Life in Tokyo....

I have a client, who just bought a new house, and his old house has some furniture that needs removing.

The biggest problem is this table....




There is a seam in the very middle of the table.




The legs are removeable.

The top is 240cm long by 120 cm wide.

The problem is that the table is on the second floor, and does not fit out any of the hallways etc to the 1st floor.
When the table was purchased they had to use a crane and remove the window to get the table in.
The window in this room is 2/3 fixed window, and 1/3 open outwards, so to take the table out, we have to get a glass shop in to remove the whole sash, the client would like to NOT have to do that this time.

If the table is cut in half, right down the middle, on the seam, it can then be removed and reassembled later in the new house, or at least that is the thinking.

Now I'm looking at using my Festool TS55, I have one 1400mm track and one 800mm track for a total of 2200mm or 220 cm long, I guess I need another length of track.

OK now this is the whole "Life in Tokyo" thing.

In the US the FS 1400/2 track is $129

Here in Japan, the same track FS 1400/2 is 28,875 yen ($230) not quite double, but you get the picture.

OK I was thinking, why not buy the 2700 (106") super long one and just be done with it....?

US FS 2700 $321
Japan FS 2700 is 109,132 yen or $871, wow!

Not sure what I'm going to do yet, I could get the extra length I need by buying a second FS 800 rail for about $150.

Yeah, life in the big city.

Cheers!

For a one shot deal I would be tempted to make a shop made pair of guides. The big advantage of the track is that it guides the saw and removes any unsteadiness along the path that might cause a rough cut. A pair of strips that capture the saw base may do the same thing for you and when you're done, you don't have to store the new and very expensive tracks. I find myself making decisions on frequency of use and storage between use scenarios a lot lately ;-)

instead of cutting the table, why not have the client pay to get it out the way he got it in?

I am thinking a very nice, straight board clamped on the table and run the saw along that edge. Of course set the board so the saw is against it and the blade is cutting down the middle.

Then for reassembly, drill and insert metal rods on the one side that mate with corresponding holes on the other so all stays aligned, but,,,, then maybe four? sets of turnbuckle type thingamajigs that would keep the two halves tightened yet could be split in half again later if needed to be moved, sold, given away, etc.

Looks like an OK solution. Any idea what the core of the table is? Going to take some cardboard templates up/down the stairs to make sure they will go after doing this?

Dan Noren said:

instead of cutting the table, why not have the client pay to get it out the way he got it in?

Click to expand...

"the client would like to NOT have to do that this time".

Jonathan Shively said:

I am thinking a very nice, straight board clamped on the table and run the saw along that edge. Of course set the board so the saw is against it and the blade is cutting down the middle.

Then for reassembly, drill and insert metal rods on the one side that mate with corresponding holes on the other so all stays aligned, but,,,, then maybe four? sets of turnbuckle type thingamajigs that would keep the two halves tightened yet could be split in half again later if needed to be moved, sold, given away, etc.

Click to expand...

I've seen something like what Jon's suggesting. I'll call it a "countertop bolt" that runs between two corresponding shallow countersunk holes on the underside. Alignment pins would be a good idea too.

Ouch, that long rail would be cheaper to remove the window!

Darren Wright said:

Any idea what the core of the table is?

Click to expand...

Good point Darren. Definitely would be unfortunate to cut it in half and then have an even bigger problem putting it back together! If its solid I want some of those slabs

Yeah, I was wondering about reassembly.

It's a veneer? Will the table need to be sanded and refinished?

It just might be less expensive to go through the window.

Certainly the client paying for the extra track you need is less expensive than the window/crane scenario! Also recommend the countertop bolts. Now your issue is storage of the extra track. But you are a storage guru from what I have seen!

I have a meeting with them on Monday about the renovation of the 5th floor of the building they just rented, I did the soundproof room etc. on the fourth floor last year.
The same client also wants a bunch of work done on his new house, maybe even an outside deck!

I really want to see the table, not just pictures, I'm betting that it is not solid, but who knows, if it is, this might be why they had to use a crane.

Time will tell.
Cheers!

I would be very hesitant to cut the table in half. After studying the picture I am willing to bet the the table is made with a veneer over a lesser material or even a hollow core and the ability to re assemble it and close up the seam will be trouble very some to say the least. It seems that this is a very good client and I would not want to take a chance on jeopardizing the relationship by doing something that could turn out to be less than perfect. Sometime "discretion is the better part of valor" The best solution my be to take it out the way it was brought in. JMHO.

I just realized that the table top is rather thick, my Festool only cuts 55mm (2-5/32") so maybe it will be time to buy one of those monster 15" circular saws and make my own guide.

Something else that was a problem getting the table in was the power lines outside the window, they had to be temporarily moved.... ouch, expensive.

Jack up the price of the old house to cover the cost of a new table at the new house and leave the old table right where it is.

I think I would get a piece of something that was 1/2 the size of the table top and make sure it would get down t the first floor. You did say "that is the thinking" regarding whether it would work. You probably don't want to cut it in 1/2 lengthwise and then again width wise. It will be interesting to hear the solution.

Stuart Ablett said:

...I really want to see the table, not just pictures, I'm betting that it is not solid, but who knows, if it is, this might be why they had to use a crane...

Click to expand...

My bet would be that it's a veneer over a particle board core. I've never seen a lightweight conference table.

I have a sneaking suspicion that this table was made by the same guy who made another table that this client owns, it may very well be solid wood, with a veneer top.
This table...

Here is an idea, see what you think.

I do the cut down the center then when I reassemble the table in the new location I put a new piece of wood in the middle, maybe an inch wide, but this piece has slots or holes in it for wires, say for electrical or LAN cables etc, they will again use it as a conference table and will at least want one of those table center speakers in the middle, this would add value to the table.

A slot (and a tasteful cover with strategically-placed access holes) could be a very useful addition to the table. At my last office we had several conference tables with power, telephone, network, and video (for the video projector) connections.

Along these lines, sort of....

A nice contrasting wood like walnut would possibly enhance the look also. I think the center with holes and then create it so the customer can convert it back without the center board. Much like taking a leaf from a table. Only it is mechanically fastened either way.