Nancy McCaa
Member
- Messages
- 3
I am new to the forum, but so far I have not been able to find a specific answer to my dilemma.
As a hobbyist/craft-maker, I often need to "frame" my work. I have managed to work with mitering wood that lies flat (like a picture frame), and sideways (like a nickle standing on edge)... but cannot figure out how to miter "Corner Guard" (L-shaped) molding. If I miter the "top" to fit together - the "sides" are whacked. What is the secret trick?
My son says it has to be treated as if 2 individual pieces and adjust accordingly. He says run the 45=degree cut along the "top" (in to out, or out to in) and reset the saw and run a 2nd cut for the "sides" (back to front, or front to back). I understand his premise -- but it is counter intuitive to everything I know about people who are woodworkers/construction. Their motto is a one-pass rip (to save time).
Can it be my son's proposal is the correct answer? Or is there another/better way? Please help - I'm running out of wood.
Thanks.
As a hobbyist/craft-maker, I often need to "frame" my work. I have managed to work with mitering wood that lies flat (like a picture frame), and sideways (like a nickle standing on edge)... but cannot figure out how to miter "Corner Guard" (L-shaped) molding. If I miter the "top" to fit together - the "sides" are whacked. What is the secret trick?
My son says it has to be treated as if 2 individual pieces and adjust accordingly. He says run the 45=degree cut along the "top" (in to out, or out to in) and reset the saw and run a 2nd cut for the "sides" (back to front, or front to back). I understand his premise -- but it is counter intuitive to everything I know about people who are woodworkers/construction. Their motto is a one-pass rip (to save time).
Can it be my son's proposal is the correct answer? Or is there another/better way? Please help - I'm running out of wood.
Thanks.