Spindle Tramming Gage

Leo Voisine

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East Freeetown, Massachusetts
I made this today.

It is functional, but not pretty yet.

I will make it pretty after I get the machine settings set up via using this device.

Ohhh - it is a tram to help me get the spindle perpendicular to the machine bed. I am going to shoot to be within .001 over 12" Right now, it is not even reasonably acceptable.

It could be used on a drill press also.

Spindle Tram Gage.jpg
 
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Ok, I'll bite and admit I'm not entirely sure how you're using it since everyone else seems shy today :)

Also I'm curious (based on what I think I know) how this is better than simply milling a reference surface to match the spindle plane?
 
Ok, I'll bite and admit I'm not entirely sure how you're using it since everyone else seems shy today :)

Also I'm curious (based on what I think I know) how this is better than simply milling a reference surface to match the spindle plane?


I was wondering how long it was going to be before someone asked a question.

Yes, I can run a cutter along the "X" axis and the "Y" axis. That will make the table relative to those 2 axis planes, BUT.

NOW - the centerline of the spindle needs to be made "perpendicular" to the table top. If it is not perpendicular - neither will the cutter be, and more to the point - the face of the cutter will not be parallel to the table. That will manifest itself in grooves on the face of whatever is being cut that needs to be sanded out.

When the centerline of the spindle is out of perpendicular - one edge of the cutter will cut deeper than the opposite edge.

Does that make sense?
 
OK I think I'm getting the problem is basically if you move the head up and down you move the reference point.

I'm still feeling a bit baffled about how you use this to measure that, I know it's "simple" geometry somehow but... I guess it's one of those days. :D
 
OK I think I'm getting the problem is basically if you move the head up and down you move the reference point.

I'm still feeling a bit baffled about how you use this to measure that, I know it's "simple" geometry somehow but... I guess it's one of those days. :D


Tomorrow I will demonstrate.

I have my foot on ice and cannot move around much right now.
 
I just saw this thread ... i will be making one of these as well ... my spindle is WAY out.

As for the question of why so precise when cutting wood...

When you go to flatten a surface with a cutter that's - say - 1-1/2" diameter - if the spindle center isn't perpendicular with the X and Y axis (maybe think of it as plumb) to a pretty good degree, it will leave a step as each pass steps over. it's worsened if the spindle is tilted along the axis perpendicular to the axis you're traveling while cutting (a lean along the X while cutting along the Y)...

I just did some simple quick measuring - let's say leo detects 1/32" over 12" of outage on the X axis. Now take a 1-1/2" diameter cutter - 6" to the right along the X axis from the center of the cutter would be 1/64" taller and 6" to the left of the center would be 1/64" shorter than the center. Seems tiny, huh?

Now if you flatten a board, traveling along the Y axis, with a 1-1/4" step-over, that translates to a .002893" step where the passes overlap (i could've used a larger stepover to make this more dramatic, but it doesn't matter. you can feel .003" and it takes a while to sand that out.

and that was only 1/32" out over a foot ... now that doesn't seem like a lot - but without measuring, how do you know? 1/32" out would be unacceptable for me ... If i could dial it in to within .010", I'd be happier. I bet my spindle's worse than 1/32" which is why i'm gonna make this trammer ... plus, i'll be able to tram other things like my drill press and my milling machine :D

Great post, leo!
 
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Carol and I were in my shop playing around with a piece of oak with a huge know in the middle - knot was about 6" diameter and facing it with a 1-1/2 cutter. One edge was cutting deeper than the opposite edge by, ohhh, maybe 1/64 - or a little more. The edge cutting deeper was leaving a groove in the face. The wood was too large for my jointer or planer. One side was rough sawn and we wanted it to stay rough sawn. We used a ROS to sand out the grooved face. We needed to use 40 grit first to get the bulk of the grooves out, then 60, then 120. It took a fair amount of effort to get that face flat and smooth.

If the spindle was perpendicular as I hope to achieve, then a little ROS with 150 will be sufficient.

Also - I don't cut only wood. I do cut plastics, aluminum, brass, HDU and anything else I can get - not steel.

BUT - even on wood, it does make a difference.

I will do a tutorial on this as it plagues a lot of folk and it's a little difficult to wrap yer head around it with good pictures and demonstrations.

This is high on my list of priorities, so I will get to it soon. I am thinking within the next week or two.
 
I can see how your doo-dad can help with setup on a cnc and drill press. On my cnc, I've been using a machinist's square to ensure my spindle is square to the gantry and the side rails. Then, when I run a job to flatten the base board, the entire "system" is aligned. Making sure of all alignment points sure makes engraving a lot nicer! :)
 
I think I'm getting it.. feeling kind of slow but.. :D

How do you deal with the dips and bumps in the reference surface? It seems like that would wreak havoc on your measurement at the level you're going for.

How do you get the bar to be perfectly perpendicular to the spindle connection? I guess you could still work it out because it would be relative but it seems like that would be a bit of a problem (yeah sure drilling square, but chicken and egg problem..).
 
To deal with the dips and bumps on the reference surface I have a plate of aluminum that I am going to use. It's not perfect, but it is flatter than my table surface.

The bar does not need to be perfectly perpendicular. The "two" indicators are to be zeroed out on "one" fixed reference point.
 
OK - I did it.

I got the "Y" axis first. That is the axis I needed to shim. That is now within .0005 over 12" That was originally about .070 over 12". The result was a .010 - .015 step in the face using a 1-1/2 diameter cutter and stepover about 90%.

Then I got the "X" axis. That one just needed to be tilted. That is also within .0005 over 12" It was off about .035

After facing a piece of oak there was about nothing for a step but there were visible lines. I block sanded with 220 effortlessly.

I took pics and video. Tomorrow I will try to compile a video
 
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