Complex Moulding Planes

Bill Satko

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Methow Valley
Some of you may remember that just over a year ago I acquired a cardboard box full of wooden moulding planes. In that box were some complex molding planes. I am just now going through the entire collection, getting them in working shape. All need cleaning and their blades sharpened. I started with two of the complex molders, finished one and am working on the blade of the other.

The first plane was completely blackened with soot and some sticky substance. The plane required more extensive cleaning than just paint thinner. I had to use Denatured Alcohol and a Norton Final Shine Gray pad to clean it. I was able to still maintain patina, but I did rejuvenate it with a very light cut of shellac that was rubbed with the Final Shine Gray pad and then waxed. It really turned out nice and you can still see the hand prints of those users before me.

The blade required a little effort to flatten, as it was back honed, either by design or error. I like a flat back, so I put in the effort to make it that way. First on sandpaper and then my water stones. I had roughly planed a board with the plane before sharpening so that I could use the resultant moulding as a way to hone the bevel and remove the burr. It just required some honing compound. Worked very well.

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Here is the plane. I could not help but try it out. It was really enjoyable. The shaving came flying out of the plane. The finish of the wood was great. I believe the plane was for creating base floor molding.

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Here is the shape of the other complex molder. You will note the expensive boxing. I think this one is something special.

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So when you use some of these, do you just start with a square edge or do you have to preshape/chamfer it before using the moulding plane?

Cleaning up nicely btw...
 
So when you use some of these, do you just start with a square edge or do you have to preshape/chamfer it before using the moulding plane?

Cleaning up nicely btw...

Thanks Darren. Yes, I have read that you do want to preshape with rabbet, plow or shoulder planes, but I don't think the first moulder plane fits that scenario. It is made to sit upright on the board and is ready to shape an entire profile. Others with a springline, made to sit at an angle, generally are not ready to plow a full profile and you probably would want to preshape with other planes to establish a complete seating of the plane along its profile. I understand it is also good practice in order to save having to sharpen a profile blade as opposed to a straight blade plane like a plow plane. My limited experience in sharpening profiled blades seems to support this. It definitely takes longer to do.

I am scheduled to take a class with Matt Bickford of MS Bickford Hand Planes this summer over at Port Townsend School of Woodworking. It is a two day class on how to make mouldings using moulding planes. It is based on his new book on the subject. A book that I am going to order today.

I keep bouncing back and forth on the American and English spelling of moulding (English)/molding (American) and just decided it is going to be the English version from now on as it seems more correct to my eye.
 
wont be long and we will be seeing bill in one of those long sleved billowing shirts and one of those felt hats:)

I am just building up my skills for when the world collapses and there is no electricity. I will then be in demand and command any price for my services, such as moulding the edges of base moulding. Don't worry Larry, since you are a Family member, you would get the Family discount and it would only cost you 5 chickens, 1 pig or a bag of coffee beans for each 100 linear feet of hand moulding.
 
Bill the most important thing here to me is that you are enjoying what you doing. We sometimes forget its our hobby in the case of the weekend warriors meant to be relaxing not stressful. So whatever interests you of where ever your mood or fancy takes you is the direction to follow.

I personally enjoy it all hand and power.

I do wish that book you linked to was displayed with a few pages showing so one can see what the contents are like. I have a piece of European Beech i have saved specifically for the task of having a go at making one or two of these planes and trying them out.

Looking at what the guy charges for making those sets i dont think i will be running out and ordering any soon.

Its good to see the old tools being appreciated and refurbished my issue is just how well will these moulding planes of any type work when it comes to using them on the real hard woods.

I guess you dont want to be taking a scraper to these things during your refurbishment and removing all the history marks. :) Thanks for posting and sharing the experience Bill.:thumb:
 
Bill the most important thing here to me is that you are enjoying what you doing. We sometimes forget its our hobby in the case of the weekend warriors meant to be relaxing not stressful. So whatever interests you of where ever your mood or fancy takes you is the direction to follow.

That is my intended goal and I knew YOU would understand.


I do wish that book you linked to was displayed with a few pages showing so one can see what the contents are like. I have a piece of European Beech i have saved specifically for the task of having a go at making one or two of these planes and trying them out.

Rob, check out this blog from his own blog page Musing from Big Pink. He shows some diagrams that are typical of his book, at least that is my understanding. The blog also details what the class is going to be like that I will be taking from him. As for making hollows and rounds, I recommend the DVDs from Larry Williams. See the Lie Nielsen website for details.

Looking at what the guy charges for making those sets i dont think i will be running out and ordering any soon.

Rob, check out what Matt said about how to start. He recommended just starting with 1 set of hollow & rounds (2 planes). This is from his guest blog at Lost Art Press. You can find a used set from any one of the dealers that are online. Check out HyperKitten. Get on the mailing list so that you are contacted when he puts new tools up on his website. The same for goes for Patrick Leach, get on his mailing list. Or just contact them and tell them what you are looking for. Better still, a certain someone was suppose to be looking in attics for a box of woodies. Steve????
 
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I am just building up my skills for when the world collapses and there is no electricity. I will then be in demand and command any price for my services, such as moulding the edges of base moulding. Don't worry Larry, since you are a Family member, you would get the Family discount and it would only cost you 5 chickens, 1 pig or a bag of coffee beans for each 100 linear feet of hand moulding.

this is the reason I visit the shooting range every few months. Just in case the world collapses and there is no electricity.
 
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