T-track suggestions!?

Ninh Shepherd

Member
Messages
73
Location
Northwest Georgia U.S
Hi guys I was looking at some T-tracks on rockler today and seen the price. Not terrible but still over priced for what I can make them for. I can make any of these on this page

http://www.rockler.com/search/go?w=t-track

But my questions is which one!!!?
I'm looking for one for my home made table saw as of right now I have just a mitered joint down both sides of the blade using my router which aren't very straight and they tend to pinch each other when using my sleds. so I figure I will widen them (how ever much needed) and make me an actual t track. But is one kind better than the other ? I don't want to make one then later down the road get a diff one and wish I had made the second one because it's way more accommodating. I can make it any width even if it's 3in wide and only put to slots in it that only take up 1/3 of the three inches. So my current a lot width is not a concern as I can correct it properly and then make the T-Track accordingly. But again any suggestions on what kind or style ?
Thanks Guys!
~Ninja~



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well ninh i have a table saw that came with a metal top and it has two miter slots similar to the first listed on the ad you linked to so that would be my choice but you might want to look at how much work it is to make them than to buy ready made ones..:)
 
I need a little clarification as the link goes to a page, not an item. Are you wanting t-track or miter track?

I think if its for the homemade TS, then you'd want miter track so if you bought any miter track tools then you could use them in another TS later (or at least more likely anyway depending on the TS).
 
A small warning mixed with a question for you pros.

When you buy lengths of t-track, it generally doesn't have holes. So you'll have to drill your own, then countersink them. If you don't do that, the screws fastening the t-track to your surface will interfere with whatever's running in the track.

Counter-sinking is my problem. T-track is often sized to fit a 1/4-20 bolt, which means the opening in the track is 5/16" or less. So, if you're buying unholed track, make sure you've got a plan for making the counter sink. All my sinks are much to wide to slip into that 5/16" gap. I ended up using a 1/4" drill bit. Unfortunately, it was (obviously) a metal drilling bit with a 112* angle. Most #6 wood screws are 82*. So if anybody knows where I can buy an 82* countersink that's 1/4" OD and will cut aluminum....?
 
Well Larry I also thought about this as well sir making(compared to ) buying the one I really considered buying was
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This dual sliding track! It seems very versatile And also the best of both worlds. I just wanted to make sure that this would be ok for me to use with my TS JIGS I already have made. And as for ability to make my own I'm a CNC programmer operator. So I already wrote the program yesterday before I left work and I'll tell you it is the BIGGEST luxury getting into woodworking and having my day job! So all I have to do is get the correct dimensions of the one I want and salvage around enough material and run the parts. Only downside is it will more than likely be made of cold roll steel. As we don't have that much scrap aluminum laying around. But only reason I say that is because cutting the keys in metal rather than aluminum make the run time go from 30 mins(alum) to 58 mins(metal). But no biggie just have to keep it well oiled while in the TS to keep from rusting and should be fine.

My main concern is I've never had one like the dual track and I don't want my jigs I make to get caught or pinched in the tracks if I selected the inappropriate ones. If that makes any sense haha


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Ninh, personally I'd go with a single, standard 3/4" x 3/8" tablesaw miter slot profile. That way, you'll be able to use standard off-the-shelf miter gauges like the Incra.

miterT3.gif


I have never had a need for a separate, smaller t-track right next to the miter slot on my tablesaw. And I would go with steel for durability. But don't oil it. Instead, keep it waxed, like you would a good cast iron tablesaw table.
 
Ah!! Thanks for the tip on the wax !!Vaughn!!! And I was thinking about that just now about having one track and if I REALLY would ever need the two track system I managed to find some material the correct size at work this morning to make the dual slide but I may make it one slot that's offset and if I ever want to put the dual slot then all I have to do is unbolt it and take it to work!!! I got it cut out to size today in the 2 hrs early arrival to work and I should have the completed track by tomorrow at lunch ! I'll post some pics of what I come out with !!!


