Which Dry Grinder Wheel

I have been shaping, roughing in, whatever my lathe tools using a dry Sear's bench grinder. I have a white wheel on one side. I have no idea what it is. The labels are covered and I am not about to dismount it to read the make---which probably does not matter anyway. It leaves the tools rougher than I like.

Accidently I got a whale of a deal on a Porter Cable 8 inch variable speed grinder. (Some one priced the demo incorrectly.) I wish to replace the coarse wheel with a better FINE wheel.

QUESTION: What 8 inch, dry, wheel would you purchase to make the final lathe tool sharpening?

I am assuming that I will go to the wet, slow speed grinder for the final step. The slow speed is just that, too doggone slow for anything except the final passes.

Thanks for any information you can send my way!

Enjoy,

JimB
 
(I got rid of the duplicate thread) ;)

Jim, I'm using the high-priced Oneway wheels on my dry grinder. I've got 80 grit and 120 grit. Ever since I got the Tormek wet grinder, I've not really used the 120 grit wheels at all. I only use the dry grinder on my scrapers and hollowing tool cutters, and I prefer the burr edge the 80 grit produces.

I've been happy with the Oneway wheels, but I know a lot of other turners like Norton wheels, and I believe the prices are more reasonable. I don't know what specific models to recommend, though. In general, the more friable the material in the wheel, the better it sharpens, but the faster the wheel wears out.

If price is no object, the D-Way CBN wheels are reportedly the very best, hands down.
 
I have the Norton wheels and like them a lot. They do last. I have since gotten the 180 grit wheel from D-way tools. Yea it cost a pretty penny but must say it puts a edge on my tools that is almost or as good as my tormek puts on them. It will probably be the last wheel I will need to put on my grinder. I still use my Norton wheels to shape tools.
 
I'm in kinda the same boat as Vaughn, but I have a Norton 100g that I haven't used in over a year since getting my Grizzly wet system...basically a Tormek knock off that uses Tormek jigs.
 
I've tried several but I have three that are all satisfactory in my estimation:

Norton 3X 80 Grit (roughly $50)
I used it for a long time and could have gotten by with it for ever, but we're never satisfied, are we?

Norton SG 80 Grit (roughly $105)
I like it a little better but couldn't really explain why.

D-way CBN 180 Grit (about $185)
Love it! Same reasons Bernie gave. If everything is set right one swipe across a gouge is all that's needed for a fantastic edge. Is it cost justified? Probably not, but I do like it!:) Don't be fooled by the 180 grit. That sucker will remove some steel. Side note... instructions say use on HSS only... no carbon steel.

Having said all that, I have noticed that the real woodturning and sharpening pros don't really seem to care much about the specifics of the grinding wheel. I've see John Jordan put a fantastic edge on a tool with a generic white wheel (that was a little out of balance) and go back to turning. May have wasted a little steel, but it got the job done.
 
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I've converted to the CBN wheels over the past year, and I like them a lot better than the AO wheels that came on the grinder. No dressing, no balancing, no dust, and no risk of blowing up. I've never used a wet sharpener, so I can't compare them to the Tormek/Jet/Grizzly. If I had it to do over again, I'd have gotten the CBN wheels sooner.
 
I have Norton wheels grey type 80, 120, 140 running at 1400 rpm, so far so good. As they came with the grinders I didn't feel like changing them over. My next move would toward a CBN wheel on one of my existing grinders although I may have to do a few mods to get it to run true. As to grinders I have 50 year old Millers Falls and a more recent German, name plate has fallen off so I 'm not sure of the make.
As to color if its white its a fair bet that it Aluminum Oxide and they are a notch or two above the standard grey wheels. I wouldn't dump it just wear it out then change :thumb:
 
Ms Santa brought me two 180 grit CBN's from D-Way Tools. Just put them on my Woodcraft two speed 8" grinder with the Wolverine system and sharpened all my tools....beautiful edges that cut like a dream! They replaced a white 120 and a pink 60 from Woodcraft (Camel Grinding Wheels), balanced with the Oneway system, that did a good job, but not as good as the CBN's. The CBN's are wider and provide more grinding surface, they don't require frequent dressing and are less messy. I like 'em a lot.
 
Jim,
As a newbie when it comes to turning, I'm curious as to why what you turn wet/dry matters?...

In my experience, it doesn't. ;) Sharp tools are sharp tools, regardless of what you're cutting.

Jim, I think you'll find most of the true "stone" wheels are roughly comparable, and that the CBN wheels are considerably better, but considerably pricier. So far, I've not heard from any turner who regretted purchasing the CBN wheels. When my Oneway wheels wear out, I'll be looking hard at the CBNs.
 
Ned,

Vaughn is a hundred times better and more experienced turner than I am; believe what he says. However, I keep hearing that while wet turners want their edges just as sharp as the dry turners, they don't seem to have as strong a desire for a smooth polished edge. Or to put it another way, grinder marks on the cutting edge do not seem to be a negative factor for the wet wood turners.

Come on you experienced turners; tell Ned that I heard right, wrong or it makes no difference.

Enjoy,

JimB
 
In my experience, it doesn't. ;) Sharp tools are sharp tools, regardless of what you're cutting.
That's what logic told me... sharp is sharp, regardless of what you're turning.


Ned,

Vaughn is a hundred times better and more experienced turner than I am; believe what he says. However, I keep hearing that while wet turners want their edges just as sharp as the dry turners, they don't seem to have as strong a desire for a smooth polished edge. Or to put it another way, grinder marks on the cutting edge do not seem to be a negative factor for the wet wood turners.

Come on you experienced turners; tell Ned that I heard right, wrong or it makes no difference.

Enjoy,

JimB

I don't recall the precise link at the moment, but one of the videos I watched awhile back about sharpening for turning touched on how fine you needed to sharpen for turning. Essentially what he said was that for turning tools an 8" dry grinder ought to be handy, and using a good jig (wolverine) with a decent 8" wheel was plenty. Someone in the audience asked him about using a wet wheel to get it mirror smooth, and he allowed as how in his experience that wasn't necessary.
 
...Someone in the audience asked him about using a wet wheel to get it mirror smooth, and he allowed as how in his experience that wasn't necessary.

That is the woodturner's debate of all time. :) Some very good turners insist that the edge produced by an 80 or 120 grit wheel is all that's needed, and other, equally good turners want to be able to see themselves in the mirror finish of the bevel. And both sides present logical explanations for their preferences. Personally, I've gravitated to the Tormek for my gouges and the dry grinder for my scrapers. I like the fact that the Tormek gouge jig is fast to use and the wet wheel removes so little steel, but I very seldom using the leather honing wheels to get the mirror finish, since I can't see or feel a difference in the cut.

Jim, on the wet wood vs. dry wood issue, I'd suggest just finding a sharpening method you like and using it consistently, regardless of the wood. Experiment around a bit and see if you can feel or see any difference in the cutting action. Before long, you'll settle in on the method(s) that work best for you.
 
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