Heavy Cabinet, Tile Floor, Your Choice of Feet?

glenn bradley

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I have a buffet/hutch style cabinet in the works that will end up fairly heavy. The feet are simply the ends of the corner posts which I would like to keep close to the ground visually. The floor is a natural tile with the irregularities that go with that sort of material. The corner posts are about 2" square and I am thinking I will use a heavy commercial felt stick-on material small enough to be invisible from a normal observation position of standing or sitting in the room but, large as possible for load bearing. I would then shim if/where required, potentially with additional felt, the odd foot if such occurs. The elevation required for an adjustable foot will foul my floor to furniture line.

Having said all that, what have you folks had success with for a heavy piece on a solid surface flooring when it comes to foot/pad material? TIA.

Example at 1/8" which I prefer:

temp (1).jpg

Example at 1/4" which I think is too much:

temp (2).jpg

P.s. There will be a small chamfer around the bottom edge of the corner posts at the floor line.
 
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Would you entertain the thought of inleting the end of the posts to accept a piece of relatively hard rubber, say ~1 1/2" square x 1/8" thk, or other type of foot that you would prefer? The rubber would keep the cabinet from moving & the depth of the inletting could be adjusted, or shimmed if needed. Just a thought???
 
Glenn I would counter bore the legs with a forsner bit, an insert a T nut and then use these levelers from Rockler. you would then have leveling capability and they would be mostly hidden
Screen shot 2013-03-01 at 8.02.30 PM.png
 
Good ideas one and all. I do have plenty of meat for a recessed cavity that would lower the profile of the adjustable feet and I have a collection of adjustable feet . . . hmmmm ;-)
 
I was going to suggest the same as Charles. Looks like there is enough girth there and as long as it's not getting dragged around moving it, they should hold up fine. I've got some of those 3 wheel furniture dolly's for moving heavy furniture, easy enough to lift one side an slide them under the feet so they don't drag when you move it too.
 
Good ideas one and all. I do have plenty of meat for a recessed cavity that would lower the profile of the adjustable feet and I have a collection of adjustable feet . . . hmmmm ;-)

If you only have 1/8th of an inch clearance, how do you adjust the leveling feet? tip the cabinet, adjust a tiny bit, set cabinet back down, feel wobble and try again? Having spent fair amount of time leveling a TS and a router table, I think that would be a real deal breaker. I think I would rather have the rubber or whatever on the end of the 2x2 and then slide thin shims under the rubber (or whatever).

You got my 2 cents worth. I hope it was worth at least that much.

Enjoy,
JimB
 
glenn use charles idea but get a block of 8/4 glue up and do your cutting of the forstner in that and just glue that to the inside corner and hidden, will strengthen the leg area alot..3 or 4 " high block is fine.. cant get to my pics now so if you dont understand my words holler
 
Glenn i have used the self adhesive felt lv sells in kinda A5 size sheets to adhere very succesfully to legs in that exact situation. It has a bit of give once weight is on it. Keeps item in place but not to the extent that you cannot move it without leaving marks which would be my concern if using rubber. Also keeps load bearing over largest area. I have even used a stanley knife to bevel its edges. Color is beige.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=40026&cat=1,250,43298,43299


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Thanks all. I have to build the four large bins that will fit in the carcass, the beadboard, top and all the back panels yet so, I will percolate on this whilst doing all that. Larry's variation is a lot like what I did on the chest of drawers in my bedroom.

CoD Levelers (3).jpgCoD Levelers (4).jpgCoD Levelers (5).jpg
 
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