New Stanley planes

Roger Tulk

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3,018
Location
St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
I want a Stanley #4, and I'm thinking of getting one of the new ones. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with the new models 12-204, 12-404, and 12-904. I don't need to know that they are not as good as a Lie-Nielson or Veritas which I can't afford, but I do want to know if they are a good value for the price, or should I continue to look for a used #4 at about the same price (<$60). I have a decent Canadian made knock-off #4, but I am a Stanley fan.

TIA
 
I've no experience with the new Stanleys, but I do suggest you take a look at the new "WoodRivers" at Woodcraft. They've reworked earlier designs a bit, and are now on 'version 3' or 'V3'. They're really nice planes for not a lot of money, and like the Lie-Nielsons, are pretty much a clone of the old Stanley Bedrocks.
 
As you live over there and don't have to pay shipping like I do, I'd wait for a good used one, then replace the old blade with one of the new blade chip breaker combos and call it a day, an old bedrock tuned up with a new chipbreaker/blade combo might be as much as a new Stanley, but you will have a better tool, IMHO.
 
Rob, thanks very much. I may go for a #4, although there seem to be issues with the jack plane and the block plane. I own two #5s, one from the late 60s, and one from about 1949, and they are excellent. I also have a pair of newer Stanley block planes of the old pattern, a high-angle and a low-angle, and they are both fine.

Stu, I'll look out for a good used one. Shipping on the eBay planes averages about $40, which is extortionate, and often more than the asking price for the plane. Planes offered in the local media are usually on a pick-up basis, and more reasonable all round. I have kept the original blades on all the used planes I have bought, although I have considered the purchase of a Veritas blade for some of my planes. Buying the thicker blade would usually mean that I had to file the mouth wider, which I am unwilling to do.

I looked in Canadian Tire for a #4, as I had seen on the internet that they were a source for the new Stanleys. Although they carry a lot of Stanley tools, they do not carry Stanley planes, and the tools manager told me they never have. I looked at the Chinese-made Mastercraft #4, and it had no frog adjuster, and an obviious twist to the sole, possibly as much as 1/16" corner to corner. I put it back.
 
As you live over there and don't have to pay shipping like I do, I'd wait for a good used one, then replace the old blade with one of the new blade chip breaker combos and call it a day, an old bedrock tuned up with a new chipbreaker/blade combo might be as much as a new Stanley, but you will have a better tool, IMHO.

I 1000% agree with Stu too.
 
......Stu, I'll look out for a good used one. Shipping on the eBay planes averages about $40, which is extortionate, and often more than the asking price for the plane. Planes offered in the local media are usually on a pick-up basis, and more reasonable all round. I have kept the original blades on all the used planes I have bought, although I have considered the purchase of a Veritas blade for some of my planes. Buying the thicker blade would usually mean that I had to file the mouth wider, which I am unwilling to do.....

Try shipping to Japan :D but yeah, I hear you.

Why are you unwilling to file the mouth a bit wider? :huh: You are not collecting these planes are you? I thought you wanted a good everyday user, a tool to be worked.

I put an Pinnacle IBC/Rob Cosman Blade & Chipbreaker set in my #4-1/2 smoother (and yes it cost $80) but I'll put my old Stanley #4-1/2 smoother up against anything the LV or LN sells on performance and it will at least match them. I have a total of $190 into that #4-1/2 smoother and while it may not be as pretty, it works so VERY well.
IMG_6571_zpsb96fe975.jpg

The plane as it sits today with the new blade & chipbreaker set.

IMG_6573_zpsb641dba2.jpg

Not easy to take a picture with my iPhone, but the mouth is very tight.
When I fit the new blade set, I had to file it maybe 2mm?

In my old #4 I have a Veritas blade, better than the original, which was worn out, but at the time I did not know about the Pinnacle IBC blade chipbreaker sets, I would rather have that set up.

A bonus is that the blade sets are made in Canada.
 