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Ninh, as Glenn stated above, there is some clarification needed - before you machine anything:


  1. First of all, are you looking to machine a slot in your TS to accommodate a Miter gauge or single/double track sled?
  2. If so, you need to machine the slots so they will accept a miter bar which is 3/4' x 3/8" outside dimensions.
  3. For this you would need the Miter Track (http://www.rockler.com/rockler-36-miter-track) & this has 1" x 1/2" outside dimensions as noted on the part description, with inside dimensions of 3/4" x 3/8"
  4. After installing this Miter Track, it would accept a standard size (3/4" x 3/8") miter bar.
  5. The track configuration that Vaughn presented above also has a "T" configuration, but it will accept a miter bar because its inside dimensions are 3/4" x 3/8". Although it looks similar to the Rockler T-Track (http://www.rockler.com/universal-t-track-universal-t-track), it is not used for a miter bar, it is used for clamping purposes. Note also that the narrow, wider slot in Vaughn's sketch is located at the bottom of the primary slot, wheres the Rockler is located above the bottom.
  6. The narrow, wider slot at the bottom of this
    (Vaughn's) track is to accept a "washer" style, or similar miter bar. This "washer" is attached to the bottom & forward end of the miter bar and slides into the narrow track with the bar. This is to allow bringing the miter gauge way back to accommodate a wider work piece without the miter gauge falling off the track as the washer is preventing the bar from tipping up.

Hopefully, I haven't misunderstood your intent, just wanted to clarify the difference between the track styles & their purpose.
 
Ninh, as Glenn stated above, there is some clarification needed - before you machine anything:


  1. First of all, are you looking to machine a slot in your TS to accommodate a Miter gauge or single/double track sled?
  2. If so, you need to machine the slots so they will accept a miter bar which is 3/4' x 3/8" outside dimensions.
  3. For this you would need the Miter Track (http://www.rockler.com/rockler-36-miter-track) & this has 1" x 1/2" outside dimensions as noted on the part description, with inside dimensions of 3/4" x 3/8"
  4. After installing this Miter Track, it would accept a standard size (3/4" x 3/8") miter bar.
  5. The track configuration that Vaughn presented above also has a "T" configuration, but it will accept a miter bar because its inside dimensions are 3/4" x 3/8". Although it looks similar to the Rockler T-Track (http://www.rockler.com/universal-t-track-universal-t-track), it is not used for a miter bar, it is used for clamping purposes. Note also that the narrow, wider slot in Vaughn's sketch is located at the bottom of the primary slot, wheres the Rockler is located above the bottom.
  6. The narrow, wider slot at the bottom of this
    (Vaughn's) track is to accept a "washer" style, or similar miter bar. This "washer" is attached to the bottom & forward end of the miter bar and slides into the narrow track with the bar. This is to allow bringing the miter gauge way back to accommodate a wider work piece without the miter gauge falling off the track as the washer is preventing the bar from tipping up.

Hopefully, I haven't misunderstood your intent, just wanted to clarify the difference between the track styles & their purpose.


What he said :thumb:
 
The other issue I see with the aluminum T-track, and I bought the heavy duty track from Peachtree that I use when I need T-track, is the mounting holes are for pretty small screws. The HD T-track I use has a hole about every 5 1/4". But I'm not sure how well these would hold over the long term, especially under extreme pressures.
I'd be curious to see a picture of your home made TS. Might help with some ideas. Jim.
 
I was also wondering the same thing Jim. I really don't know how far away to put the holes in the tracks but as far as the fasteners I'll make the holes 1/4-20 screws with a socket (Allen wrench) like this

ezuru3em.jpg


And for my table I will probly just use drywall screws because my table is wood so is rather not use the fine thread to hold it down. But any rate lol I'll countersink the holes as well of course and will deff post many very detailed pics once done. I was hoping to have it done but the machine I was using yesterday was ran during second shift and didn't have the dang vices in it so I may stay late today and get done but regardless it should be done by tomorrow at the latest.


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Well I was gonna post a short vid on this but it won't allow me to I don't believe but the vid is a 30 sec vid of me running a test cut scratching the part as we call it to reinsure measurements calculations and decimal places but I have everything set and ready to go for in the am and you SHOULD have picks by 7am eastern time hopefully! 👍🙏✌️


~Ninja~
 
As promised guys finished product.
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Well fir the most part I still have drill the holes for the track to be mounted but I ran out of time today and that's the easy part lol
The bolts are 1/4-20 carriage and 5/16-18 which I assuming is the common thread for just about all of the fasteners or knobs which I will make as well
All together I have about 5hrs of work on this project and half of that as playing around with the slot locations and speeds&feeds
Originally the program was going to take 1-1/2 hrs to run one part but I got it trimmed down to 24 mins so I'd say well worth the time spent!

Next time I want another one made all I'll have to do is machine material to size and run a part so next time it shouldn't take no more than about 2 hr to run 2 completed T-Tracks :)


~Ninja~
 
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