G&G Inspired Wall Cabinet

allen levine · Jan 2, 2015

looks very close to hondorian mahogany.

John Daugherty · Jan 2, 2015

I really like that beaded ship-lap, and the way you are handling attaching it to the case.

glenn bradley · Jan 11, 2015

I figured I better post something to show that I have made any progress on this at all. I botched a couple of parts and with my schedule that meant I didn't get caught up till just now. I am using bridle joints at the corners of the door frame. I use a wheel gauge to mark the depth and use the tenon jig to cut the slots and cheeks. The door is over-size and will be trimmed down once I have the dividers mortised in.

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The miter bar on my tenonning jig has never been the greatest. After fouling a couple parts and losing so much time, I took a bit of time to make a new bar out of some straight grained hickory. Works much better ;-)

larry merlau · Jan 12, 2015

glenn that offset mortise gauge is interesting concept to keep it in place! also on your ship lap bak, you running those in a grove at the top and bottom plus sides to hold in position?

glenn bradley · Jan 12, 2015

larry merlau said:
glenn that offset mortise gauge is interesting concept to keep it in place! also on your ship lap bak, you running those in a grove at the top and bottom plus sides to hold in position?

The gauge is a Lee Valley Anniversary version that they offered at a very reasonable price once upon a time. I find I go to this one more than my graduated one for the reason you state as well as the grip being a bit more controllable for me. The back panels will be captured in a groove at the top and sides. they will terminate and be tacked at the bottom "shelf" and at the top with a single pin in each slat to allow movement. Similar to how a sliding-from-the-back drawer bottom goes in.

larry merlau · Jan 12, 2015

glenn bradley said:
The gauge is a Lee Valley Anniversary version that they offered at a very reasonable price once upon a time. I find I go to this one more than my graduated one for the reason you state as well as the grip being a bit more controllable for me. The back panels will be captured in a groove at the top and sides. they will terminate and be tacked at the bottom "shelf" and at the top with a single pin in each slat to allow movement. Similar to how a sliding-from-the-back drawer bottom goes in.

so no capture at the bottom then just pinned in place?

glenn bradley · Jan 14, 2015

larry merlau said:
so no capture at the bottom then just pinned in place?

Correct, although on larger backs I capture all around. Usually by having a deeper groove on the top so that the slats slide up into this groove far enough to swing in and drop into a shallower groove at the bottom.

Work has been IN--SANE!!! My day job is really cutting into my shop time

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I finally got the window 'dividers' shaped and formed to near finished. I cannot fit them until the door frame is glued up so its time for that. I learned a long time ago from Gary Rogowski to avoid the sweaty palms and heart palpitations that can come from an ill planned glue up. Do a couple of dry runs. Lay out your clamps and anything else you will need so that they are right where you expect them to be.

Apply glue and just re-do what you have already done a couple of times without glue.

Everybody happy-happy.

glenn bradley · Jan 16, 2015

I'm probably putting you people to sleep with all these little bitty steps of progress. I am definitely just getting an hour here or there lately; quite frustrating. Tomorrow should be a good catch-up day . :clap:

I route out the rabbet for the glass on the router table. Speaking of rabbets and bearings and all that (were we really?). I don't know how you all keep your bearings under control but the inexpensive cable key rings from Lee Valley do a great job on ones that overflow the 'keeper shafts'.

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The cloud-lift detail leaves me some material to remove afterward. I free hand route the bulk of this waste out with a 1/4" spiral bit and then chisel the last of it.

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glenn bradley · Jan 19, 2015

Catch-up Day

Having the day off work for the holiday let me catch up a bit. I tape the door in place and rough in the shelves to get a look at some proportions. This is a modified build of some pieces that I have made before. Those pieces had the shelves split the center of the cloud-lift trim detail. This one has shelves scaled to hold CD’s so I will have to deal with this somehow (possibly by ignoring it).

I cut the trim to over-long and then shoot to fit.

This shows the horizontal trim locations. I use setup blocks to position the vertical trim positions. I use a striking knife to mark the positions as well as provide me a reference groove to register the chisel in.

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I free hand the bulk of the spoil out of the mortise and chisel it to fit the trim. I hog out the waste for the rabbets and dados that will allow the trim to interlock via a FTG blade on the tablesaw and again, trim to fit with chisels.

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cont'd

glenn bradley · Jan 19, 2015

Here's the vertical trim fitted in showing the slight step-back from the front plane of the door. I'm addicted to fooling around with elevation as a visual element :crazy:

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I use (nearly) half laps at the trim intersections and half laps to set the trim to the same plane and the recess for the glass.

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This gives me an even plane in the glass receiving area and the quirky stepped elevations I like on the front of the door.

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And here's everybody tucked in for bed ;-)

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Now I just take it all apart and ease all the edges and I can move to the glue-up.

Bob Gibson · Jan 19, 2015

Nice !!!!!!!

Gary Zimmel · Jan 19, 2015

Always a pleasure to watch your builds Glenn..

Darren Wright · Jan 19, 2015

Inspiration for sure, I've got a lot of work to do on making my mortises look that clean. :thumb:

glenn bradley · Jan 19, 2015

Thanks all. It is funny how we sometimes set goals for ourselves that we don't even know are there. I guess I really wanted all the trim in a glue-up before I quit tonight.

Because now I feel ready for bed

Ken Cook · Jan 20, 2015

Beautiful work as always :thumb:

glenn bradley · Jan 20, 2015

I have been percolating on the pull for this piece since about a week into the project. The blue post-it is me fooling with positions for it. I can almost see it in my head but, I'm still not there. I may have to make a few versions and then choose but, sometimes that is also a challenge ;-) The glass and ebony plugs are also missing along with the finish but, you get the idea.

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I'll post some more once I get settled on the pulls.

larry merlau · Jan 21, 2015

another great job glenn,, if this is to go on the wall then my vote on knob is lower position

Rennie Heuer · Jan 21, 2015

Glorious!

glenn bradley · Feb 2, 2015

I got a surprise dose of good weather today so I put the first coat of finish on the carcass. Internal areas and shelves will get shellac to avoid the long term odors associated with the oil based wiping varnish mix I whip up. This finish does not play well with enclosed environments like a cabinet with a door

. Here's some shots from different angles to try to show the chatoyancy.

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I am just a sucker for those big soft finger joints.

Oh, and a shot from the top. You'll only see it from this angle if you play professional basketball

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I will need to keep wiping it off for the rest of the evening. I'll hit the door tomorrow after work and lay the second coat on this guy.

Carol Reed · Feb 2, 2015

Really nice. Ya know, you might consider entering one of your pieces in the Design in Wood Show at the San Diego County Fair next June. Entries welcome from the entire Pacific Rim and you well give those folks a new look to recon with.

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