squaring a large timber ?

You mean your Radial Arm Saw is to small for this one? :rofl:

Clamped guide with a skill saw, kerf all 4 sides as deep as it'll go (possibly in multiple passes/side if need be to make it a non-scary cut). Finish the cut just shy of the "good side" of the kerf with a hand saw, clean up the handsaw cut with a block plane or large chisel taking light paring cuts.
 
If you have a big (heavy duty) bandsaw, I would flatten one side on the jointer, cut a side square to it on the bandsaw (then joint the square size if your saw isn't perfect), then use the planer for the other two sides.
 
On of us is missing what you meant when you said "square (crosscut)" - I thought you meant how to crosscut it perfectly square?

What you said Ryan. I've got a few timbers that I'm going to be cutting soon and I need the ends square. I was going to use your method, but was just wanting to see if anyone had a different way.
 
I see these used over here all the time for about $10, no kidding....

51x-OrOsjML.jpg


382mm blade (15"), cut depth of 143mm that is 5-5/8" in one pass.

Too bad they don't sell them in the US.
 
They sell those over here Stu...or they used to anyway. I cut over 100 6x6 posts for around 25 decks on a summer framing job back when I was young. Heavy and scary is all I remember. :eek:
 
Would seriously consider it Stu if like Jim said the electrons would get along! Don't know much about that sparky stuff!

50 cycle stuff generally runs well on 60 cycle - just a bit (16%) faster, and with about 16% less power.

If the saw has a 'universal' (brush type) motor, it might not make any difference at all.

BTW, 60 cycle stuff generally doesn't fare well on 50 cycle power. The longer current peaks cause overheating.
 
Top