Router plate?

Brent Dowell

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Ok, I need to put together a new router top. The laminate on my current one has come off in a big section and my homemade router plate is just ok, but the hole is not big enough to swing a panel raising big.

What commercial plates do you like? I'm not looking for a lift, as my current router should work just fine.

Thanks for your help!
 
I don't like a plate anymore. Just mount the router to the top, multiple tops are cheaper than plates..
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And no mater how good the plate it us never as soothe as just mounting the router to the top.

I am not totally alone in this but there isn't a crowd with this view!:rolleyes:
 
Ok, I'm listening now.

How do you account for the different sized 'holes' I might need for different bits?

(Maybe I should just go get your book out of the garage) :D
 
Yea mounting it to the top is fine if all you ever use is small diameter bits. Personally I'll never do it that way again and will go with at the very least a plate with different size inserts if something should ever happen to my existing lift. I use from 1/4" diameter bits thru 3-1/2" diameter bits.
 
I like having the changeable inserts. My current one is a Woodpeckers...but there are several brands available. I'd suggest you stay with aluminum, it's a little more durable that the phenolic ones. If you do choose phenolic...Woodhaven has some nice ones.
 
We all develop out own methods. I would find it odd to not be able to change out throat inserts to adjust the opening around the bit. I have the Woodpecker with the aluminum inserts but, worked very successfully with the Rockler plates and inserts. The Rockler inserts are a bit fussy as you have to use screws when you swap which may lead to not swapping so . . . maybe not so good. The upside is that you can make your own inserts for the Rockler plates out of 1/8" hardboard so, very inexpensive and infinitely variable. Th original Rockler plates had an opening of something under 3-1/2" inches but, I believe that has been resolved. The Woodpecker opening is around 3-9/16" IIRC.
 
Multiple tops.

My reasoning. An non-interrupted surface along the path of the wood across the cutter is the smoothest. Multiple surfaces along the reference face can leave you sanding out the bumps in the cut. Non a big deal if all you are using a roundover. But if you want to prove it to yourself, use a bevel cutter. The interruptions become real apparent. Again, not a big deal to correct, but more difficult to make it match.. Use a decorative bit with coves, roundovers, shoulders, etc. and sanding becomes a nightmare. However, this all depends on how picky you are with the finished project. As a practical thing, I have three tops and on my table, they are easy to change out. My two cents.
 
Carol, are the tops you use portrayed in your book? Although I ordered the book from Amazon.com on 2/27, I can't tell because I'm still waiting on delivery, perhaps today??? If they aren't in there, are there pictures available? What material did you use for your tops?
 
Page 38 on Carols book show's the router table I believe she's talking about?

Pretty slick looking, and it uses a piece of 3/8 clear acrylic.

I do like the idea of a single, no insert setup. Just trying to figure out how to use something like that in my setup.

I use the Incra router fence system, and it requires kind of a large table with the router offset to the left side.

What I'm thinking is making these as essentially a much, much larger than normal insert.

I could have a frame underneath the table top to support the acrylic.

Hmmm, Time to put on the thinking at. Guess I'm not ordering a router plate today (Sharon, did you hear that!)...
 
Thanks Brent. The mail man just drove by & I hope on the swing back he drops off the book. I'm kinda anxious to read this book to pick up some badly needed tips. As for using the top to mount the router instead of a plate, I would assume that the underside of the table top, if thicker than 3/8", would require routing out until the net "web" thickness is 3/8" to minimize the travel of the bit.

Well, the mail man just delivered the mail & still nothing! This is frustrating. It shouldn't take this long to deliver a book. No wonder the PO is going bankrupt! Hmmmm, I wonder in the mail man is a woodworker??????
 
When you get the book you'll see that Carols entire table top is just the 3/8 plexi. It's adequately supported by a plywood structure that goes around the router.

I'll have to draw up my idea a little later and post it, but I think I'm going to go plateless.
 
With her table 3/8" thick that would suggest she doesn't use a miter head. That holding true, I have a beautiful flat pieces of non-magnetic stainless steel 1/8" thick x 36" x 36" that I've held onto since the mid-late 70's waiting for a good application. I wonder..............?
 
It's what I call a Miter Guage.

PS I just checked out the link above & I really think that design might very well satisfy my needs. Nice, simple, functional, versatile. Plus, it looks like a duct port could be added & the bottom enclosed.

Thanks for the link.
 
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Iv'e seen some discussion about using miter gauges on router tables.

Seems like some people think the best thing the miter slot is used for is for securing featherboards to hold material against the fence.

I'm using a sled with mine to do some rail and stile doors right now.

I don't think I'll even consider putting a slot on my new top.
 
Here's what I'm thinking. It's the same size as what I have now, but instead of an insert, I build a top where part of it is 3/4 mdf with a laminate top, and the other part is the 'insert' if you will.

So instead of using a small phenolic or aluminum insert inset into a top, the whole width of the table is 3/8" plexi. I could make a few of these with different sized holes so that there would be no messing around with plate inserts at all.

I kind of like this idea.

And that's why I ask...

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makes sence to have one plane for a support surface, i have a ring that the set screws for leveling dont stay there.. need to get some lock tight:)
 
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