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Hey Kerry, good to see you drop in. I was just thinking about you the other day and wondering what you were up to.
Sorry if I'm late in jumping in, but like Vaughn has said I have never expected to be able to remount a wood piece back on a lathe and expect it to run true,* even if the jaws were perfectly aligned each time the wood will more than likely have moved as the compressed fibres relaxed.I have a Grizzly knock-off of a Vicmark chuck.
I have a Talon chuck.
I have a problem removing a piece from the chuck and getting it remounted so that it is still centered.
I do mark the chuck jaw and the wood so that relationship is constant.
I do not have trouble with spindle work.
...
I misunderstand the title of this thread, I thought Kalea would be one of the first posters here.
I misunderstand the title of this thread, I thought Kalea would be one of the first posters here.
I've got a couple of Nova chucks, and had a PSI Barracuda at one point, too. In my experience, 80%+ of the time, a blank that has been removed from the chuck will not re-mount perfectly true, no matter how careful I am or how accurately I mark the previous jaw locations. I stopped worrying about it, and now I simply plan on taking a few truing passes to make things round again after a re-mounting. I think both of my Novas have a bit of slop in the jaws when loose, but once tightened, they definitely run true.
As an aside, and this is strictly personal opinion, but I really dislike seeing a foot on a bowl that was an obvious tenon. Similarly, I don't like seeing a recess that still has jaw marks on it. (I really don't like seeing a recess at all, jaw marks or no.) In both cases, it simply makes the piece look unfinished and amateurish. If I lived closer to you Jim, I'd show you some ways to turn that tenon all the way off, or turn enough of it away to where it no longer looks like a tenon.