"Easiest Drawers Ever"

His joint looks like it would be much stronger than the simple folding miter I have seen used similarly. Very innovative and kudos to that guy for a clever spin. :thumb:. Rockler, Fast-Cap and others promote these types of "inventions" although I don't know the details of interacting with them. I love watching clever people :).
 
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Ingenuity at its finest, only thing i ask is whats the difference between what he is doing and one of those moulding discs that we can put in a table saw.
It would surely only take a different profile cutter as he has designed.
I hope he finds someone to help launch it as a product. Not sure how big the market would be.
Would like to hear from some pros as to whether they would change their ways if they were able to get the blade with his profile.

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whats the difference between what he is doing and one of those moulding discs that we can put in a table saw.

That's a great question. If you are talking about something like this cutter head my guess would be the dept of cut? I'd imagine doing a nearly full 3/4" cut might be a little much to ask of one of these molding cutters.
 
But if you were doing multiple cuts on a single board like he was so you could just 'fold up' the drawer, well, the multiple passes would be problematic resetting the fence and the height of the molder head.

But if the molder head COULD take a full 3/4" pass, it would be way easier to just have a few knives custom ground. I just don't know how scary those molder heads are to use though.

Having a custom dado head blade like that would take a bit of the pucker factor out of the whole equation.
 
And if you weren't going to do the fold up drawer thing, well, wouldn't a regular drawer lock bit in the router table be just as simple as the molder head?
 
What thickness drawer bottoms do you all use?

I realize your going to use thicker ones for things like a appliance drawer, but to me, this seems like something that is going to make a lot of drawers more (maybe too) shallow?
And for SHOP (not fine) cabinets, I can just as easily use pocket screws and glue, about as quick.

Fair idea, but I see as much downfall with it as interest.
 
What thickness drawer bottoms do you all use?

I realize your going to use thicker ones for things like a appliance drawer, but to me, this seems like something that is going to make a lot of drawers more (maybe too) shallow?
And for SHOP (not fine) cabinets, I can just as easily use pocket screws and glue, about as quick.

Fair idea, but I see as much downfall with it as interest.
You could use this method to just make the sides by cutting a sheet of plywood into whatever width you want the height of you drawers to be. Then cut a, say for example, 1/4" inch groove for a 1/4" base down the length. You would then have to figure out at what lengths to crosscut the piece with the special saw blade. All you would do then is fold your sides up with the base, glue and clamp. It might be more complicated than it needs to, but it would still work.
 
I don't think he has done a sufficient test... an eccentric vibration with the drill is very gently... the force applied is sinusoidal (builds gradually as the eccentric weight rotates). The 200 pound load (standing on the side) is just 200 pounds, not the "impulse" load of a drawer slamming. That is why a 1 pound hammer pounding on a joint is more likely to break it than 200 pounds standing on it.

There is no interlocking wood, as we have learned is necessary over the years. A biscuit or domino would be better than a clever shaped glue joint (clever to give more glue surface, but little else). Even nails (with glue) would probably be stronger.

I am not a prospective customer.
 
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