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Hide Glue

Paul Douglass said:
I was just reading great reviews on the Titebond Hide Glue. What is wrong with using it? No fuss, no mess. But, not traditional?
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I use liquid hide glue on about half of what I make, especially if I think that the piece will be abused and eventually break. For instance, a chair gets use all wrong most of the time, banged around, stressed joints coming from leaning back on the back legs, etc. Eventually those things will come apart, and then hide glue is the best thing in the world. It sticks to itself whereas almost no other glue will (with the possible exception of epoxy with a good mechanical bond).

I like liquid hide glue for many things because it gives a really long assembly time, so it's wonderful for a complicated assembly. Hot hide glue has a really fast initial grab, so in some cases tight clamping isn't even necessary; just finger pressure will work. Liquid hide glue requires a pretty long clamping time (around 24 hours), so it's great when you're not in a hurry. However, if you need to move a project along and don't have the luxury of time, hot hide glue is better.
 
Paul Douglass said:
I was just reading great reviews on the Titebond Hide Glue. What is wrong with using it? No fuss, no mess. But, not traditional?
Click to expand...

The initial tack of the pre-mixed Hide Glue is very low - When I tried it for veneering, it would not hold the veneer in place at all, and if I have to clamp the veneer while the glue develops tack, then I don't have the opportunity to "hammer" off the glue on the surface (where hammer = squeegee in this context). At first I thought the bottle of glue was defective, but I used it in some repairs that required hide glue, and it worked fine... after an extended clamp period. The eventual strength was great, even though there was almost no initial tack. That might be considered a feature giving lots of assembly time. But in my opinion it is useless for veneering.
 
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