4' x 7' Pantry Project

made up an oak toe kick and fastened it on. Upper is clamped up, floor for upper with 3" oak trim that will stick out 1". The oak has an 1/8" x 2" cut so the upper cab will sit down over the bottom cab and hide the joint.

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Bryan that upper floor is that oak glued and biscuited to the edge? Is all the melamine chipboard? do u get this stuff from the borg or a better supplier. Stuff i have seen at the HD is not great melamine surface.

Now an important question i need to ask.

When you got asked to make this, and once decided on the design. What thought process did u go through to decide on where to start.
Did you do detail drawings or just rough pencil sketch.
Did you size off the finished panels, thinking here of faceframe ? I really like the way u go about things your sequencing seems logical and easy to follow but would like the skinny of your approach to getting there.
Seems to me you cut material as and when needed rather than all off a drawing. Looks to me like there are huge advantages to doing that.?

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Bryan that upper floor is that oak glued and biscuited to the edge? Yes Is all the melamine chipboard? ​Yes do u get this stuff from the borg or a better supplier. Stuff i have seen at the HD is not great melamine surface.3 sheets of 5/8" from HD, Columbia Forest products. I get them partially cut there so it fits the f150 and easier to handle on the saw. The melamine surface for the interior stands up OK. Way better than a lacquer surface if I used oak veneer ply. But spraying , there is a lot of masking to be done.

Now an important question i need to ask.

When you got asked to make this, and once decided on the design. What thought process did u go through to decide on where to start.
Did you do detail drawings or just rough pencil sketch. pencil sketch. I was given 4' x7' x 18" deep with drawers in the middle on a scrap of paper. I usually look for an image similar to what is wanted to use as a guide.
Did you size off the finished panels, thinking here of faceframe ? I really like the way u go about things your sequencing seems logical and easy to follow but would like the skinny of your approach to getting there. from the sketches, opening for the door sizes input into door calculator software ( Rockler ) that calculates the door parts. Once the doors are mounted, I will make the drawer fronts to match width of doors.
Seems to me you cut material as and when needed rather than all off a drawing. Looks to me like there are huge advantages to doing that.?The mid divider is made to fit. I have to redo it, made a mistake in depth, and used the mistake part to reposition for best look and calculate for the new one.
 
I have 18" soft close full extension drawer slides . No mounting holes at the back of the slide ???, it's full of the soft close mechanism. So I glued on a 5/16" thick strip on the stiles of the raised panel. Now I wish I had chosen undermount slides.
I made version #2 of the floor for the upper cab. I tried for a 3/4" reveal on 3 sides of the upper cab when the doors are on.

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now you have prompted a question on that melmine,, i see your having wide shelves, i hope your supporting them with something in the middle bryan particle board isnt good structurally in my world..
 
now you have prompted a question on that melmine,, i see your having wide shelves, i hope your supporting them with something in the middle bryan particle board isnt good structurally in my world..
oak stips glued, and biscuited on front and back. Front strips are 3/4" x 13/16" in height. Rear a bit thinner, they hook behind the metal support pin. Won't slide out.

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the oak edging is nice bryan but canned goods add up in a hurry in weight and i can see the particle board bowing in time with out center supports frnt and rear.. the edge supports wont stop the bowing bryan??
 
Yesterday I got the new to me PC Omni dovetail jig out and the single pass blind template, but couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong, the bit wasn't going in far enough. So today I thought I would set up the variable finger template to do single pass. It seemed to be the same spacing as the single pass. Not wanting this thing to beat me, I put the single pass template back in, followed all the directions and within 4 test cuts and some adjustment to the stops and router bit, had it working.
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And I only got two drawers to make!
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Got them glued up for tonight.

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I finally got the drawers done. Been at it since 10 am. I had to remake one drawer, it was too snug. :doh: I cut a 1/16 off the side of the snug drawer. Still tight so cut a 1/16 off the other side. Then it fit OK, so I made a new one to that size. :D

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1 piece left to stain, almost done
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lots of masking when using melamine. I buy masking paper rolls from HD, speeds up the masking.
 

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