jim O'Dell said:
This is the only purchased accessory I have for my bandsaw, besides blades.View attachment 72383Use it to round off the back side of the blade so it maneuvers easier when making curved cuts. Mine is a different brand than this one, but they all work the same way. Jim.
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Jim, I'm not at all familiar with this. Sounds like a good idea! Am I correct in assuming that this is an abrasive stone suitable for steel & is used break(round off) the two corners on the back edge of the blade to minimize the corners from "digging" into the wood when cutting tight contours?

If this is correct, I'm assuming one would run the saw while using the stone? If so, is there much danger of moving (pulling) the thin (1/8") blade off the wheel, or off center of the wheel? Or, does one "push" the stone against the rear cornmers of the blade to hold it against the rear guide?

Would a Dremel tool with a fine stone also work well?

At this time, I'm not so sure I'd want to pay ~$80 for a Carter grooved bearing rear guide attachment. Are there any other, less expensive grooved bearing devices out there?
 
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Roger Newby said:
I'm just using a shop vac but be sure it has a bag in it and not just one of those pleated filters. A disposable bag will collect a bunch of sawdust before it needs to be changed.
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Roger, I also use a Shop Vac, but I'm not sure what you mean. The pleated filter does have to get cleaned occasionally, but where/how would you apply the plastic bag that wouldn't interfere with the filter? Are you referring to some sort of perforated plastic bag?
 
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Al, yes, the stone on this is used to round the corners of the back of the blade so they don't catch and dig into the wood and therefore slide around the corners better. I've used it on a 3/16" blade and it was fine. I don't put a lot of pressure on the blade, just let the stone ride on it. Do both rear corners. Might be possible to use a fine stone from a Dremel, not sure I'd want the Dremel running.
I'm going to send you a link for an idea from a fellow member here, Sam Blasco. Took me a while to find it again. Must bookmark it. But since the link is to another forum, I'm afraid that other forum might be upset if I post it here for the masses. Jim.
 
Hey Al...I didn't read post by post so I don't know if this came up, but having the same saw, I find the inserts to be a lacking vertically and have received some cool pointers on the fix. It really is a great saw!
 
Jim O'Dell said:
...But since the link is to another forum, I'm afraid that other forum might be upset if I post it here for the masses. Jim.
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Jim, I doubt another forum would have a problem with you posting a link here that points to their site. It sends traffic their way, and that's what most websites are wanting.
 
Thanks Jim, I'm counting on it as it should avoid having to get a scroll saw. I don't have any more roo. Worse case would be for inside scroll work & I'll punt it from there, even if i have to use my saber saw or coping saw.
 
The Carter STD 1 Blade Stabilizer arrived & it was just as described: in excellent/like new condition. Retails for $90 shipped, got it for $60 shipped, feels good to win once in a while!
 
Al one other accessory that you may want to line up in preperation for your opening tomorrow is some solvent to remove the goo that the table of machines is usually covered in. Then get some paste wax or boeshield spray and apply it to your table to keep it from rusting and to have it easy to have wood glide across. The boeshield stuff is amazing if you aint used it before give it a try.

Dont forget to post pics of your new machine. Hey even though we have all seen them before we still like to see them in new hands.

Merry Christmas to you and your family. I would love to be a fly on the wall in your house tomorrow. :)
 
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