Display Cabinet, Oak n Glass

well today i had fun and its glenns fault again:) we have seen glenn use one of those mortis pal jigs so much that i finally gave in when he posted his thread on them and how he uses them.. so today i put mine to use..and used a new tool for the glue relief part:) now to find out he goes about gluing these up:) they do go quickly, much faster than chopping and using a table saw.

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Larry,

Just how many cans of beer have you opened with this opener???

I hope you Enjoyed them,
JimB
 
Larry,

Just how many cans of beer have you opened with this opener???

I hope you Enjoyed them,
JimB

well jim, i am not sure:) but i do remember the days when you needed to use one to open the can.. then they upgrade to pop tops then on to pull tabs.. but they all worked you made a hole and tried to empty one after another:) the glue relief worked but a saw kerf is better..
 
Great so far Larry, don't know how I missed this until now. When I was in college I had a great collection of those be, er pop tabs in chain form. Wonder if they will be valuable when I get old? Guess I don't want to know, threw them away anyway. Do you have a projected delivery date? Do you bring the customer in and do a "reveal" like Rick on the restoration show???
 
I like the process you used for the quarter round molding. Well done. :thumb: I've also started to consider getting rid of my mortiser. Although I like the ability to drill square holes easily, I cut so few mortises that I find it hard to justify the storage space for the machine.

I remember the cans that needed can openers glue relief tools, but that was before my beer-drinking days. I do seem to recall some soda cans needing one, though. Do you remember the pushbutton can tops?

SodaPepsi3.jpg
 
jonathan, the client gets it when its done, they dragged there heels on the start so i have other things that need doing in between so i share time on this with the other duties.. and vaughn, yes i do i mentioned the pop tops. which were what you showed us.. do you remember generic beer? it was a white can with the word beer on it.. that was it and you could get it inmost grocery stores before it was normal to get alcohol in them.. i am trying for the end of the month jonathan but not going to push it i need to order glass once i get the doors built..
 
well today i had fun and its glenns fault again:) we have seen glenn use one of those mortis pal jigs so much that i finally gave in when he posted his thread on them and how he uses them.. so today i put mine to use..and used a new tool for the glue relief part:) now to find out he goes about gluing these up:) they do go quickly, much faster than chopping and using a table saw.

It is a slick little tool and I do use it quite a bit. Looks like you've got the hand of it right off Larry. I love the can-opener tenon stock grooving tool :thumb:
 
well i got some more done on this but hit a snag,, i knew i was going to possibly have trouble with racking and it not bad now with just dry fit and some screws but i am looking to get some more rack strength.. i have the bottom area where i can use some wood triangles to gain some and not be seen but metal would be less obtrusive if i could find something, looked in lee vally and woodworkers hardware.. in the door hole at the top is my main area of wanting more and i have got the top to help with it and i dont have the top anchored yet.. so if any one has some ideas for this let me know..
 
well i got some more done on this but hit a snag,, i knew i was going to possibly have trouble with racking and it not bad now with just dry fit and some screws but i am looking to get some more rack strength.. i have the bottom area where i can use some wood triangles to gain some and not be seen but metal would be less obtrusive if i could find something, looked in lee vally and woodworkers hardware.. in the door hole at the top is my main area of wanting more and i have got the top to help with it and i dont have the top anchored yet.. so if any one has some ideas for this let me know..

I would use some aluminum profile, they tend to be quite stiff despite being small, if is it adding rigidity what you want. Dunno...
 
well its time for a update, other things have interrupted this build and so its not continous:( but here are some pics of what i have done since last time..:)
frame jig.jpgframe rabbet.jpgframes-trim-rt.jpg
trimmed to size and rabbeted frames
bottom frame.jpgtop frame.jpglap joint.jpglayout lines.jpgtop frame-space.jpgrack test.jpg,
the top and bottom frames are dry fit with screws, which will help with glue up later. used a lap joint on the top frame for maximum strength for top attachment, layout lines help a lot for positioning. also used a scrap piece of laminate to get a small space to help draw the top tight to the top of the frnt and back frames. also once everything is in place it allowed me to check rack strength some. glueing will increase the rack strength and the top attachment as well, but i have decided that i need more than what i see now.. continued below
 

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after the above was done i got to making the doors which are similar to the frnt and back frames.. but we need to dry fit all parts to check for mistakes in part alignment which i had and was able to adjust the mortise placement to make it come together properly..
doors-dry fix.jpgdry fit-marks.jpgdoors-angle.jpgcorner marking -2.jpgcorner marking.jpgdoors-clamped.jpg
i used the 6" ruler to mark the corners for the rabbets in the frt and back frames and the doors will be done the same way, its nice to have one of the protractors for finding the angle of the leg portion and transferring it to the doors and main framework. also it wise to have the tools handy when glueing up a frme just in case you need to adjust them and dont have to look for what you need elsewhere. so tomorrow i will rabbet again the doors and go on to the next part of this build..
 
well, no pics today but got the doors ready for glass, so will take them in tomorrow for measuring by the glass company.. they wanted to measure them rathr than rely on my numbers.. so just for grins i checked them and was off on door by a whopping 1/16th of inch in length compared to the other one, the widths were the same:) so made some bevel cuts on the face side to help in cleaning and to give them something other than just square corners. will get a picture of them prior to assembly and will drop them on here later.. its getting closer and am looking forward to it being done..the next one if there is one will be done differently..
 
Time for framework

well after getting the rabbets done on the main frames and the door frames
it was time to start gluing the frame together, no going back now:)
and as you can see you do need alot of clamps and glenn's corner braces:)

1aframework glueup.jpg

so it was time to start thinking about the removable shelves in this cabinet, needed to get some strength yet not look to heavy, thought about glass.
but i needed to look at rack strength and i could use a center WOOD shelf to help in that if needed. so i came up with a idea and made up a sample shelf to see how it would go
1shelf edge trim.jpg2flush fit.jpg3corner look.jpg4finish corner look.jpg5bottom look.jpg6shelves-3.jpg

after the shelves were made, it was time to get pin hole jig ready and do a practice run with todays drill, the old one had died and the new one has a different feel.
so good thing we have scrap wood to check things out as you can see my first hole wasnt right, so made the change and got it right :)
7shelf pin trial.jpg8not right.jpg9done right.jpg
Continued..............
 
well i got pin hole jig ready and it was time to mark the pin hole position, did some calculations and marked them out.
And WROTE them down so i didnt have to remeasure or drill wrong position.

10pin mark wood.jpg11mark dimension.jpg12mark position note.jpg

when it came time to use the jig on this cabinet the position was different than what the jig was made to do multiples of.
so i took the single hole position and used a marking gauge to make line up marks so i could position right on target to get the holes in the right position on all four corners..
its the little things that take time but are well worth the time it takes.. as are the little tools like a marking gauge .. it is invaluable for a lot of things..

13single pin position lines.jpg14pin line 2.jpg15pin line 3.jpg16pin mark 4.jpg17pin lineup 5.jpg

so here is the last of todays work and the shelves all fit and dont rock:)

18shelves fit.jpg
 
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