Shed floor framing question

Rob Keeble

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Location
GTA Ontario Canada
I am building a base for an arrow metal shed.

Size is 10x12

Thought I had this all figured out but now sid (self imposed doubt) popped around just after I got home from HD this evening.

My plan was 3 deck blocks down each 12th side of shed.

Then using 2x6x12 across top of row of three deck blocks.

Then simply screwing 2x6x10 across from side to side to act as joists for floor.

Typing that with cheap Osb tongue and groove for floor.

1) So do I need to use joist hangers to secure the 2x6x10 to the 2x6x12's end to face? . Option 1 in very rough sketch.


Or should I be getting a couple more 2x6x12's and resting my 2x6x10's on the existing 2x6x12's as supports for the joists? Opt 2cin very rough sketch



uploadfromtaptalk1461114326865.jpg
 
Funny you should ask.

I built a 10x12 shed 30 years ago. Now I am just starting a new 10x12 shed.

My old shed was 2x6 with NO joist hangers. I don't remember how many support blocks I used but I think 6. I did not use any PT at all. I used to park my Suzuki 850 in the shed.

My new shed will also be 2x6 but WITH joist hangers. I just like the added strength, and they don't really cost all that much. I am also using 9 support blocks. 8 blocks around the perimeter and one on the center, spanning 2 - 10' joints on the middle. I don't believe I did that 30 years ago, and the floor is still strong.

I don't know how thick the floor is on the old shed - I think 3/4. The new shed is going to be 3/4 plywood, not PT.

What is correct - I don't know, but my old shed lasted 30 years and the new shed is going to be better built.

I will post a couple of pics in the next days or a week or so. I plan to have the decking done this coming weekend.
 
A 10' span for 2x6 is pretty far so depends on what you plan to store in it, I'd consider 2x8 s. Option 1 should work (your pic is upside down btw). If you're screwing them on, probably can get by without joist hangers, again just depends on what you plan to put in there. they aren't that expensive, so I'd just add them.
 
I agree with Darren on bumping the floor joists up to 2x8's. The old rule of thumb used to be if you are nailing through your rim joist into the floor joist then you don't need hangers. I am guessing the old timers were counting on the shear strength of the nail. I would not trust the 12 footers to carry the load alone and would doubling them up. And would get 3/4 adventack for the floor. As the tile guy says 'There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it twice.:thumb::thumb:
 
oh boy, here i was thinking i was overkilling it. lol

BTW thanks for feedback guys where would i be without your advice.

will return the 2×6 and go for 2×8 and get hangers.
This is only a 5.5ft high shed and its only temp while we here.
Dont think i will keep it when we move. more likely end up in trash.
Going to do what Allen did long time ago and that is get the wood out of the shop. And some other space eaters.
Maybe ,maybe lawnmower in winter.

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10 x 12 shed for scrap wood. How ever will you decide which half goes into the shed and what stays outside?:thumb::rofl::rofl:
 
oh boy, here i was thinking i was overkilling it. lol

BTW thanks for feedback guys where would i be without your advice.

will return the 2×6 and go for 2×8 and get hangers.
This is only a 5.5ft high shed and its only temp while we here.
Dont think i will keep it when we move. more likely end up in trash.
Going to do what Allen did long time ago and that is get the wood out of the shop. And some other space eaters.
Maybe ,maybe lawnmower in winter.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

I had to use more wall space in the shop once I put the drum sander and snow blower back in the shed.
I only store sheet goods in the shed now. Its not so much the foot print of space they use, its the constant having to move them every time they are in the way of something I need to get too. small shops, a lot of moving stuff constantly.
 
This was not going to be a 10x 12 and after digesting the consequences of my actions and your feedback I wish I had stuck to my original plan. Dang. It's my fault and I will sort it out.
 
That is an option too, add some more deck blocks down the center and try to get a pretty good base under those. There would be a chance of it settling on one corner and racking the whole shed though. I'd try to do full spans if you could.
 
Yeah Leo thats exactly what i have been considering. Feel to lazy to load all i have back and unload again at HD and then load all new and unload again.
lol
So getting a few more 2x6s both ways and about 5 more deck blocks and some cross blocking and some joist hangers and i think after that it will just have to do. its only got to stay in place for a couple of years.
I was going to build 12×8 and make it modular so i can dismantle it in module form when time to move came.
But best made plans i guess...improvise, adapt and overcome.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 
Rob,

This is a shed, not a home. I did get a contractors license and I did study the building codes. That does not make one an architectural engineer.

I looked under my 30 year old shed and it does sag in the middle, but it is 30 years old and I did span 10 feet unsupported. I did park my Suzuki 850 in there for a few years. Also, it only has a 1/2 floor.

I agree, spanning 10' with a 2x6 is a bit too much, so I decided on another 2x6x12 as a middle span with another support under the middle.

Additionally, I also decided on extending another 8 feet to make a 20 x 10, but that will be 12" on center with the 8' 2x6's so I can park y John Deere in there.

I will get pictures this weekend.
 
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