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new year challenge-- brent vrs jim

No freezing for a while Larry as I said "some day" and that is a long time in my terms:) but when I do, I will hide it so you won't get contaminated when you come by:rofl:
 
Looking great, Jim. :thumb:

Advice for future bowls: Looking at the 6th and 7th pictures in your latest series, it looks like your chuck jaws are pretty wide open, at about the upper limit of their capacity. You'll get a much better grip if the tenon is sized so that the jaws are closed nearly all the way. The tenon should be of a size that allows for the jaws to "almost" be completely closed. This maximizes the surface contact of the tenon to the jaws and makes for a very strong attachment.

This image I found at woodworkingtalk.com illustrates it in a true, but somewhat exaggerated way:

59420d1358085457-tenon-size-verses-chuck-holding-power-scroll-jaws.jpg
 
glenn bradley said:
Oh sure, now you tell us.
Click to expand...

Actually, Ted and I both mentioned it upthread...

Ted Calver said:
...For the best grab, you want the diameter of the tennon slightly larger than the smallest diameter of the jaws i.e. if your chuck jaws make a 2" circle when fully closed then make the tennon diameter 2 1/4". Incidentally, I hope you are still using the tailstock to keep pressure on the blank as you turn.
Click to expand...

Vaughn McMillan said:
...As Ted said, you should make your tenon just a bit bigger than your jaws when they are in the fully closed position. For example, my main jaws are 50mm, or just shy of 2". I usually make my tenons about 2 1/4" to 2 3/8" in diameter. Unless your jaws are in the 3" to 4" range when fully closed, I'd suggest making the tenon smaller....
Click to expand...

;)

No worries. Like I said...future bowls. :)
 
Well the bowl is roughed at one-inch. Vaughn said 3/4 to 1 inch---well I was going along and thought I should see where I was---You got it---one-inch---so I stopped.

I Anchor Sealed and removed the now rusty chuck. I've been working on the chuck today and all seems to be OK. As I understand it, now that the bowl is Anchored, I am to sit around and suck my thumb---for how long? Am I supposed to do anything else before turning time?

I have pics but they just look like a couple previous pics. The Anchor Seal just went from white to semi-transparent so they pretty much look like the pre-Anchor pics.

I keep getting cockier and cockier. I'm thinking that the next one is going to be a piece-of-cake (Oh man, Murphy is going to get me for that statement.).

Enjoy,
JimB
 
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It's hard to say exactly the roughed-out bowl will take to dry. The most scientific way to know is to weigh the bowl now, then weigh it every week until you see no change in the weight. It'll likely be at least a month or two, maybe even more depending on how much it has dried during the turning process so far.

The way I usually do it is simply by feel. I hold the wood up to my cheek...not that cheek...the other one, and if it's cool to the touch, I figure it's still got excess moisture in it. But I don't seal my roughouts with Anchor Seal like a lot of folks do. In the case of a sealed blank, I'd say weighing it will be the most certain method.

And that's not cockiness...it's experience. ;) The next one will​ be easier, but you'll likely run into brand-new "learning moments" while turning it.
 
Wow Jim just catching up for the first time in days. My first thoughts were "what have these guys done to Jim :)" you will never be the same after turning that bowl. :) The stuff you being doing previously is now a thing of the past. I can see a big yellow in the future or at the very least more of these huge chunks being turned, even more so when we all get to see the finished item and see that wood pop.

Loving this thread.


Vaughn McMillan said:
Looking great, Jim. :thumb:

Advice for future bowls: Looking at the 6th and 7th pictures in your latest series, it looks like your chuck jaws are pretty wide open, at about the upper limit of their capacity. You'll get a much better grip if the tenon is sized so that the jaws are closed nearly all the way. The tenon should be of a size that allows for the jaws to "almost" be completely closed. This maximizes the surface contact of the tenon to the jaws and makes for a very strong attachment.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this Vaughn great learning lesson that will stick in my head for next time. I had never thought about this point. Oh boy lots to learn. My sponge is getting a little saturated. :rofl: Thanks for the great thread guys.
 
well jim, you have got to where you can see the finish line and brent can start upon his projects while your waiting for yours to finish drying, could be a close race:)
 
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