oneway and other goodies

Supplier shopping. Looking to buy a Wolverine Vari-grind L, a One Way live center and the big bite drive center to go in my Talon chuck, and a Beale buffing system with a few extras. Going about three hundred out of pocket with a few knick-knacks added. I can't remember who I dealt with a year ago so I'm supplier shopping. Any quality supplier have a discount or shipping deal going that stocks this stuff? Who is your go to supplier?

I tried to do a search and the search engine said something about me being too common. Pretty sure I have been insulted!

Hu
 
Been searching, getting 473 hits on the same three sites when I search. So far one supplier has everything I need but I have had issues in the past with them. I have an over $200 order in limbo there that they never shipped. Making me a little crazy, I have that hanging, a $320 check I sent a hundred miles missing in the mail for months still out there somewhere, and now another $27 check I sent off a few weeks ago that seems to have disappeared into space. After years of no issues I'm getting gunshy about mail order.

Going visit CSUSA and see what they have. Thanks!

Hu
 
If you have an outstanding order in limbo...cancel it and move on! I just had to do that with a pen part vendor...sucks, but it's my money. Just more to spend elsewhere!
 
Tool Gloat?

I feel obligated to post the picture of my new shineys after parting with this much hard cash for them. Could have got by without the Wolverine base kit but I figured if I was gonna be a bear . . . .

My homemade bowl grinding jig worked OK other than the frustration of any glue I tried to hold the wood and PVC together with eventually failing, needed that. Bearings shot in my live center, ditto. Beale buffing system will hopefully move my finishing up into the "plum purty" range. Everything else, certainly can use, might not have been musts.

Bought a seventy dollar piece of bowl gouge steel that isn't here yet, Michelsen grind , could hardly put that fancy steel in my homemade jig and fixture. Got a hundred and fifty dollars worth of glue coming too. Don't sniff the stuff when I can help it, may have to learn to eat it!

Hu

wolverinepost.jpg
 
I think you're gonna be impressed with not only the sharpening jig, but that Big Bite chuck spur. It'll surprise you when you see it in action. Great for green wood. Get it well-seated in the blank with a dead blow mallet, then mount it between the chuck and your new live center on the lathe. As you mount it onto the chuck, chances are it'll wobble around a bit as you get things squared up. It's not a problem as long as you just make sure the blades are seated in the slots and put moderately firm tailstock pressure on the blank. (And of course, you want the spur to be seated squarely in your chuck.) I've spun some pretty big chunks of wood with mine, and have never had it show any signs of coming loose or spinning into the blank.

And you're gonna love having a buffing setup. It really does take your finishes to the next level. Personally, I don't use carnauba wax because I was never happy with the way it looked for me. Instead, I hand-apply Renaissance wax (a paste wax) to the wood, let it dry, and then buff it out with a clean wheel. But that's just personal preference. A lot of folks get good results with carnauba wax.
 
I think you're gonna be impressed with not only the sharpening jig, but that Big Bite chuck spur. It'll surprise you when you see it in action. Great for green wood. Get it well-seated in the blank with a dead blow mallet, then mount it between the chuck and your new live center on the lathe. As you mount it onto the chuck, chances are it'll wobble around a bit as you get things squared up. It's not a problem as long as you just make sure the blades are seated in the slots and put moderately firm tailstock pressure on the blank. (And of course, you want the spur to be seated squarely in your chuck.) I've spun some pretty big chunks of wood with mine, and have never had it show any signs of coming loose or spinning into the blank.

And you're gonna love having a buffing setup. It really does take your finishes to the next level. Personally, I don't use carnauba wax because I was never happy with the way it looked for me. Instead, I hand-apply Renaissance wax (a paste wax) to the wood, let it dry, and then buff it out with a clean wheel. But that's just personal preference. A lot of folks get good results with carnauba wax.


Vaughn,

Renaissance wax is on the list of things I want to try. It is a little pricey but in the overall scheme of things not too bad. I find a little heat to be the ticket with carnauba, used it on pool cues. Get it on there and spin the piece while using a heat gun then go to friction. A very inexpensive old wax that has a fairly similar list of ingredients to Renaissance if I remember correctly is Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax. A big tub of it is around ten dollars at the local Ace hardware. They usually don't know they sell it until they look in the catalog. Takes about a week to come in. Order a palm sized bottle of LockEase while you are making them order. About the same price, miracle lube for a lot of things, great for guns and gun bores, even works on locks!

