You did very well, that saw is in much better condition than mine. Those knobs usually break because someone doesn't release the clamp before they pull the knob. That saw is a 1030K, and one of the better ones, the earlier 1030's were round arm saws...the "K" was added to the square arm models. . You can date it by looking at the serial number on the motor. The first 2 digits will be the year, the second 2 the month of
motor manufacturer, which should be about the age of the saw unless the motor was swapped out. Curious to me is that blade guard, the discharge is at the operator end, most of this model I've seen have the discharge on the column side. If you tune that saw, you'll find it as accurate as any miter saw, and really able to earn it's keep in the shop. I have a couple of pdf files written by a Dewalt guru named Roger hill. One if a cliff-notes rebuild article which you might not need but has some good info. The second is a tuning approach that gets it dead nuts, and is the ones I've used for 3 different saws. They use a 925 as an example, though they apply to any Dewalt; I'd be glad to e mail them to you if you want to PM me your address. The last tidbit is that if that motor coasts a long time after being turned off (with a blade, more than 30 seconds or so) it probably needs bearings. It's a fairly easy job, and the bearings run about $20. BTW, if you decide that saw isn't for you, I might be persuaded to drive up there to take it off your hands!
Edit in: I have a second 1030K I tried to save but couldn't (motor was damaged). Anyway, I'm parting it out (for the postage) and happen to have a BLACK knob from the swivel lock. It's yours if you want it.