Shade Structure Build

Carol Reed

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Coolidge, AZ
As I posted earlier, I am building a shade structure that will become a gazebo once the house is built. For now, it will be a place to work out of the sun.

Here is the drawing. There will be some tweaks along the way, but essentially it will be like this. Timber framing joinery is planned as this structure must be disassembled and then reassembled later.

shade.jpg

Once I had the lumber rack on the truck (sans paint - too windy), it was time to make a lumber run. I can tell you those 16' 4x4's are heavy!

1st lumber off the rack.jpg

Timber framing joinery is mortise and tenon for the most part. Here is my test tenon on a scrap piece of 4x4. Haven't done any woodworking in a coon's age. Haven't done any timber framing in 20 years or more. This is fun.

Test Tenon.jpg

Then the mortise. I bored 4 1" holes for the 2" square tenon.

Start Mortise.jpg

And here is the test fit. The post will also be housed a 1/2" deep. I'll do that when the post fits. This was a test to make sure I had the tools I needed (being as most of my tools are in two zip codes.) and that my process was workable without being unnecessarily tedious. The joint is tight for now, but the wood is pretty green. I am happy that the concept has once again been proven and I have a process for each of the 4 vertical posts. Each fit will be specially trimmed until it slips together like a velvet glove.

Close enough.jpg

Ahhhh... this was fun. Think I'll do some more tomorrow.

AND, there was a reward for my efforts. The first raspberry of the summer.

1st raspberry.jpg
 

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You certainly do not mess around. That's not just a shade structure, that will be an artistic wooden sculpture by the time you are done!
 
It may have been a long time since you've done any woodworking, but it sure looks like you still know what you're doing. ;)
 
how did you cut the tenon?(it looks like on the tablesaw but the marks can be from something else. Handsaw?)

those 16 footers, make sure you pop a few advil before you start. back breakers for sure.
 
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The shoulders of the tenon were cut on the SCMS against a stop to the proper depth. Then I used a hand saw to cut the cheeks, but today I am going to try my jigsaw. I got some blades that are long enough. It just occurred to me that I need to reverse the order. Cheeks first, then the shoulders. Otherwise the saw would not a reference surface. Thanks for asking the question, Allen. If I have to articulate the answer it means I have to put my brain in gear. Not a bad thing to do! :rolleyes:
 
That's going to be a very attractive structure Carol.
I may have missed it, but how will it be anchored at it's final location. Will the posts be set in the ground and, if so, how would you establish level for your top joinery? Or, more likely I suppose, will it sit on sills that are laid level on a compacted gravel bed? If that's the case, anchoring for wind stress (frost heaving not being an issue there) would be a consideration.
Developing timber framing skills is on my bucket list, so I'm watching with great interest.

Remember Family Guy's advice: lift with your back, in a sudden, twisting motion :D:D

Keep the pics coming!

Peter
 
The four corners will be leveled at their respective spots. The post will sit in a bed of mastic in post anchors driven into the ground at those spots.

post anchor.jpg

Haven't decided on the 'bed' under the structure yet. Saw some inlaid brick at a shopping center the other day I sort of liked. But that decision is a long ways away!

brick_floor01.jpg
 
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