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You will probably get other ways to re-mount this, but here's my idea. I would mount my chuck in the headstock and insert a jam chuck of some kind. Another smaller roughed out bowl would work. Place your damaged rough out over the smaller bowl, bring up the tailstock with the point of your dead center on the center point of your recess, put enough pressure on it to hold it and re-sculpt the bottom including a new recess. When finished, loosen the tailstock and cut the small nub under the dead center off with a flexible saw. With regard to your recess, try and make your recess or tennon just slightly larger than the closed diameter of the jaw set you are using. The closer the recess/tennon is to the closed diameter of your jaws the more bearing surface the jaws will have on the piece and the better the jaws will hold. Also, after you make your new recess give the inside edge of the recess a liberal soaking of thin CA glue. It will harden the fibers in the area and help keep the wood from tearing. Try and keep the glue inside the recess because if it runs it can leave 'stain' marks that are hard to sand off. You can use blue painters tape to help control it.
I always use roughing out a bowl as an opportunity to practice some finishing cuts. I notice a lot of tear out in the end grain sapwood. If the wood is truly green, the sapwood should be turnable and not too punky. If the log was down for a while the sapwood deteriorates fast, while walnut heartwood will be workable for years. I suggest you look up some YouTube videos demonstrating shear scraping with the bowl gouge (you can shear scrape with the easy rougher too, but it's more prone to catch because of the small cutter) and use re-sculpting the bottom of this piece for some shear scraping practice. If that's really green sapwood, you should be able to shear scrape it smooth as a baby's buns and it will be less work when you finish the piece.
You will probably get other ways to re-mount this, but here's my idea. I would mount my chuck in the headstock and insert a jam chuck of some kind. Another smaller roughed out bowl would work. Place your damaged rough out over the smaller bowl, bring up the tailstock with the point of your dead center on the center point of your recess, put enough pressure on it to hold it and re-sculpt the bottom including a new recess. When finished, loosen the tailstock and cut the small nub under the dead center off with a flexible saw. With regard to your recess, try and make your recess or tennon just slightly larger than the closed diameter of the jaw set you are using. The closer the recess/tennon is to the closed diameter of your jaws the more bearing surface the jaws will have on the piece and the better the jaws will hold. Also, after you make your new recess give the inside edge of the recess a liberal soaking of thin CA glue. It will harden the fibers in the area and help keep the wood from tearing. Try and keep the glue inside the recess because if it runs it can leave 'stain' marks that are hard to sand off. You can use blue painters tape to help control it.
I always use roughing out a bowl as an opportunity to practice some finishing cuts. I notice a lot of tear out in the end grain sapwood. If the wood is truly green, the sapwood should be turnable and not too punky. If the log was down for a while the sapwood deteriorates fast, while walnut heartwood will be workable for years. I suggest you look up some YouTube videos demonstrating shear scraping with the bowl gouge (you can shear scrape with the easy rougher too, but it's more prone to catch because of the small cutter) and use re-sculpting the bottom of this piece for some shear scraping practice. If that's really green sapwood, you should be able to shear scrape it smooth as a baby's buns and it will be less work when you finish the piece.