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Thread: Squaring edge of toothing plane blade

  1. #1

    Squaring edge of toothing plane blade

    I have a wooden toothing plane that has an out of square cutting edge. I'd like to square it up and sharpen it. Is there anything I should do differently than when working with a regular plane blade?

    Thanks,

    Jim

  2. #2
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    when you say toothing plane, do you mean a toothed iron for figured woods?
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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by larry merlau View Post
    when you say toothing plane, do you mean a toothed iron for figured woods?
    Yes - I want to square the edge of the toothed blade in my toothing plane.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Moore View Post
    Yes - I want to square the edge of the toothed blade in my toothing plane.
    Unless the blade is really out of square, I'd use the lateral adjustment, and just let it be canted a bit.

    Otherwise, you'll need to regrind the blade to square, then cut new teeth in it. It's not a hard job to do that, but does require some meticulous attention paid it.

    A three-cornered file will work well, but an even better choice would be a 'feather-edge' file like those sold for sharpening Japanese pull saws. It's probably going to take a couple hours to do it right. Sharpen the blade, same as with a conventional iron, then (being VERY CAREFUL not to cut yourself) cut in the new teeth. Wear gloves (preferably Kevlar) and keep bandaids handy.
    Jim D.
    Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!

  5. #5
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    Square it up and sharpen like a normal blade but only on the bevel side. Once you are happy with it, remove the burr from the teeth by digging it on a piece of hard wood a couple of times with a hammer. Does that make sense? I do it that way and it is rather easy
    Best regards,
    Toni

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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim DeLaney View Post
    Unless the blade is really out of square, I'd use the lateral adjustment, and just let it be canted a bit.

    Otherwise, you'll need to regrind the blade to square, then cut new teeth in it. It's not a hard job to do that, but does require some meticulous attention paid it.

    A three-cornered file will work well, but an even better choice would be a 'feather-edge' file like those sold for sharpening Japanese pull saws. It's probably going to take a couple hours to do it right. Sharpen the blade, same as with a conventional iron, then (being VERY CAREFUL not to cut yourself) cut in the new teeth. Wear gloves (preferably Kevlar) and keep bandaids handy.
    I'm uncertain what I would do in squaring the edge and resharpening that would cause me to need to recut new teeth...

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Toni Ciuraneta View Post
    Square it up and sharpen like a normal blade but only on the bevel side. Once you are happy with it, remove the burr from the teeth by digging it on a piece of hard wood a couple of times with a hammer. Does that make sense? I do it that way and it is rather easy
    That makes sense. I was unsure if squaring the edge would affect the teeth - and your procedure addresses that concern. Thanks.

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