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Thread: Corner cabinet dilemma...........

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Central CA
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    Corner cabinet dilemma...........

    Here is one of the corner cabs that I was asking about before in the thread about fitting it through a doorway.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    These cabinets will each have a two-rack, pie-cut lazy-susan in them. I'm matching a HD cabinet style (actually I think it's Mills Pride). It's a very simple style, what I would call a shaker style (it's not really shaker style I just don't know what else to call it) except with a v-groove at the rail and stile joints and appropriately matching edge chamfers. I went back to HD to measure the dimension of their corner cab and it is 36" x 36". These, as you may recall, are 35" x 35". This leaves me with an 11" from the inside corner of the opening to the outside of the cabinet. With me so far?

    These are faceframe cabinets with 1 1/2" cabinet stiles. If I only put a 3/4" x 3/4" edge band on the edge, instead of a 1 1/2" stile, I will still only have approx. 14 1/2" of width in the opening, not including what the door will take when fully opened. If I put a full 1 1/2" stile on the cabinet edge, the opening will get even smaller. Does this make sense? I'm concerned about the opening being too small to be of any use.

    Is this too small of an opening? What is an acceptable opening for this type of cabinet application?

    I just went to specialty supplies (the first link to come up on Google), http://www.specialtysupplies.com/lazy-susans-c-59.html

    and now I don't know if it's a pie cut or a kidney shaped.?????? You REAL cabinet folks know what I'm talking about though, right?

    Another question, if I may?

    When a size is listed for one of these lazy susan kits, is the listed size ACTUALLY that size or is it a little smaller or larger? IOW, is a 28" shelf kit EXACTLY 28" in diameter? What is your experience?

    Thanks very much for any help and advice you can provide.
    Thanks, Mark.

    Custom Bonehead.

    My diet is working good. I'm down to needing just one chair now.

    "Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider!" --George Carlin

  2. #2
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    Oct 2006
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    The Ocean State
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    Mark,
    Our kitchen has two corner cabs...door hinged in center...one has 10 1/2 inch doors...which results in a ~15 inch opening. It has a pie cut lazy susan in it. http://www.pbase.com/gclabo/image/6973151/large

    The other corner has 7 3/4 inch doors...which results in ~12 inch opening. This one is where we keep the big pots and such. No lazy susan...Small but works well. http://www.pbase.com/gclabo/image/6973002

    I can't answer the lazy susan measurement question...can't remember.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Glenn. THat makes me feel better. That means that I don't have to remake the cabs AGAIN (for the second time ).

    It just looked like it was a little narrow to me. I guess I'll just do the 3/4" x 3/4" edge, in stead of the typical 1 1/2" stile, on the vertical cabinet edge to give me as much clearance as possible.

    Thanks again.
    Thanks, Mark.

    Custom Bonehead.

    My diet is working good. I'm down to needing just one chair now.

    "Just think how stupid the average person is, and then realize that half of them are even stupider!" --George Carlin

  4. #4
    Steve Clardy Guest
    Most of the listed sizes in susan's are the actual size.

    Most of mine are 45'd across the front. 36"x36" box. I use a 32" round susan.
    Kidney shaped, looks like a kidney.
    Pie cut, round with a pie slice out of it, for door clearance.
    I've only done one 90 corner front box. If I remember, the door openings were around 11"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Smithville, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rios View Post
    Thanks Glenn. THat makes me feel better. That means that I don't have to remake the cabs AGAIN (for the second time ).

    It just looked like it was a little narrow to me. I guess I'll just do the 3/4" x 3/4" edge, in stead of the typical 1 1/2" stile, on the vertical cabinet edge to give me as much clearance as possible.

    Thanks again.
    Keep the 3/4 edge for face frame cabs and plan on overlay doors with the double hinge arrangement. I will check my drawings in the morning from previous kitchens to see what dimensions might be, but I seem to remember about 11" doors. I think the 32" kidneys would work best in that situation (36"x36" corner cab), but it has been so long since I've done a susan, I'll check my Rev-a-Shelf spec sheets to see what would work best with your config. You may not get an answer until tomorrow night though. One thing I learned though -- when you make a corner cab, definitely don't do a 90 degree corner in the back of the cabinet, make it about a 3" 45 degree cut out. You'll understand when you install, much less swearing. Or you could make the sides shy of 24", say 23 1/2", so that the corner cab doesn't go back to the wall, then use a 1/2 spacer where the studs fall to secure. Again, it's all about install ease. Corner cabs are alot closer to perfect than corners are. If you don't feel like rebuilding the cabinet again, cut out the drywall in the corner about 3" on either side. Score it with a knife and a hammer will make quick work of notching it from the cabinet top down.

    Nice place to visit. I sure like talking about working with cellulose fibers.

    sam

  6. #6
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    ozarks
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    installers tools generally include 24 grit beltsander belts, a 20oz estwing and lotsa shims.....but even those have a hard time squaring drywall corners, sam`s right lop off the back corner......tod
    [SIZE="1"] associated with several importers and manufacturers.[/SIZE]

  7. #7
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    Okay, Mark. I found some old drawings and here's the basic dimensions, if I can read them well enough through old coffee stains. For the 36" corner cab, the 32" trays would be your choice. The minimum cabinte side would need to be 21 1/4" from the front edge (to the interior face of the back wall. Center point would be 4 3/4" from the front edge. Most use solid tops, but I always preferred to do two stretchers (6" wide each) and half lap them where they cross. Easier to carry and handle for install. The cabinet opening would be 11 3/8" if you do a face frame with 1 1/2" stiles and 12 1/8" with frameless, or there abouts, inside corner to inside edge for both openings. Keep in mind when you size your doors that they will meet at their outside corner edge at the inside corner of the opening. If this is your first time, my recommendation would be to make scrap doors after the cab is finished and figure out the hinge arrangement/door size before you make your show doors.

    Hope this helps. Based on Rev-a-Shelf Susans, that's what I always used.

    sam

  8. #8
    Steve Clardy Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by tod evans View Post
    installers tools generally include 24 grit beltsander belts, a 20oz estwing and lotsa shims.....but even those have a hard time squaring drywall corners, sam`s right lop off the back corner......tod




  9. #9
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    Nov 2006
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    Sam mentioned overlay doors. What a good idea and a real problem solver too.
    Shaz

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