I know This Probably Sounds Silly

Paul Douglass

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S E Washington State
But I have a problem (who would have guessed). In all my years of woodworking, one of the most difficult things for me is getting a zero clearance insert perfectly level with the top of my table saw. I now use boughten ones. Use to make my own and may go back to that. I adjust the thing till I think it is just right, but if I smug the screw at the front down a little, it raises the back of the insert. If I adjust one side it changes the other side. Is there a secret I am missing? I spend more time on trying to get insert just right than any other adjustment needed.
 
I've found for me, the trick is to get them all close, first - don't aim for level until they're all within 1/32 or so. Then sneak up on it by dialing each one just a hair - way less than needed - until they're super super close and then dial them in individually - going around and around until they're all right and things don't wobble.

I don't think there's a secret other than patience, though.
 
I use 1/2" BB ply and drill four 13/64" holes for four 3/8" x 1/4 x 20 set screws.

ZCI-underside.jpg

If our stock insert doesn't use leveling screws this may not be applicable.
 
Paul, I suspect you may have already tried this, but this is how I do it.

  1. Lay a straight edge (i.e combination square, etc.) across & perpendicular over the trailing end of the insert near the set screws.
  2. Using a flash light, direct its beam towards you ,i.e. the front of the saw, while looking at where the straight edge is over the template.
  3. Use the set screws to lower both sides of the template so that light can be seen from the flashlight.
  4. Repeat for the leading edge of the insert.
  5. At this time all four "corners of the template should be lower than the straight edge.
  6. Now adjust each set screw to raise each corner until the light from the flash light "just disappears".
  7. The insert should now be flush with the table at each corner.

Unless I'm using the insert to establish the depth of cut on a narrow/short piece, I actually prefer to have the leading end of the insert just a touch lower than the table & flush or just a touch higher on the trailing end. This prevents any "catching" as the wood passes over the insert.
 
I use 1/2" MDF and drill 5/32 holes in locations to match the factory plate. Then, I thread in M5-0.80 x 12 socket set screws with cup point (same as factory). Next, I do as Jason described to level the plate.
 
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