Tools, after the Grinder - Then What?

Hi All,

My son who knows nothing about turning is trying to help me with my tool sharpening. As a matter of fact, he just pushed me out of the way and is now typing this . . .

For those of you who use a Wolverine or shop made version thereof, once you do this:

View attachment 83835

or this:

View attachment 83836

What is your next step to sharpen and then hone the tool?

Dad has a Jet clone of the Tormek. The geometry of the tool holders for the Jet is different than that of the Wolverine (or shop made version thereof).

View attachment 83837 . View attachment 83838

So speak oh vault of knowledge . . . what do-est thou?
 
I have been using a cloth wheel loaded with polishing compound. It works well, but I've just gone to a hard felt wheel loaded with polishing compound. It also seems to work well. For my skew I use my waterstones.

I'd be interested to know what angles and dimensions you used to make those jigsfor different tools.
 
Honing is hit and miss for many. Well worth it on a skew, but as Dale Nish once said..."see that burr on this gouge?" He made one pass on a bowl blank..."Now it's gone." Being one of the best turners in the world...that got my attention. If you use the angle guide from Tormek (the proper term escapes me at the moment) you can duplicate the angle from the Wolverine set-up on the Grizzly.
 
For me, there is no next step. After the Wolverine, the tool is ready to cut. I use a diamond card hone to refresh the edge in between sharpenings.
 
I'll echo Jim and Ted...although I hone my skews, I've not seen a noticeable improvement in the performance when honing a gouge. As for using the dry grinder vs. using the wet...I'd say pick one, but not both. Either will work fine, but there's no real benefit from using both. As you noticed, the jig geometry does not match up exactly, and it never really will. The vast majority of turners do just fine grinding their gouges with a 120 grit dry wheel. I prefer using my 400 grit wet wheel, but that's mostly because my Tormek jig is easier to set up and the wet grinding removes minimal steel. But if you were to hand me two gouges - one sharpened on a 120 grit dry wheel and the other sharpened on a 400 grit wet wheel - I doubt I could tell one from the other, especially after cutting for a minute or two.

And this applies to both wet and dry wood, in my opinion. ;-)
 
thanks Ted. Is this true when turning dry hardwoods?

For me - yep, although you might have to go back to the grinder a smidge more often than you would with green wood. The one exception is the skew and that's largely because I don't really like the shape of it off of the grinder, the hollow grind imho makes it "catchier" and so a somewhat flatter or even rounder edge is a bit more forgiving so I use a stone for that.

That last shot of the gouge tip - is that a spindle detail gouge? if so.. I guess its ok, otoh if its a bowl gouge you'll want to "swing" it side to side more so it has more "wings" and a somewhat rounder nose or it'll be a bit funny to use.
 
I'll echo Jim and Ted...although I hone my skews, I've not seen a noticeable improvement in the performance when honing a gouge. As for using the dry grinder vs. using the wet...I'd say pick one, but not both. Either will work fine, but there's no real benefit from using both. As you noticed, the jig geometry does not match up exactly, and it never really will. The vast majority of turners do just fine grinding their gouges with a 120 grit dry wheel. I prefer using my 400 grit wet wheel, but that's mostly because my Tormek jig is easier to set up and the wet grinding removes minimal steel. But if you were to hand me two gouges - one sharpened on a 120 grit dry wheel and the other sharpened on a 400 grit wet wheel - I doubt I could tell one from the other, especially after cutting for a minute or two.

And this applies to both wet and dry wood, in my opinion. ;-)

On another forum, I read how they recommend the use of the dry grinder, if changing profiles/making a custom gouge, and then finishing it off with the Tormek. This was simply for speed and making a wheel last.
That said, multiple things I have read said the Tormek jigs work on the Jet. I know they work on the Grizzly (dad has that), and I have the Tormek (share the jigs). Tormek does have a jig to use their jigs on a dry grinder (parts of that came with my system).
 
thanks Ted. Is this true when turning dry hardwoods?
As others have said, wet or dry wood doesn't make much difference. I also will hone my skews with the fine diamond card, but I don't go crazy with it.

For me - yep, although you might have to go back to the grinder a smidge more often than you would with green wood. The one exception is the skew and that's largely because I don't really like the shape of it off of the grinder, the hollow grind imho makes it "catchier" and so a somewhat flatter or even rounder edge is a bit more forgiving so I use a stone for that.

That last shot of the gouge tip - is that a spindle detail gouge? if so.. I guess its ok, otoh if its a bowl gouge you'll want to "swing" it side to side more so it has more "wings" and a somewhat rounder nose or it'll be a bit funny to use.
I didn't notice the profile on that last photo and agree it seems to want a little more 'wing', even for a spindle gouge.
 
On another forum, I read how they recommend the use of the dry grinder, if changing profiles/making a custom gouge, and then finishing it off with the Tormek. This was simply for speed and making a wheel last.
That said, multiple things I have read said the Tormek jigs work on the Jet. I know they work on the Grizzly (dad has that), and I have the Tormek (share the jigs). Tormek does have a jig to use their jigs on a dry grinder (parts of that came with my system).

I agree about using the dry grinder for changing profiles or other cases where you need to remove more than just a little metal. I also have the pieces to use the Tormek jigs on my dry grinder, but still haven't gotten around to building the proper base and getting the other parts set up.
 
I have been using a cloth wheel loaded with polishing compound. It works well, but I've just gone to a hard felt wheel loaded with polishing compound. It also seems to work well. For my skew I use my waterstones.

I'd be interested to know what angles and dimensions you used to make those jigsfor different tools.

Just to be clear, I did mean "after the grinder!" I'm using a 80grit white wheel, but I'm saving up for a 120 grit.
 
There is only one Tormek jig that won't swap to the Grizzly...but it was so obscure....I forgot what it was! I had the Griz for years and was offered a Tormek new in the box for a stupid low price so it's in the shop now. Profile changing isn't something I do anymore; having accumulated enough gouges over the years...I have one in every profile I use.
 
I have a Tormek but the time to get the wheel soaked before use was a pain, since I turn intermittently. I got the wolverine jig and now use it exclusively. Tormek will be for sale as soon as I find time to clean it up.

Skews are an exception, which I sharpen on my diamond plates like regular chisels.

No desire to keep both.
 
Top