Pine bowl

I submitted this in a hurry as my computer has been shutting down without warning. I may have to send it to the big computer room in the sky. The bowl is kiln dried pine with a couple of coates of Minwax finishing wax. You'll get tired of looking at these soon. I inted to get a lot of practice!
 
Nicely done, Roger. :thumb: Pine (especially dried pine) is a tough wood cut cleanly. (That's why you had some spots of tearout.) I also see a few marks on the inside that indicate the wood was bruised by the heel of the gouge, but things like that will improve with practice. You're off to a great start!
 
Yeah that's pretty nice for pine, its a real pain to get a decent cut on (I know folks do it and my hat is off to them!).

I also see a few marks on the inside that indicate the wood was bruised by the heel of the gouge, but things like that will improve with practice. You're off to a great start!

I get those, the 80 grit gouge sometimes helps a little there ;)
 
I'm glad to see someone get something good from pine. I never had any luck with it. It might be the species of pine I got a hold of as well. It's some kind called afghan pine. Really bad wood for turning. Literally falls apart on you. Oh, well. Good going, Roger!
 
Nicely done, Roger. :thumb: Pine (especially dried pine) is a tough wood cut cleanly. (That's why you had some spots of tearout.) I also see a few marks on the inside that indicate the wood was bruised by the heel of the gouge, but things like that will improve with practice. You're off to a great start!

If I put a secondaty bevel on the back of the gouge, would that help? I can do that easily.
 
If I put a secondaty bevel on the back of the gouge, would that help? I can do that easily.

Helps for me, I actually use a weird grind because ain't no one smacked me around to make me know better... but it basically has almost no heal. The bevel you ride only needs to be a small fraction of an inch long for it to work, the rest is (imho) mostly in the way.
 
If I put a secondaty bevel on the back of the gouge, would that help? I can do that easily.

Helps for me, I actually use a weird grind because ain't no one smacked me around to make me know better... but it basically has almost no heal. The bevel you ride only needs to be a small fraction of an inch long for it to work, the rest is (imho) mostly in the way.

Yeppers, the secondary bevel can prevent the bruising. Instead of just a single, second bevel, I kind of round off the heel by putting a whole bunch of beveled grinds on it.

And ditto what Ryan said about the 80 grit gouge. Sandpaper is just another tool in the box, in my opinion. That said, sometimes the bruise can be tough to sand out. And it also took me a long time to learn (the stubborn way) that using a lot of pressure on the sandpaper doesn't really help. Instead, it heats up the wood and can sort of case harden it, making it that much harder to get rid of the blemishes. :doh:
 
Never had much luck with pine... actually don't have anything in the shop except dimensional lumber in pine... I've turned some white cedar which is pretty soft and similar to pine... it did well and got a couple of nice bowls... also had a small cottonwood log that turned nicely.

On the bottoms, assuming you're talking about the inside of the bowl, I read somewhere that a flatter grind on the gouge would make the transition easier... I use a 60 degree grind on my primary gouge, with the wings swept back about 1/4 to 1/2 inch... works for me and is the tool I usually reach for first on what ever I'm turning. I do have a smaller gouge that's on a 45 degree, but it's pretty aggressive and I'm not quite as good with it. I usually finish the insides of my bowls with a side scraper that ground at about 80 degrees....

Your bowl turned out nicely.
 
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