I have not seen either one in person, but between Stanley and WoodRiver V3, I would suggest the WoodRiver. That is solely based on my perception that WoodRiver has more commitment to improving their product and the fact that Rob Cosman is willing to be a spokesman for them and sells them from his website. Woodcraft has the no. 4 on sale for $119.99 US. Too bad you cannot try out both before buying.
 
Actually, I'm afraid of making a hamhanded mistake and hurting the plane. I have some planes I would take the risk with, but others, not so much.

There is very little risk, you just do it slowly and carefully.

Here is Rob Cosman's video on how to do it.


The biggest mistake people make it taking too much off, well just do a bit at a time, count your strokes, also make sure the safe edge of the file is the edge near the side of the mouth on the plane, don't use a large file, but make sure it is clean and sharp. Use masking tape to mark out the area that you want to remove metal and then go slow. Good idea to practice on a real beater of a plane first, but really it is not hard to do, the metal is grey cast and it files very nicely.

Cheers!
 
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Roger,

I bought a few used Stanley Bailey planes on EBAY a few years ago. I have a #3, #5, #7

I paid $35 each for them.

I used the blades that came with the planes and totally restored and flatened and sharpened.

Those planes are awesome.

I didn't have time to read the entire article by Chris - but he said he uses the new Stanley Sweetheart planes. MAN - I don't need any more info than that. I did read some of the article and it sounds like the new Stanley sweetheart is a sure winner.

I love the swoosh of a great hand plane - it's just soooo cool.
 
This may seem dumb but what's so special about veritas or lie-nielsons planes ??


~Ninja~

There is a lot to a hand plane.

The rubber meats the road where the cutting edge - slices the wood.

The quality planes hold the cutting edge (blade) very stable flat and secure much better than a lower quality plane.

Also - the blade will be O-1 or A-2 or some other premium steel.

The tolerances of the openings and supports are tighter, and flatter than a low cost plane.

As a machinist I believe you are well aware of how tighter tolerances and finishes, make a better mouse trap.
The same can be said of a quality tool - such as a hand plane.
 
I have heard more complaints about the new Stanley planes than I have heard love affairs. Note that even the article by Chris Schwarz, he only liked one of the three New Stanley planes he tried, and it didn't seem like he would have chosen that first one.

I spent a lot of time tuning the Stanley 4 that I inherited from my father, and even after countless hours, it only performs okay. The sides are not square to the sole, but this probably isn't a plane for a shooting board. (I did not change out the blade/breaker). If it weren't for the sentimental value, I would get rid of it, since it is so rarely used.

I bought a Veritas low angle jack with the optional blades (so it can work as a low angle, regular, or high angle plane, as quick as changing the blades). It didn't require any tuning, the sides are perfectly square to the sole, the mechanism is absolutely smooth, and with minimal honing it worked perfectly. I never bother to pick up the Stanley any more... the Veritas is a pleasure to use in practically every situation (including smoothing solid wood panels that are too wide for my 16 inch jointer.) I have sharpened a slight arc in the middle angle blade, so it functions as a smoother.

So in my opinion, the question is how much your time is worth, and what you like to do. I hate playing with my tools - I would rather use them. I sell my furniture, so I have revenue from my tools (not a lot - I am retired - but there is some value to my time). I consider my investment in the Veritas plane to be well worthwhile.
 
before one can say yes or no to that plane most would want to see more pictures of it ninh, the sole and the sides and the chip breaker.. those are just some of the things that can be bad and make a plane worthless fast.. if it was to be in good shape and no cracks and the sole was good then $60 for a no. 6 isnt far off base..
 
Tall front knob. Large brass adjuster. Keyhole hole in lever cap. "Bailey" cast into bed in front of knob.

Looks like a pre 1930. Type 12 or 13. In pretty good shape. Iron is nearly full length - could be a replacement.

Wood looks good

Rust seems minor - little more than surface discoloration.

I'd buy it for $60 - but I'd offer $40 first, and deal from there.
 
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