With great difficulty you can reach most outlets in the wall behind the Create-A-Bed Murphy Bed. You wouldn't want to do it for routine use, but you can probably plug in an extension cord if you forgot before installing the bed.
There is not room to install a duplex wall outlet in the side of the bed - the bed comes very close to the side when it pivots closed. I finally found a place I can cut a hole for a wire, but not much more.
In practice, I recommend building a cabinet on each side of the Murphy Bed - you will see it in all the pictures on my web site. You need an aisle to get into the bed (queen size usually means an aisle on each side), and 18 inches is a good minimum. There is no nightstand, so in that cabinet I include a pull-out shelf at about mattress height - now you have a nightstand available at night to place your glasses and whatever. That pull out is often below a regular shelf for lights, Kleenex, books, and other "permanent" nightstand items. Doors below the pull out are a great place for extra blankets, pillows, etc. although the basic bedding can be closed into the bed.
Since there are often lights in the nightstands, I usually run that extension cord hidden behind the bed into the base of the side cabinets. Many of my customers have added the little sliding dimmer switches that sit on a counter for the in-bed lighting, or for the night-stand lights - those sliders are placed on the pull-out night table (come up through a wiring hole on the regular shelf.) and can be moved to the nightstand shelf when it is out.
If you decide to put puck lights in the top of the Murphy bed, I suggest increasing the height a couple inches so the lights are not against the mattress - they can get hot. I also add a "closet light switch" - the kind that comes on when you open the closet door - to turn the light off when the bed is closed. All that wiring can be above the bed, except for one power cord, and for that I cut a small groove in the back of one of the plywood sides, so it doesn't show.
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