Waterlox?

Rich Soby

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Messages
1,553
Location
Cape Cod, Ma.
Question here. I have a client that has hired me to add a pair of leaf extensions to her dining table. The table is tiger maple with an amber dye and the top coat has me perplexed. It doesn't look like lacquer or varnish but more of a hand rubbed finish. BUT there is some sort of film but very very slight.
Im wondering if it was an accumulation of multiple coats of oil such as waterlox.

Unfortunately there is no "inconspicuous" place I can employ the usual methods of testing a finish as this "top coat" is only on the top and sides of the table not on the underside.
She told me that she wasn't looking for a perfect match as she would most likely be using a table cloth when the leaves are on, but.... I would much rather give her a product that looks like its always been there.

Having never used waterlox before and only looking at the pictures on their website it appears the closest to what she has. But pictures are known to lie...

Also the table is 15 years old and... unfortunately the gentleman that made it has closed his doors so I cant find him to ask....


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If you have Mag on hand. Are you going to use the water dye stain. It's the best Ive used. If so. one that maple you will need to sand a number of times before applying the dye., That maple will fur up on ya. So sand , take a damp reg and wipe the table , dry it with a hair dryer and repeat 3or 4 time till the furring is down. Then add the dye stand and then 2 coats of sealer before using 320 or 400 sand paper. Sometime if I take it far enough I can use 600, Hope that helps.
 
Dave is the man for matching.

You seem to be concerned by the final finish - the pictures look like a thin layer of lacquer rubbed out. I routinely apply gloss lacquer, and then rub it out to a thin film layer, that looks almost like an oiled finish. Rubbing to me means machine sanding with a very fine grit (400 is coarse, normally get to 800 or as high as 1500 to get the sheen I want.)

I switched from Nitro (solvent lacquer) to Target 6000 (water base acrylic lacquer) and get the same appearance, and a more durable finish. If I want a super durable finish I do the same with Target 9300 polycarbonate finish
 
If the old finish has an amber tone to it. I usually will take Antique Oak stain and Green. mix 70/30 and add to the finish. Testing for tone is advisable. This would be done with one light coat before the finial coat.
 
Thanks guys,
I had been planning to use transtint with DA but if there is a better solution Im all ears.
The other issue and its not that easy to see in the pics is that the table is hand scraped. I can probably tighten the grain up with some hand sanding but don't want to take away from that look.
Charlie, does the target lacquer amber up when it cures or does it remain water clear? For safety sake I would prefer to use wb as I have to spray inside now and both the furnace and waterheater have active pilots going.. don't want anything to go boom lol

what I have on hand for transtint
mission brown
medium brown
dark walnut
orange
vintage maple
blue
and
Bordeaux
 
Mission brown and a bit of orange may get you In the area. You can always use brushing lacquer. Sanding between coats taking it up to 2000 grit, (water sanding) them buffing. Boom is not good !
 
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Charlie, does the target lacquer amber up when it cures or does it remain water clear? ...

Rich, the EM6000 starts white and dries clear. I have never considered it to have any amber, and it definitely does not "amber up" over time.

The EM1000 starts clear and stays clear. The EM2000 interior/exterior varnish does have a distinctive amber tone. The EM8000 cv has a very slight (to my eye) amber - but the color is stable. I haven't used EM9000 interior polyurethane. I love EM9300 interior exterior clear - but I found a zinger on a full sun outdoor project. The finish remained stable but the dye that I added as a toner faded, so it now looks like EM9300 on bare wood.
 
Thanks Charlie,
Yeah I use the EM8000cv with the catalyst all the time. Love it! I put the first 2 coats on gloss then add the flattening agent to the last coat to dull it a little less than satin. Makes a great look and does amber as it cures.
That's a bummer that the Lacquer doesn't do the same although a drop or two of dye would accomplish that on interior apps.
Exterior is a toughie as I haven't seen too many dyes on the market that are uv stable.
Well I picked up the curly maple yesterday going to play around a bit with some finishes this week as I have time and see what I can come up with for samples.
 
I notice that you had a question about Waterlox. While I can't address all the other info that's here, I have used original formula Waterlox. It's pricey and, in my opinion, worth every penny & more. I figure it's a proprietary mix containing BLO, varnish, maybe tung oil & a thinner like mineral spirits. While I've mixed my own versions of this type of hybrid mix, Waterlox is my favorite finish. It wipes on easily, dries quickly, re-coats nicely & has a warm tone similar to BLO. I tried to attach a pic of a cherry & ash cradle finished with it. No stain was used. (Haven't been here for a while & don't know if I did that right) We'll see when I click "post". crad 4.jpg
 
If the old finish has an amber tone to it. I usually will take Antique Oak stain and Green. mix 70/30 and add to the finish. Testing for tone is advisable. This would be done with one light coat before the finial coat.

dave, i was looking today at the charts and didnt find antique oak on behlens or transtint.. and on behlens they call there green drk green but transtint has a lighter green ..still am trying to get the basics on hand so i can have better luck in matching color. for others on here what would your basic kit be in the behlen line and the transtint line? if i remember correctly you use behlens mostly right?
 
I notice that you had a question about Waterlox. While I can't address all the other info that's here, I have used original formula Waterlox. It's pricey and, in my opinion, worth every penny & more. I figure it's a proprietary mix containing BLO, varnish, maybe tung oil & a thinner like mineral spirits. While I've mixed my own versions of this type of hybrid mix, Waterlox is my favorite finish. It wipes on easily, dries quickly, re-coats nicely & has a warm tone similar to BLO. I tried to attach a pic of a cherry & ash cradle finished with it. No stain was used. (Haven't been here for a while & don't know if I did that right) We'll see when I click "post". View attachment 89512

I've never used Waterlox and know nothing about it, but a couple of years back there was an arts and craft store in Lenoir City that had a vendor that turned bathroom sinks from wood.... they were segmented, complete with drain in the bottoms... beautiful things... the store is long gone, but when I asked what his finish was, I was told it was Waterlox...
 
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