Gee, that might leave a mark....

Stuart Ablett

Member
Messages
15,917
Location
Tokyo Japan
So I was rough turning that piece of Shii wood, and as I'd not done a lot of green wood work in a while I sort of forgot that the spray of wood chips, especially from the EWT carbide tools, goes all over the place. I really need to put a guide rail and shower curtain in.... :rolleyes:


Well my lathe took a beating, but it is used to it, lots of tannin in that wood as it turned the ways of my lathe black quickly. I turned around and saw a bunch of wood curlies on the top of my SawStop.... whoops.....


IMG_7838.JPG

this took about 15 minutes. There was a bunch of other stuff sitting on the saw top, so the pattern is varied, but man those wood chips did a number on my top..:doh:


IMG_7839.JPG



Better get right on that, I sprayed the whole thing down with WD40 and got out my old ROS and started to fix this. I did #120, #180, #220, #320, wiping it clean between grits, to make sure none of the old grit was present when I started the new grit.


IMG_7843.JPG

I used the WD40 on all the grits, as it helps in two way, IMHO, it shows me when to change the sanding disc, as the WD40 stops getting darker in color from sanding the metal and it slows down the sanding discs loading up.


main.jpg

When I was all done I wiped it again with brake Kleen then I applied the CRC 3-36 rust inhibitor.


IMG_7844.JPG

It turned out just fine, but I'm going to make some sort of a cover for the top, I don't want to be doing this again anytime soon!


Cheers!
 
Ouch. Yeah my dad used to just keep a piece of 1/4" plywood or Luan on top of his when he wasn't using it, still looks shiny to this day. Said in his un-heated shop/garage that the condensation wouldn't be able to build up on it since the plywood would absorb the moisture.
 
After many of these events I now use a healthy dose of pastewax and no more worries. Went through this winter without a rust patch. :thumb: Also use this stuff http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=50252&cat=1,43415,43440

The stuff I use the CRC 3-36 is some of the best stuff on the market, IMHO, I used to use Johnsons floor wax paste, but this stuff is better, in my experience.

My lathe ways are BLACK from the tannins in this wood, the SawStop was only rusty. I'm sure if it was not coated with the 3-36 stuff it would have been a LOT worse :eek:

In a fairly recent Fine Woodworking article the compared all the various things on the market, Paste wax, and even the T-9 Boeshield did poorly on cast iron, the CRC 3-36 was best overall, and I really like it, I even use it on my bicycle stuff now.


IMG_7850.JPG

I did not have a full sheet of 1/4" plywood, so I had to join two bits together, I used some foil tape, then I used medium CA glue edge to edge, and then another layer of foil tape on the other side.

IMG_7851.JPG

I then put a lip on the underside all the way around, this works well, the cover is held in place by it's own weight and cannot slide around.

Darren, thanks for passing along your dad's idea :thumb:

Cheers!
 
I like to keep a protective cover on all my tools that tend to have things placed on them. i like to use large cardboard sheets that I remove from cardboard boxes that contain large items like TVs, etc. These also "breath" (so-to-speak) in that they don't trap moisture on the table surface. These, combined with Johnson's Paste Wax, work well. The cardboard sheets also work well as "lay-downs" whenever I need to crawl under the car, or whatever
 
Glad you got it cleaned up, Stu. :thumb: Like Al, I use a large sheet of cardboard as my tablesaw cover. Between that and a layer of paste wax, I've had no rust issues. (Including the time I had a gallon of hydrochloric acid spill in the shop. That one caused every bit of exposed metal in my shop to rust from the fumes. My TS top was spared, because of the cardboard cover.)
 
Gee you had that great, One-Of-a-Kind look on your saw top. Then you went and sanded the swirly marks away. Do you realize that you may have destroyed a real genuine fake Picasso?

Now your SawStop looks ordinary, like the way SawStops that every one is jealous of look.

Enjoy,
JimB

I'm glad you were able to resurrect your saw.
 
Yes, CRC 3-36 is available over there, here its sold by a company called Kure.

>> Here <<

View attachment 82718

....and there are no residue or wood contamination issues that might lead to finishing problems?

You probably just spray on a light coat after you've done the restoration step, then wipe off?

Thanks!

And, it looks like the CRC products are as close as the auto supply store here.
 
....and there are no residue or wood contamination issues that might lead to finishing problems?

You probably just spray on a light coat after you've done the restoration step, then wipe off?

Thanks!

And, it looks like the CRC products are as close as the auto supply store here.


According to the article in Fine Woodworking no finish problems at all, they applied all the product to wood, let it dry and then applied finish. The CRC3-36 and other did just fine, also the 3-36 felt the best, along with Moovit when directly applied to hand tools and just wiped off, no sticky or greasy residue. After I use a plane I just spay a bit on the bottom of the plane and into the mouth of the plane from the top, a quick wipe and it goes back on the shelf.

I really like it and yeah, you can get it lots of places.

Cheers!
 
According to the article in Fine Woodworking no finish problems at all, they applied all the product to wood, let it dry and then applied finish. The CRC3-36 and other did just fine, also the 3-36 felt the best, along with Moovit when directly applied to hand tools and just wiped off, no sticky or greasy residue. After I use a plane I just spay a bit on the bottom of the plane and into the mouth of the plane from the top, a quick wipe and it goes back on the shelf.

I really like it and yeah, you can get it lots of places.

Cheers!

That's a great review Stu. I had not seen that Fine Woodworking article.
Thank you.

I'm going to check it out.

Peter
 
Top