Ideas on how to build the corner piece

Pam Russell

Member
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53
Location
Holland
I've gone over the ad and photos till I believe I can build the bench sections, but I am unclear on how to go about building the corner section. I've got the sizes they would use but I would have to adjust the height to fit under the kitchen window. It's a matter of about 3 1/2 inches to the back of the bench. But the corner section, I can't quite figure out how to build it. Any ideas? Also, I want to add shelves to the back of the short bench and corner back that will be open to the kitchen.


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I REALLY HATE THIS SOFTWARE! I do not normally use 4 letter words but I have been using them like when in the service.

I wrote a lengthy reply to you. I will try to do it again. When the pics downloaded it included a pic of a receipt that was NOT marked. I tried to cancel it. The word cancel was there, I clicked it and it took all of the good pics and the text. Something like this has happened to me several times when pics I do not want to put in a post get put in anyway and there is no way to get them back out.

OK the rant is over.

Hi Pam,

It is nice to hear from you.
I think the unit is great.

I mentioned something like this...Have you considered the aesthetic effect of lowering the back. It is going to upset whats-his-names proportion rules if you do. I am sorry that I cannot think of his name. Actually I am EXTREMELY sorry because the reason I cannot remember is because my brain is a hundred years old and had some serious leakage problems; OK, I lied. It is only 89 years old.
My son Glenn would be able to supply the name to you instantly. Glenn is a moderator and has done a bazillion posts and threads. You have probably seen some. Glenn Bradley. Give him a PM or ask in a thread.

Are the rectangles at the top of the seats torched copper or brass, or chemically treated copper or brass, or stained glass, or tiles or whatevers?

If you have any members of the family or company that does not have much meat on their backs you will need cushions. DAMHIKT (Don't Ask Me How I Know That).

Years ago we had a diningroom table in that trestle type of design. It was made from trees that the King of England had marked as "Hands off." They were reserved to be masts for HMS(His Majesty's Ships). I don't know what the wood was, however it looked like knotty pine with very few knots---one knot in the entire top---sort of like a beauty mark.

I will stop now and see if I can upload the pics the way I want to. If successful, I will continue.

Some brilliant person has seen this already. The pics are already and the plumbing receipt has been removed. Someone, teach me how to do that.

The table was given to Glenn's brother many years ago. However, there is a cabinet in our guest room made of the same wood. The shelf on the side of the bathtub was made a couple years ago by Glenn and me (mainly Glenn) and was stained and aged by me. The stain is Min-Wax Jacobean. It was applied with a rag and wiped off before it became too dark. The finish was polyurethane to resist bathroom moisture. The cabinet holding the sink was done the same way, however years ago.

Is there anything you could do to the bottom of the window so that the backs would not have to be lowered? Get your very artistic, hasn't leaked yet, brain going on that subject. Think outside of the box. Example: Could a false bottom (i.e. removable false bottom) be put across the window?

I cannot think of what else I wrote (remember, I said my brains leaked out) so I will sign off now.

Enjoy,
JimB

I left the boo boo in. I thought you would get a chuckle about "guest room" that was supposed to be "guest bathroom."
 

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Maybe like so?

View attachment 81190View attachment 81191
Add the back rest of course ;-)

I can see that working, now I'm wondering why I didn't think of it. I figured if they sold a lot of these they would have to be shipped in pieces. I was racking my brain trying to figure it out. And it's so simple! Thanks.
.........

Jim: I love the vanity and the shelf too, but the vanity is a beauty. I've thought about that, I wanted it against the wall, but I didn't want to cut the trim since it's oak. I'll keep thinking about it. I thought about cutting the trim so that it would be tight up against the top of the bench and keeping the other trim where it is, but I wasn't sure how that would look. And the squares are natural slate tiles.

.........

Rob: I want it stand alone, but tight against the wall in front of the double windows in the kitchen. I checked out the video, I don't want to use plywood and I don't want a drawer, but I got very interested in his jigs. Going to have to build a couple that he used.
 
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You also might want to re-think the plywood thing. From a couple of points. Oak veneer plywood is available and likely less expensive than solid oak. Plywood edges are hidden or covered with solid wood. You will have fewer expansion and contraction issues for this applications. Disregard if your wood is free, but plan for expansion and contraction. Under a window will introduce temperature extremes. Winters and summers in Michigan will contribute with humidity extremes. Just a few thoughts.
 
+1 on rethinking the plywood idea.

Most people think construction sheathing or underlayment when you say plywood. Hardwood plywood from Home Depot etc. may have 5 plies, and is okay. Furniture grade plywood from a lumber yard is FAR better and only costs about 5-10% more. I often get furniture grade plywood with 11-15 plies in 19 mm thickness (which is full 3/4", not 23/32). Around here 3/4 inch red oak is around $40 Home Depot and $45 or so at the lumber yards. Something like walnut and cherry may get close to $100 per sheet for A1 grade, but B2 is cheaper and fine for most uses.

Plywood doesn't expand and contract with humidity, so is even more stable than solid hardwood, as well as easier construction (not having to allow for expansion/contraction). With hardwood edges (whether flush or decorative) it is very hard to tell from solid hardwood.
 
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