two part epoxy over tung oil

Mike Frencel

Member
Messages
31
Location
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Hi guys,

So i'm working with some walnut and 100% tung oil. I'm on my 2nd coat and really love the look of it when it has a nice film of oil before it's wiped and dried. I was wondering if you can finish over tung oil with 2 part epoxy as it gives the look i'm looking for. I understand that the oil needs to breath to cure. I was wondering if anyone has every tried it and how long should I wait after the last coat to apply the epoxy?

Note that i live in canada and we started running the furnace so its really dry in my house :)
 
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I'd wait at least a month before top-coating with anything. Then, I'd start with a couple sealing coats of shellac, and let them cure for several days before putting anything else on it.

I wouldn't use the epoxy, mainly because it's so hard to repair. Instead, I'd use something like Behlen's "Rock Hard" finish, or a varnish.
 
another NO vote for the two part epoxy now, after using the tung oil.. adhesion troubles for sure.. that epoxy is better used as a stand alone finish rather than a top coat.. i also suggest the Behlen's "Rock Hard" finish.
 
I'd wait at least a month before top-coating with anything. Then, I'd start with a couple sealing coats of shellac, and let them cure for several days before putting anything else on it.

I wouldn't use the epoxy, mainly because it's so hard to repair. Instead, I'd use something like Behlen's "Rock Hard" finish, or a varnish.

Will Behlen's give me a similar looking finish? I watched some videos that say you can use a sanding sealer once the oil is cured and put whatever you want overtop the sealer after you sand it smooth.

Also the Behlen's, what is the best way to apply it if you don;t have a spray gun?
 
Will Behlen's give me a similar looking finish? I watched some videos that say you can use a sanding sealer once the oil is cured and put whatever you want overtop the sealer after you sand it smooth.

Also the Behlen's, what is the best way to apply it if you don;t have a spray gun?

The Behlen's will give a nice, deep-looking gloss finish when multiple coats are applied. Sand (or maroon Scotchbrite) the finish between coats, and apply maybe a coat a day for five days. Brushing is fine. That's the only way I've ever applied it. If you want less gloss, you can rub it down with scotchbrite, then wax it.
 
I'd wait at least a month before top-coating with anything. Then, I'd start with a couple sealing coats of shellac, and let them cure for several days before putting anything else on it...

Seconded. At least a month, if not more. Also, you want to make sure it's dewaxed shellac.
 
Mike Lee Valley offers raw shellac flakes that you would have to dissolve and make up your own. What most do is to buy Zinsser shellac available at home depot just make sure to get the dewaxed one as Vaughn has pointed out. Check that the tin actually has this mentioned on it.
 
Zinsser is the primary vendor of pre-mixed shellac. They changed the name of their 2 pound cut dewaxed shellac to remove the name shellac, perhaps so only those with the secret password would know what it is and what to buy.

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If you want a 1 pound cut (for the first sealer coat, perhaps) mix 50/50 with denatured alcohol. If you want a heavier (final) coat, use out of the can. The brush will be near impossible to clean, but next time you need a shellac brush, put the hardened brush in shellac, and it will resoften for use.
 
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I linked directly to the image on the Woodcraft web site... maybe they don't like Canadians. Here it is stored directly on the FamilyWoodworking forum. The name is Zinsser Bulls Eye Seal Coat Universal Sanding Sealer - 100% Wax Free Formulation.

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Let me know if you still have problems.... I will put the picture on my web site for a while if necessary.
 
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I don't know if it is exactly the same, but in years past, the white/blonde shellac had little or no wax, and the amber shellac had a lot of wax (so I tend to think of the wax as part of the color). When Zinsser used the name shellac on the label, the can normally contained 3 pound cut. When they started calling it sealer, they dropped to 2 pound cut (so you really get only 2/3 as much shellac in the can now that it is called sealer).

Bottom line, I would give this a try. It looks like what I used in years past (although my cans never had French on the labels). For a first coat, I would thin it with denatured alcohol until it flowed smoothly into the pores. For build coats, I would use it as-is, or only slightly thinned so that it brushes smoothy. With that guidance I would not worry about whether it is 2# or 3# cut in the can.
 
Not sure if i should make a new thread or not but ill just post this here.

So im on my 3rd coat of 100% tung oil. Im having some issues with grain reversal (i think thats what its called). Iv been applying it every 24 hours using 600 grit sand paper (wiping it down 30 min later). I read that you may want to sand it with #000 or #0000 steel wool between coats. Any tips on how i can even this out.... its bothering me and my perfectionist tenancies :)

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This was taken a hour or 2 after the 3rd coat was wiped down. Any tips? Do i just keep applying more coats and using steal wool between coats?
 
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