Chain Saw recommendations

Darren Wright

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Springfield, Missouri
For the past 20 years I've gotten by with a cheap electric chainsaw (Remington brand I think), which has worked well for the few storms and shrub cleanup. But having about 20 trees now to trim up every year and planning to buy some more land in the next few years, I'd like to get a gas powered one. My budget is in the $150 to $350 range, maybe a little. Just curious what brands you all have and what features about the saws you have you like/don't like.
 
Stihl or husqvarna, pick one that has a local dealer both are decent saws although there is a lot of Ford vs Chevy type talk about them. If you can afford to go up into the ranch or pro lines from the homeowner lines in any way possible (skip a few lattes out, save for a few more months, ...) it's well worth it. The ranch models are into the upper end of your price range, but decent chainsaws just aren't cheap (I've been eyeballing a small chainsaw mill but the saw alone is likely north of a grand). The pro models are closer to double your upper budget so that's likely out. Figure something with 50cc or more in the powerhouse to run an adequately sized bar, my 372xp husky has 70cc which is about right for a 24", I could get by at 28 or maybe 30 if I was careful not to push it to hard (recommended 28" max) and it's around 70cc, I've used all of it on occasion and a few times wanted a little more (really three saws would be nice, a smaller one for limbing and small work and another for the really big stuff :D).

For your budget and needs probably a husky 450 rancher is probably the best fit. If there isn't a local husky dealer but there is a stihl dealer see if you can talk them down on a ms271 farm boss.
 
I'll echo Ryan. Stihl or Husqvarna, from a local dealer, not the Borg. The dealer can provide advice and service that is worth the extra money spent by shopping at the little guy's place. When I bought my Stihl, I went to a dealer that sold both (plus Echo and a few others) and asked for his recommendation. He told me both were great saws, but most of the local pros were using Stihl chainsaws, and that he had a better, faster parts supply line with Stihl than with Husqvarna. He also said that in other parts of the country the story could be the exact opposite, with Husqvarna being the better choice. As a side note, a couple of years later I wanted a pro-level string trimmer, and I went to the same shop, planning to buy a Stihl. The dealer talked me into an Echo instead, citing the same reasons he used when he talked me into the Stihl chainsaw. That trimmer is another one of my "makes me smile every time I use it" tools, just like my chainsaw.

I'll also second Ryan's recommendation to spend a bit more money and get model that's in a grade above the low-end consumer levels. In the long run, it'll save you money, and you'll thank yourself every time you use the saw. My first chainsaw was a Poulan from Home Depot. It worked OK for about a year, but it was a chore to use and eventually got to where it was hard to keep running. So I dropped about $600 on a Stihl MS390 and have had no regrets at all. Here again, I went with the dealer's advice for help in pickout out the model. I explained my needs, and he suggested the MS series -- Stihl's mid-grade line. It was the biggest engine in that line, and about $150 less than the same-sized pro model. The dealer said that for my frequency of use, the mid-line would still last me a lifetime, and unless I really wanted the few ounces lighter weight that the pro line offered, I should use the extra money on something else (like protective gear). I equipped it with both a 18" and a 24" bar. I should never have to replace it in my life, and it just simply works when I need it to. And man, will it eat wood. :thumb:
 
Stihl or husqvarna, pick one that has a local dealer both are decent saws although there is a lot of Ford vs Chevy type talk about them. If you can afford to go up into the ranch or pro lines from the homeowner lines in any way possible (skip a few lattes out, save for a few more months, ...) it's well worth it. The ranch models are into the upper end of your price range, but decent chainsaws just aren't cheap (I've been eyeballing a small chainsaw mill but the saw alone is likely north of a grand). The pro models are closer to double your upper budget so that's likely out. Figure something with 50cc or more in the powerhouse to run an adequately sized bar, my 372xp husky has 70cc which is about right for a 24", I could get by at 28 or maybe 30 if I was careful not to push it to hard (recommended 28" max) and it's around 70cc, I've used all of it on occasion and a few times wanted a little more (really three saws would be nice, a smaller one for limbing and small work and another for the really big stuff :D).

For your budget and needs probably a husky 450 rancher is probably the best fit. If there isn't a local husky dealer but there is a stihl dealer see if you can talk them down on a ms271 farm boss.

