Whatever that is, LOL. The whole point is more one of defensible space, so don't really want anything to grow. I have a feeling I'd have a hard time getting anything I wanted to grow to grow, just as I have a hard time keeping things I don't wnat to grow from growing.
Bleh. Stupid auto typing phone thing, lets try this on an actual keyboard "Sparse Bunch Grass" (sparse being the key word here and bunch grass being synonymous with some other sparse growth desert plants). The idea is that if you have nothing the erosion will end up clearing the topsoil exposing which then allows more weeds to get ahold which ends up making the problem worse. If there is something to break the wind a bit, it'll help hold the dirt in place even if sparsely placed just because it breaks the wind a wee bit and stops the topsoil disturbance. You might be able to get a similar effect with carefully placed rock piles or something similar. I'm not sure, but I think you're to cold for some of the more southern plants like Yucca that often fit into that niche..
To further my argument I resort to the classic appeal to authority..
http://nsbla.nv.gov/uploadedFiles/nsblanvgov/content/home/features/CommunityDefensibleSpace.pdf
"Many homeowners sometimes clear a large area around their homes as a defensible space buffer. While this does offer initial protection , the cleared area is then subject to flammable weed growth such as cheatgrass, Russian thistle and medusahead grass . The area is also highly subject to both wind and water erosion, creating additional problems. A better a pproach is to thin the existing native shrubs (fuels reduction) and plant ornamentals in a 30 foot zone with rock mulch surrounding the home. The best plants in this zone are herbaceous, such as lawn, annuals and perennials. Plants with a high moisture content that are green and actively growing , and plants lacking flammable chemicals are the best selections. Shorter deciduous shrubs less than 2 feet tall are a better selection than taller evergreen shrubs ."
A short list of plants:
http://www.fs.fed.us/rm/boise/resea.../Horticulture/GardeningGuideForHighDesert.pdf
Notice that some of the coarser bunchgrasses do maintain moisture through the summer in the their core, but depends on the year, etc.. so its often worth cutting them back late spring anyway.
These guys are semi-local and have a lot of interesting information including another possible plant list:
http://www.moananursery.com/fb_files/IF-12 Defensible Space & Fire Resistant Plants.pdf
from:
http://www.moananursery.com/expert-tips-and-info/high-desert-fact-sheets.html
More here:
https://www.unce.unr.edu/publications/files/ho/2007/sp0712.pdf
bud sage looks promising, as does Ephedra viridus, Spiny hopsage, Apacheplume - Desert peach and Smooth sumac (although that one has other issues) might want to much water but are close.
You can likely get some of the borderline plants to grow and make a reasonable windbreak if you chop up the brush you're taking out and put it in a trench along the windward side to make a small hugelkultur bed (
http://www.richsoil.com/hugelkultur/,
http://www.permies.com/t/12150/hugelkultur/hugelkultur-hot-arid-climate) possibly enhanced by a swale or two to retain what little water you do get (
http://permaculturenews.org/2014/10/11/discovering-oasis-american-desert/,
https://www.permaculturereflections.com/water-catchment-strategies-for-drylands-swales/). With some planning and gare there you could probably get serviceberry, dogwood, and bitter/choke cherry as well as the desert currant/gooseberry variants to grow on something like that.
To be clear I don't think anything you're working on eradicating is worth keeping... but driving around the 4 wheeler will disturb the soil more and total plant eradication has similar issues so basically my concern is that you're creating more work for yourself than a somewhat more holistic approach would in the long term (ultimately I'm pretty lazy and will do a lot of work to avoid doing work.. yeah.. that's it
).
Once the soil crusts back over the tumbleweeds just won't grow.. but for that to happen the soil has to remain undisturbed and stable (takes about 2 years from what I've seen in similar climates). The cheat grass is a somewhat harder problem but I've had some luck with planting around it and doing spot applications to kill it back. The other desert plants collect the water and effectively starve it of moisture - they don't have to be that thick, but some do appear to help.
My experiences with dirt bikes and 4 wheelers impact on desert landscaping has been pretty universally negative, even at low rates of speed and careful usage they still break up the soil and then it goes down hill.
Anyway, I've said most of that before as my $0.02 so I'll shut up now.. carry on