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Drill bits for pen blanks

Raymond Scott

Raymond Scott

Member
Messages
80
Location
Hitchins, Kentucky (Northeastern part of the state
After finally getting a drill chuck for the lathe (and getting it to work properly!) I decided to try drilling some pen blanks. I got a 7mm bit from PSI and find it to make the holes somewhat over sized. The CA glue I had been using just can't hold the tubes in the blanks I drilled. Is this a common issue?
 
I've had several drill bits from Penn State that ended up drilling holes that were too big for the tube. (Had it happen once with a bit from Arizona Silhouette, too.) In one case, the holes were ridiculously oversized, and of course it was for one of Penn State's most expensive kits. It was at that point I vowed to not buy any more of their products. Paul's suggestion for epoxy is a good one, but I'd also find a better source for a new 7mm drill bit (some of the real pen turners here will have suggestions) and toss the one from Penn State. ;)
 
You're having some wobbling from not centering your starter hole. If you are using a jobber bit, it will happen every time. The longer the hole...and Slims have a long tube, the more deviation you'll find. If you get way into pens, get a hole starter bit...Little Machine shop and other places have sets for cheap! Only way to get a straight shot every time. After that, a brad point bit is your friend. With an even bore, no need for epoxy, thick CA is made for just that purpose.
 
Hi,
The most reliable drills for my penmaking since the 80,s has been the DeWALT EXTREME 2 the 7mm version is HSS-G 7mm DIN 338 DT5050 originally developed for drilling Stainless Steel made in the good old USA. It was discontinued for a while for Slimlines I have drilled up to 800 blanks per drill, because they have a true mini drill point cant sharpen them, do the maths just how cheap can you get, the dont track for me no breakouts I never change my drill press speed fairly fast and be careful the drill is sharp on the flutes and deserves respect, available in many sizes.

In respect to even the most expensive drills I have ever used I take in Calipers or a Micrometer and measure all drills for critical use place them in baggies marked with the rael size usually drill a fraction under and use my real old Hercus Metal Lathe and various cutters to finish sizes. Works for me.
Have success Peter.
 
Like Jim mentioned brad point bits are your friend. Since I have changed all my pen bits to brad point I haven't had a problem. Above all crank your bit in slow. I use 5 minute epoxy on all my pen kits, toothpick and pill holder kits. I also use dental sheet wax to plug the ends to keep the glue out of the tubes.
 
Several problems associated with selecting proper bits for pen kits. One, the sizes are always weirdo. The vendors want you to buy a bit from the when you try a new kit. :mad: Usually those overpriced bits are not sharpened. DAMHIK. And, as pointed out, sometimes they are not the correct size. When I can find brad point bits the correct size for a given kit, that is what I use. I keep the bits in a drawer with the kit it is intended to be used for. My choice of tube glue is two-part epoxy.
 
I agree with everything that's been said about drill bits. I have gotten some good ones, that were sharp, drilled straight, and drilled smoothly from Berea and Bear Tooth Woods. I have settled on Barrel Bond 2 part epoxy for my pens, wood and acrylic. Woodcraft sells it. It's two tubes (like toothpaste) and seems to be easier to consistently get equal parts of hardener and resin than the liquid types. It also expands as it dries and fills any scratches, worm holes, or rough spots you have between the tube and blank. I haven't lost a blank since I started using it, other than the ones I ham handed while trying to get that last hair's breadth shaving off my bit. It's a bear to get the residue of the blank off the tube then. Steve
 
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