Torsion Beams - Assembly "Table"

glenn bradley

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Like many of you I do not have the room for a large dedicated assembly table. My main solution for this is my knockdown assembly table which will handle items up to about the size of large dresser or a small wardrobe. My current project is larger.

I used to assemble these larger items at a height of zero (on the floor) or at a height of about 3 feet (on other work surfaces). This is doable but, sometimes awkward and neither I nor my back like moving these things as they gain weight while sub-assemblies move toward completion.

I have seen smaller torsion boxes and I-beams used in various configurations. These 60” versions are close cousins to a version in American Woodworker #148. The size is a good fit in my shop. I hope they will allow safe support of larger items while not hogging the entire open work area while I cobble parts together into a finished piece.

I use the same work area to assemble things that I do to breakdown sheetgoods. A quick SketchUp drawing makes sure I will get all the pieces broken out in one go. I don’t want to forget something and have to move things out of the way again to breakdown more material.

Beam Explode.jpg
***> NOTE; dimensions of filler block is incorrect in the above pic. <***

I use the foam insulation to elevate the material and cut it with a circ saw of a jig saw. For MDF I prefer the jigsaw since it is nearly as quick as the circ saw and creates a lot less spoil.

Beams (1).jpg . Beams (2).jpg . Beams (3).jpg

I mark the service tempered hardboard with the same white pencils I use to mark other dark woods. It is surprising how little sawdust is left behind by Bosch’s very basic little dust fittings for the 1591 saw.

Beams (4).jpg . Beams (5).jpg

I can now easily maneuver the smaller pieces of sheet material and rip parts to width at the tablesaw. To make things more comfortable to move around I add an 1/8” roundover to the top and bottom skins, all edges.

Beams (6).jpg . Beams (7).jpg

I add grooves for the service tempered hardboard to glue into. I use featherbords to assure things stay controlled and as accurate as possible.

Beams (8).jpg . Beams (9).jpg

To be continued . . . .
 
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You were too quick for me Darren ;-)

I test on some scrap to get the filler block dimensions just right and then use the sled to make a bunch.

Beams (10).jpg

I dry assemble one of the beams and use it as a reference surface to glue up the other. I covered the dry fit beam with plastic as this is one of those assemblies where I want to be sure I get decent squeeze out.

Beams (11).jpg . Beams (12).jpg

Tomorrow after work I will use the glued up beam as a reference for gluing up the second beam. If it all works out I will make a second use of the base of my knock down assembly table like so:

assm-tbl-beam-demo.jpg
 
hey glenn, i used your idea of the collapsible supports for the first dresser but i made a top for it that allowed me to store the collapsed pieces in it..worked great might be better than just the rails your using.. to me a complete flat surface is better than a set of rails to support the piece more area to put tools and not have the piece fall off one edge while working on it..
 
rob as for clamping the piece your right, the rails are better as they show in the pics, i was referring to the piece setting on just rails and work being done to it say screwing a piece in place and the project being pushed of one of the rails where as on a top you got more surface area to slide on there again maybe a clamp would be better even in that solution..
 
I am working in a use of the existing fixtures on the knock down table that will clamp the rails to the base parts hopefully forming a rigid platform. I very much agree that you want a safe and solid structure when you go to fitting drawers, adding back panels and the other wrestling about we do with larger pieces. I should be able to show some pics of my first pass at what is percolating in my head sometime this evening.

Working on previous pieces on the knock down assembly table I have had the article I was working on clamped down to it. The last thing you want is for 180lbs and $400 worth of walnut to come crashing down to the shop floor while you're fitting a back panel :D
 

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you dont even need that much value in wood to cause a bad day glenn,, it can be that one piece that matches grain just right and you have no more like it,, makes for a bad hair day well in my case beard i have more facial hair than head hair these days:)
 
I apply a little BLO to help the MDF take the wear and tear, clamp the second beam on and check for a level surface.

Beams (15).jpg . Beams (16).jpg

Just what the doctor ordered; my back is thanking me already :thumb:.

Beams (17).jpg
 
Glad your floor is more level than the last one I had!

Ditto what Carol said... How is it that your garage floor is level?
I doubt mine is even flat, due to 25 years of sagging/heaving, let alone level.
But regardless I thought that they pour them with a slope in them, to let water run out.
 
Glad your floor is more level than the last one I had!

Shim-paks. About a buck at the BORG :D:D:D. The base wasn't actually level for that "photo-op" ;). I have a coffee can full of plastic and wooden shims that sets back by the bench. They get used and re-used all the time.
 
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Nice detail Glenn but i aint sure about how comfortable i would be with just that one hold down clamp per corner.
My thoughts were to have essentially 8 pieces of wood that hang clamped by bolt and wingnut and swing them up like fingers either side of the rails.
But....then i figures that does not work when it comes to packing away flat ply. So i guess your clamp does it all. :) Still i would like a dowel pin on something to stop sideways movement. I just know how "heavy handed" i can be ....mother did not call me "bull in a china shop " for nothing. :) lol

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