Haven't tried any of my toys yet, much appreciate the Big Bite review. I have gotten pretty good at boring holes into my large blanks with my small drive center primarily designed for spindles. I usually use the screw chuck or faceplate to start things because of that but it will be nice to usually leave the chuck on and just spin with the Big Bite drive center. I figure I have about three times the cost of the lathe in other things to turn now, should be getting close to functional!

Hu
 
The price of Ren Wax isn't bad when you average it out, since it lasts so long. I'm about 2/3 of the way through the first tin of it I ever bought...about 8 or 9 years ago. The thing I like about it over carnauba is that is shows no fingerprints and resists moisture better. I've heard good things about Butcher's Wax, too, but I think there's a reason a lot of museums use Ren Wax.
 
The price of Ren Wax isn't bad when you average it out, since it lasts so long. I'm about 2/3 of the way through the first tin of it I ever bought...about 8 or 9 years ago. The thing I like about it over carnauba is that is shows no fingerprints and resists moisture better. I've heard good things about Butcher's Wax, too, but I think there's a reason a lot of museums use Ren Wax.

The reason the museums use Renaissance is that it is a much cooler name for the museum to be using. I mean the couth factor is about ten to one! "Renaissance!" vs "Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax???" :D :D :D

All seriousness aside I do find it interesting that Renaissance and Butcher's use some of the same ingredients that people generally turn their noses up at in cheap waxes to go on wood and furniture. Just checked my tub, according to the label, aside from other things Butcher's is used in Boston's finest homes! I wouldn't know about that, I have been banned in Boston, seven states, and the District of Columbia. Worse, I'm known to the state of California to cause cancer. It ain't easy being me! :rolleyes:

(in case there is any doubt, it's raining and I can't go outside and play with any of my new toys.)

Hu
 
Haven't tried any of my toys yet, much appreciate the Big Bite review. I have gotten pretty good at boring holes into my large blanks with my small drive center primarily designed for spindles.

Hmm... I see that that works with my SuperNova2 chuck as well (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?29232-Damage-Inside-Morse-Taper-2/page2) - verrrryyy nice... I've had a few green blanks that ended up having the center screw a little bit further into them than I really was happy about. This looks like a real smart solution.

Do you guys oil under the wax usually or not? I've found that the ren wax was a bit more "clear" whereas good old Johnsons has a bit of yellow to it so I can do Johnsons in one pass whereas it seemed to look better with the ren wax if I oiled first (let dry..) and then applied the wax. For show objects this isn't a really big deal but for quick functional items its lead me to use the carnuba more (in progress on a couple dozen "nostepinne"s which are primitive ball winders as gifts for one of lomls yarn spinning deals - this is a quick bang-em-out project cause I'm on a tight schedule so the multiple steps isn't appealing :D).
 
Hmm... I see that that works with my SuperNova2 chuck as well (http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?29232-Damage-Inside-Morse-Taper-2/page2) - verrrryyy nice... I've had a few green blanks that ended up having the center screw a little bit further into them than I really was happy about. This looks like a real smart solution.

Do you guys oil under the wax usually or not? I've found that the ren wax was a bit more "clear" whereas good old Johnsons has a bit of yellow to it so I can do Johnsons in one pass whereas it seemed to look better with the ren wax if I oiled first (let dry..) and then applied the wax. For show objects this isn't a really big deal but for quick functional items its lead me to use the carnuba more (in progress on a couple dozen "nostepinne"s which are primitive ball winders as gifts for one of lomls yarn spinning deals - this is a quick bang-em-out project cause I'm on a tight schedule so the multiple steps isn't appealing :D).



Ryan,

I'm still trying to find "my" finish so I've oiled, lacquered, or homebrew gooped, and then waxed and just waxed. Not much help to you but just to say I don't know how I want to finish yet. Most likely one more thing I overcomplicate then wind up with a little Danish Oil and wax when I get through running circles. Depends on the piece but I'm usually looking for a warm soft looking finish more into the wood than on the surface. A quick wipe on, wipe off with some of the stuff that builds up on the surface can get some protection into the wood without being shiny. I want to feel wood when I'm handling turned wood, not a plastic surface. I'm green as a gourd when it comes to wood so still very much learning about everything. Finishing hasn't been much of an issue so far. My cat has been the main customer for the few of my turnings that survive and she doesn't seem too picky about how they look as long as there is food in them.

Hu
 
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