I'll echo Ryan. Stihl or Husqvarna, from a local dealer, not the Borg. The dealer can provide advice and service that is worth the extra money spent by shopping at the little guy's place. When I bought my Stihl, I went to a dealer that sold both (plus Echo and a few others) and asked for his recommendation. He told me both were great saws, but most of the local pros were using Stihl chainsaws, and that he had a better, faster parts supply line with Stihl than with Husqvarna. He also said that in other parts of the country the story could be the exact opposite, with Husqvarna being the better choice. As a side note, a couple of years later I wanted a pro-level string trimmer, and I went to the same shop, planning to buy a Stihl. The dealer talked me into an Echo instead, citing the same reasons he used when he talked me into the Stihl chainsaw. That trimmer is another one of my "makes me smile every time I use it" tools, just like my chainsaw.

I'll also second Ryan's recommendation to spend a bit more money and get model that's in a grade above the low-end consumer levels. In the long run, it'll save you money, and you'll thank yourself every time you use the saw. My first chainsaw was a Poulan from Home Depot. It worked OK for about a year, but it was a chore to use and eventually got to where it was hard to keep running. So I dropped about $600 on a Stihl MS390 and have had no regrets at all. Here again, I went with the dealer's advice for help in pickout out the model. I explained my needs, and he suggested the MS series -- Stihl's mid-grade line. It was the biggest engine in that line, and about $150 less than the same-sized pro model. The dealer said that for my frequency of use, the mid-line would still last me a lifetime, and unless I really wanted the few ounces lighter weight that the pro line offered, I should use the extra money on something else (like protective gear). I equipped it with both a 18" and a 24" bar. I should never have to replace it in my life, and it just simply works when I need it to. And man, will it eat wood. :thumb:

Ditto and ditto, the only thing I'd add is that Shindaiwa is also a very good brand.
Cheers!
 
I have a Husqvarna 55 rancher. It's the 455 rancher now. I've had it close to 20 year and cut a lot of wood with it. The only problem I've had is the ignition module went out about 4 years ago. I replaced it myself and it's been fine since. My FIL and BIL both run Stihl and theirs have been good saws. The 455 rancher and the Stihl MS 271 FARM BOSS are in the 350 to 400 range.
 
Chain saw brands have evolved and sometimes degraded (or disappeared) over the years. In 1970 I bought McCulloch 14", and I still have and use it to this day. But they are some others have went belly up, and the only two I would consider anymore are the Stihl and Husqvarna brands. I picked up a Stihl 20" (used) and now have it with the smaller one....I just hope it lasts as long. About the only features I care about is a safety brake for kickback type accidents, auto chain oiler, and that they start easily. Both of mine do (the easy start) even when they've been in storage a while, and I used one once without an auto oiler which convinced me to never buy one like that.
 
My lawn tractor and small engine mechanic mentioned the Shindaiwa... I had him working on my Husquvarna clone (Crapsman) that wouldn't start and he recommended getting one. In his opinion it the better of the three saws.

Sounds like he's a dealer that's geared up to service Shindaiwa. They are indeed great saws, but it's important to get something your local guy can service. :thumb:
 
After looking at some of the features, I'm leaning towards a Stihl, but we have two local dealers that carry both, not far to go for more dealers around here. I've bought my zero from one of the locals, and my weed wacker from the other, both seem to have good service, so will see which can give a better deal. Might even see if I can get one to throw in the carbide tooth chains. ;)
 
They make carbide chainsaw chains? :huh: who knew.

Not sure I can see that's worth it given that it's 10m to sharpen by hand, but I guess if you had a lot of dirty stuff to cut perhaps...

Which still around stihl are you looking at?
 
I went through similar research just a couple months ago, and learned a lot. Things change, so buying on brand alone isn't always reliable. As with any tool, buying the particular saw is more important than the brand. Unless you find a clearance price, buy used, or a refurb, most saws in the sub-$200 price range aren't going to be noteworthy. Stihl, Husky, Echo, Dolmar, and others make some good saws, but in the consumer price ranges, many don't really live up to their reputation...you'll find mixed reviews on every one of them, which emphasizes the advice to buy one from a reputable dealer who will service it. I would avoid Poulan, Homelight, Craftsman, etc, simply because there are better choices. I'd run ethanol free fuel, good two stroke oil, and keep it fresh.

I stumbled into a clearance deal on a Dolmar made Makita saw from Grainger. In researching it I discovered a local service center who spoke highly of them, and also discovered that's what HD rents from their tool crib. With that news, $156 for a $350 saw was hard to pass up... it's been good so far.
 
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I'd be interested to hear if you get a "better deal". The ones around me were all in lockstep on the price, when I discussed this with one of them he said the Stihl policy on price is very rigid and they can't violate it. Something about those German companies make them want iron fisted control over the price of their products, I guess.
 
