Table Saw

I'd back up and figure out what features you really need/want. If it's going to stay in one place, it's hard to beat a cast iron top with solid cast iron wings. I've had issues with aluminum tops, after good use, leaving black marks on my stock. Also, a good cast iron top is heavy (less likely to shift or tip when working with sheet goods) and is less prone to warping out of dead flat over time.

Also, the motor is a key point. Most good contractor saws run 1-1/2 hp or 2 hp. Belt drive saws with induction motors rated at 15 amps will give you that. Some brands (Sears was known for this) put a higher HP rating on the saw than what the typical wattage equivelants would give you. Bench top saws often have universal motors in them. They're fine, but run louder, have brushes (another wear item), and generally cannot be swapped out with anything but an OEM part if they go bad. You might want to consider a belt drive saw with a standard frame induction motor for quiet smooth running, longevity, and the flexibility to shop around for a replacement should you ever need one. Some saws will only run on 220 volt circuits. That's a good idea for anything over 2hp anyway, but it's something to consider. Running a 220 circuit in the shop is not a difficult project, but should be planned for.

Then, of course, there's the fence. There are more good fences out there than there used to be, but there's still a lot of stuff on the marke that will be frustrating to use. Biesemeyer, Biesemeyer clones (Delta T2, etc.), Unifence (Delta), Vega, etc. make durable highly regarded fences. A bad fence is a constant frustration to use.

A nice miter gage is more of a luxury. You can do a lot with a standard type gage. Maybe make yourself a cross cut sled. You'll love it.

The ability to control sawdust may or may not be a priority for you. Contractor style saws with the motor hanging out the back don't really give you great options for capturing the dust. My shop is in my basement, and i used a contractor saw for many years. I made a cover for the back that worked well for 90 degree cuts, but had to removed for angled cuts. It worked well enough, but now that i have a cabinet saw the dust collection is always very good.

For your budget, i'd be inclined to look for a good used contractor style saw and put a good aftermarket fence on it. Where i live, used table saws are constantly showing up on C-list. I've gotten most all of my tools used, and have gotten great value. Some tools come in great condition. Some may need belts, a new cord, clean up, etc. If buying used, do a little homework first. The '50's and '60's Craftsman saws are ubiquitous. I see them often for $50 or $100. They need a good cleaning, sometimes new bearings (inexpensive, but you'll need to read up on how to change them out), a new belt, and electrical cord. If you're at all mechanical, this can be a fun project. Spend the money on a decent fence. Then you'll still have some cash left over for a decent blade and some actual wood to cut.

www.vintagemachinery.org or www.owwm.org are great reference sites with old manuals, parts diagrams, and forums for asking questions.

Not to discourage you from buying new, but my experience is that you'll get a lot more for your money and really learn how your machine works before puting it to use if you get something that's already been used. It's usually pretty easy to tell if a machine has been taken care of.

paulh
 
I concur with most of what Paul said, but I respectfully disagree with this comment:

...A nice miter gage is more of a luxury. You can do a lot with a standard type gage. Maybe make yourself a cross cut sled. You'll love it...

Having used several "factory" miter gauges over the years, I'll never go back to one after using the Incra 1000SE. I have a sacrificial fence on it, and it's something I wouldn't want to be without. I never have to check that the angle setting (90º, 45º, 22.5º or any other setting) is right. It just is. Every single time. I do use a couple of different 90º shop-made sleds, too, but primarily just for pieces that are too wide for the Incra.

I also have another aftermarket adjustable miter sled (don't remember the maker, but it retailed for about $200 - $300 as I recall) that's not worth the space it takes to store it. It's actually very well made, but not nearly as precise as the Incra.
 
I concur with most of what Paul said, but I respectfully disagree with this comment:



Having used several "factory" miter gauges over the years, I'll never go back to one after using the Incra 1000SE. I have a sacrificial fence on it, and it's something I wouldn't want to be without. I never have to check that the angle setting (90º, 45º, 22.5º or any other setting) is right. It just is. Every single time. I do use a couple of different 90º shop-made sleds, too, but primarily just for pieces that are too wide for the Incra.

I also have another aftermarket adjustable miter sled (don't remember the maker, but it retailed for about $200 - $300 as I recall) that's not worth the space it takes to store it. It's actually very well made, but not nearly as precise as the Incra.


Someone had your incra rip fence set up on CL a few months back for $100. I wish I bought it :( I have the incra 1000se and love it.
 
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