Reclaimed Hemlock wood beam table question

Mike Frencel

Member
Messages
31
Location
Toronto, Ontario Canada
Hi Guys,

So i am building a hemlock table from a reclaimed barn beam. Below is the image. I was wondering if there is a way to lacquer the wood without yellowing it? I haven't decided on the finish yet but so far i was thinking a darker stain, darker stain after a sanding sealer mixed with alcohol or just lacquer. Table is below

http://s22.postimg.org/6c5a1b7rl/20131107_202302.jpg

I will be wrapping the top of the table with patinad copper (see below)

http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_images/copper/copper-autumn.jpg

Any advice on how to finish the table would be appreciated. BTW i would like to use Behlen's rock hard table top finish as the lacquer and zinsser's sealcoat as the sanding sealer
 
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Also if anyone knows how i can finish it so that it stays pail vs getting yellowed

like this:

wood-finishes-hemlock-natural-stain.jpg
 

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Light woods will yellow due to exposure to UV rays - daylight. It is the nature of wood. A finish that allows the grain to show is not going to prevent the color from changing.
 
Target coatings urethane is water clear. and if there is a uv issue they also make an exterior grade that can be used as a topcoat.
Also, if you are staining what I like to use are the transtint dyes and I add a little to the finish. It gives a more even coloring

this is the reclaimed chestnut counter I did last spring. I used Targets conversion varnish with the catalyzer and a combination of transtint mission brown and dark brown walnut. Just a few drops in each coat goes a long way.




This is a yellow pine built in I did and finished with the Target urethane no dyes.

 
Target coatings urethane is water clear. and if there is a uv issue they also make an exterior grade that can be used as a topcoat.
Also, if you are staining what I like to use are the transtint dyes and I add a little to the finish. It gives a more even coloring

This is a yellow pine built in I did and finished with the Target urethane no dyes.

LOVE that ceiling!
 
www.targetcoatings.com
they may have a distributor in Canada. Also, send Jeff Weiss and email with any questions. He has always been a great help whenever I have had questions or to run something by him as far as finishes and compatibility issues
you can also buy direct from them but I don't know what the shipping would be to Canada.
 
That ceiling is pretty sweet Roger. That wasn't part of my scope of work, nor was the wainscot. What I found interesting in the picture are the two different shades between my cabinets and the rest of the pine in the room. the walls and ceiling were an oil based product that is discontinued yet for reasons unknown the contractor bought the last few cans in existence for his part of the project...
Granted, his part was up for about 5 months before I installed mine and has had time to darken up a bit whereas mine is fresh. Im going back sometime in the near future to do another project for this client Im interested to see how mine has changed and if it caught up in color or has stayed that fresh yellow.
 
I have been trying different stains and nothing looks good to me. Tried Esspresso and special wallnut by minimax. They all come out very dark. Can i cut the stain with alcohol to make it lighter before applying?
 
first off you need to make sure your stains are compatible with your topcoat. Are they both waterborne? If the stain is alcohol base that should be fine to topcoat with waterborne.
Most of the waterborne finishes I have worked with just need be thinned with water. That said you may also try mixing a bit of stain with some of your finish to achieve the color you want. Try experimenting a bit with it. Hemlock, spruce, pine all those softwoods or any open grained wood for that matter will absorb a lot of stain can be blotchy etc. Another thing to try is to thin down some of your topcoat to use as a sealer and then stain.
Are you spraying? wiping? brushing? all will apply differently
 
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