I believe the discussion begins and ends with Stihl. I have owned Poulan, Craftsman and Homelite chain saws. Finally quit messing around and got a Stihl and regret waiting so long to make the plunge. No comparison to others at all. I got the 'easy start' feature and am glad I did. My old, torn up shoulders cannot pull start some engines anymore. Another reason to go Stihl is they do not want any unhappy customer out there. I have a heavy duty trimmer that for years was very hard to start. I wrote a letter of complaint to Stihl and they completely rebuilt the unit. BTW, it was 30 years old when I wrote the letter. There is a former member of FWW who is a professional logger. He has numerous chain saws. He told me he replaces most brands every one or two years but his 'newest' Stihl is fifteen years old. Says a lot. Except why he bothers buying other brands at all. :huh: But, he was a unusual character.
 
Sounds like he's a dealer that's geared up to service Shindaiwa. They are indeed great saws, but it's important to get something your local guy can service. :thumb:

Nope, just an independent shade tree mechanic... he's been really good with my tractor, not so successful with the chainsaw... he had a little electric that he was about to throw away and gave to me instead... it's a little 14" poulan and works better than the Worx that I had from Lowe's... matter of fact, I tossed the Worx a couple of weeks back cause it didn't Worx.

I use electrics around the shop 'cause like Frank, I have trouble pulling the start ropes on some of my tools... shoulders get sore, but worse than that I get winded very badly having to pull multiple times to start...
 
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I would buy a Stihl. I have owned both Stihl and Husqvarna, It used to be the case that a pro model Husky would out cut a conferrable Stihl. I know this by working them side by side professionally when working logging. We would cut 8-10 more trees per day with a Husky over the Stihl. That's a lot of $ over time, X the number of sawyers working on a crew. That being said, that was in the 80's. The husky's would not last as long as a Stihl. We didn't care because they would pay for themselves with the higher production.

Today: Stihl is still a great company and generally better when supplying parts in a timely fashion. Husky has seemed to go downhill and are sold more often in big box stores. Stihl dealer networks are more plentiful. Stihl uses 2 piston rings making the piston/ cylinder more stable. (Husky's were notorious for piston rings breaking after about a year of hard use.)

What to consider: I buy saws with one thing in mind. How much wood can I cut COMFORTABLY. So I buy a saw that has the horsepower to drive enough chain for a 20" bar minimum. I do better with a 24" bar. ?? I don't do well bending over much considering back surgery.
I currently have a Stihl 029 w/20" bar converted to 3/8 chain. This is my topping saw. My felling saw is a 385xp Husky w24"bar. I have run a 43" bar on this saw for big timber. @6.4 hp it is a beast. Yet I am comfortable cutting with this heavy saw because I don't have to bend over much to get to ground level, and it cuts so much faster that a lighter power saw.

Get chaps and a helmet if you intend to fell trees. I know 4-5 guys killed because they didn't wear safety equipment or follow safe practices. Most of the fatalities were from trees or tops/limbs falling on their heads, or barber chair splits.
When moving (walking through the woods) with a running saw, put on the chain brake. It is plenty easy to pull it off before doing any sawing. Wrap your thumb around the top handle. Did I mention wrap your thumb? WRAP YOUR THUMB!!! If your thumb is not wrapped around the top handle then how does the chain brake work when your hand slides off the handle when you get a kick back? Pretty ugly injury when a chain cuts into your hand. (I've seen this- guy was told repeatedly to wrap his thumb) Be very careful cutting wood under tension. Consider where a tensioned limb will go when you cut it loose. Take the time to walk to the other side of a top to cut a limb that will spring away from you. Leaning trees kill a lot of people, because the tree is in both compression and tension. They are prone to "barber chair splits" NEVER cut from behind the tension side of the tree. Best practice is to wrap a log chain around the trunk 2 x and securely hook it off above your felling cuts. (if it splits it can't go anywhere.) I cut these from the side with my arms extended.

There are lots more safety concerns to pay attention too. Take the time to read up an/ or watch youtubes.

Keep your chain sharp.
 
I had one of those remington electric saws for a long time. I miss it. I probably cut down 20 trees with it. Small trees. I put a 16" bar on it and it served me well for the better part of 10-15 years. I replaced it with a craftsman electric and it crapped out in less than a year without cutting down a single tree.

I finally got a Husky and it serves me well.
 
So Darren any news on the new toy?

And Paul i really appreciate you putting forth all that advice. Going to actually print it for myself. Of all machines the chainsaw is the only one that really gives me the heeby jeebies. Just seems like a crazy machine with an exposed blade like that. I bought really good chaps on Vaughns recommendation and Larrys endorsement and they worth it to have one feel a degree of safety. I ain't cutting trees down yet but...in the future ..maybe. Ja you country guys have the drop on us city folk rather suburban folk when it comes to these things. ;)
 
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