Wax Questions

Sean Wright

Member
Messages
902
Location
WNY, Buffalo Area
I've never done this before, so bear with my questions on this.....:dunno:

I am planning on putting wax on the cast iron top of my TS and joiner. What kind of wax should I use? Also should I wax the fence on my TS? The fence is made of extruded aluminum.

I have a MDF extesnion that I built on to the TS. Should that be waxed too? or just left alone?

In applying the wax, I'm assuming that it would be a very fine coating. Would I buff the wax, once applied, like waxing a car?

Has anyone with a waxed TS, run in to problems with the wax gumming up with dust?


Thanks for the suggestions!
 
Johnson's Paste Wax. I wax top, fence and rails; MDF too. Wax on, wait till it just starts to cloud, then buff off.
 
Another vote for Johnson's applied per Glenn's post. I haven't had any problems with gumming.
Stay away from automotive waxes, most contain silicones that are baaaaaaad in a wood shop.
 
I use the Mothers Billet Cleaner (Auto Zone or almost any car parts store) to get the top super clean. And then the Johnsons and then a coat of Renaissance Wax.
The Renaissance Wax is pretty pricy but lasts a LONG time because you use so little. It is slicker than cat snot and super hard. It doesn't even allow finger prints.

DT

Mothers Billet Cleaner
http://www.properautocare.com/mobimepo.html

Renaissance Wax
http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping?DSP=50000&PCR=30000:120000:123000:123200&IID=8282
 
Hey Sean,
My philosophy on wax breaks down to two things:

1. less is more
2. do it once a week (or so)

Best way to avoid build up is to not put a lot on. At least in my location (southwest desert) there is always dust build up. So the idea is to wax, use the tools, clean off the dust, and wax again.

I have a list of Tuesday (garbage guy comes Wednesday) chores. On the list is brush off metal surfaces and apply wax.

If you are interested, other things on the list are: triage the scrap pile, empty the dc, sweep the floor, and take out the shop trash.

Don't sweat what brand you use. Johnsons is fine. Save the "good" paste wax for fine furniture.
 
Picked up some Johnson's Paste Wax at Lowe's. It was located with the cleaning products, if anyone can't find it there.

Hopefully I will be able to put it on the TS and joiner Monday night.

Thanks for all of your help! :thumb:
 
Wax On.... Wax Off.....

In the spirit of waxing everything, does anyone wax the base plate of their router? Also what about a planer? I have the Delta 13in 2 speed.... not sure how much "slip" one might want on a planer.

So far I've done the TS, Joiner, and Band Saw.
 
sean, i wax everything that wood slides on or against.....look at wax as "wood lube"........oh-yeah, i never buff either....tod
 
It is cast iron and not painted I wax it.

If it's cast iron and needs to slide I use paraffin Wax on it.
62307.jpg

Unless grease is more appropriate of course.

Jeff
 
Johnson's Paste Wax. I wax top, fence and rails; MDF too. Wax on, wait till it just starts to cloud, then buff off.


Exactly what I would have said if he had not said it first. Great mind this Glenn Bradley has. I also use Trewax iffin' I can't find any Johnson's but Johnson's is my favorite.... Why? Just always used it, from when I was a tiny tyke sitting on grandpa's knee, he would tell me how his grand pa taught him to wax with Johnson's. He would wax the kitchen floor on Saturdays and then use the rag to shine up the old Chevy... (most of that is Bull crap, but I still prefer Johnson's Wax.... )
 
I use the Mothers Billet Cleaner (Auto Zone or almost any car parts store) to get the top super clean. And then the Johnsons and then a coat of Renaissance Wax.
The Renaissance Wax is pretty pricy but lasts a LONG time because you use so little. It is slicker than cat snot and super hard. It doesn't even allow finger prints.

DT

Mothers Billet Cleaner
http://www.properautocare.com/mobimepo.html

Renaissance Wax
http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com/servlet/OnlineShopping?DSP=50000&PCR=30000:120000:123000:123200&IID=8282

Don, since you are already using the Renaissance wax, for the BEST Protection of the Cast Iron from Rust, etc, you would do better if you used the Renaissance directly on the metal, (from what I understand from some "Smarter Wax Knowledge" folks) it has a finer structure and even though you still put it on sparingly, you can work it into the pores of the metal better as you apply it, and it will give better protection than the Johnsons.
 
Minwax brand paste wax... Butcher's wax... Johnsons... anything with alot of carnuba and a mineral spirit base solvent. No silicone!!! like is found in many automotive products. Something like Briwax and other "specialty" waxs can prove tricky too because there is toulene in the solvent. If you use this over any lacquers you could see hazing as the solvent will break down the lacquer. Read the labels carefully. I also tend not to buff it out on metal. Blocks of parafin can come in handy too for a quick squiggle between boards on a jointer or planer. Also, I keep one can of wax only for my machines... The others are for wood. I never mix the two. Lot's of iron ends up in the metal can.
 
Don, since you are already using the Renaissance wax, for the BEST Protection of the Cast Iron from Rust, etc, you would do better if you used the Renaissance directly on the metal, (from what I understand from some "Smarter Wax Knowledge" folks) it has a finer structure and even though you still put it on sparingly, you can work it into the pores of the metal better as you apply it, and it will give better protection than the Johnsons.

Thank you Norman,

I'll do that next time.

DT
 
"does anyone wax the base plate of their router? Also what about a planer? I have the Delta 13in 2 speed.... not sure how much "slip" one might want on a planer."

Not sure about the router, never tried it. As for the planer, absolutely. I usually end up waxing the bottom of mine several times per job...

Thanks,

Bill
 
As I read thes posts I see where XYZ is sooooooo much superior, EFG is a clasic and will last forever.... Just grab some wax (not automobile wax as it contains silicone) and slop some on... wipe off the excess, Repeat in a few months.... Nuff said. :thumb:
 
In the spirit of waxing everything, does anyone wax the base plate of their router? Also what about a planer? I have the Delta 13in 2 speed.... not sure how much "slip" one might want on a planer.

So far I've done the TS, Joiner, and Band Saw.

Router plates - yes. Circular saw plates - yes. Planer bed and tables - yes. On the planer; waxing the bed and tables often eliminates the 'slipping' of the feed rollers that some folks get. Cleaning the rollers is always good too . . . no wax :D
 
Minwax brand paste wax... Butcher's wax... Johnsons... anything with alot of carnuba and a mineral spirit base solvent. No silicone!!! like is found in many automotive products. Something like Briwax and other "specialty" waxs can prove tricky too because there is toulene in the solvent. If you use this over any lacquers you could see hazing as the solvent will break down the lacquer. Read the labels carefully. I also tend not to buff it out on metal. Blocks of parafin can come in handy too for a quick squiggle between boards on a jointer or planer. Also, I keep one can of wax only for my machines... The others are for wood. I never mix the two. Lot's of iron ends up in the metal can.

Curious you would say "No silicone". Not doubting the value of what you said, I just dunno why/why not. OK, why/why not? :dunno:
 
Top