Lithophanes on the 3d Printer

Darren Wright

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Looking through youtube I came across a video on doing lithophanes on the 3d printer using Cura, I later found another that uses an online site for creating them (free) which seemed to work a little better and had options for creating them in shapes (curves, cylinders, etc)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feL0OMZwZoo


Using http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WP1ejhk7XGk


Here are some samples of what I'm planning to try:

2016-04-05 19.43.15.jpg lithosample.jpg

I ordered some pearl while filament, the slicer says it will take about 2 1/2 hours for a roughly 3" x 4" pane. It's close to 5 1/2 hours for a 5" x 7", so starting small. ;)
 
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I don't know about this site and the software, I'll be checking it out, but I do know that for the lithophanes I've done it is best to start with a greyscale picture.

 
I was able to give this a try tonight, using the following photo.
2016-04-06 01.53.56.jpg

It came out quite well,
2017-01-02 21.15.26.jpg 2017-01-02 21.15.12.jpg

Well, except for one issue. I had the option set to make it a negative, and should have made it a positive. The option is under Settings>>Image Settings, set it to the "Positive" side on the first option for the 3dp.rocks site.
2017-01-02 21.21.42.jpg

Running another now to see how it does.
 
I was able to give this a try tonight, using the following photo.
View attachment 98091

It came out quite well,
View attachment 98093 View attachment 98092

Well, except for one issue. I had the option set to make it a negative, and should have made it a positive. The option is under Settings>>Image Settings, set it to the "Positive" side on the first option for the 3dp.rocks site.
View attachment 98094

Running another now to see how it does.

Nope, never done that before even once..... :rolleyes:
 
Looks like a good start, Darren! How thick are you making the lithophane?

That one was about 2mm at the thickest part, took about 1 1/2 hours to run.

One thing to mention, with all the detail in the higher layers of these, the print head really gets to shaking the whole printer. My attempt last night appeared to be working fine until about half way through, then the front foot of the printer shook it's way off the front of the desk, which got the z axis out of wack. I ended up with some spaghetti on top of that one. Will give it another try tonight or tomorrow, but may print some new supports for the printer and add some rubber feet first. ;)
 
That one was about 2mm at the thickest part, took about 1 1/2 hours to run.

One thing to mention, with all the detail in the higher layers of these, the print head really gets to shaking the whole printer. My attempt last night appeared to be working fine until about half way through, then the front foot of the printer shook it's way off the front of the desk, which got the z axis out of wack. I ended up with some spaghetti on top of that one. Will give it another try tonight or tomorrow, but may print some new supports for the printer and add some rubber feet first. ;)

In my research about the A8, I've run across all kinds of "helpers" for the assembly, as I'm sure you have as well.

Frame Brace

X-Axis Bracket

Sounds like it still needs to be bolted down to the bench or shelf it sits on!
 
In my research about the A8, I've run across all kinds of "helpers" for the assembly, as I'm sure you have as well.

Frame Brace

X-Axis Bracket

Sounds like it still needs to be bolted down to the bench or shelf it sits on!

Thanks, I hadn't seen that second one yet, but had looked at the "stiffy" brace links at the bottom of that link this morning. Rather than printing the frame brace (first link) I was thinking of just mounting the printer on some mdf and building some of the bracing using mdf as well. Probably not as nice looking, but having it all mounted to one board would help with any twisting of the frame like what occurred last night.
 
Thanks, I hadn't seen that second one yet, but had looked at the "stiffy" brace links at the bottom of that link this morning. Rather than printing the frame brace (first link) I was thinking of just mounting the printer on some mdf and building some of the bracing using mdf as well. Probably not as nice looking, but having it all mounted to one board would help with any twisting of the frame like what occurred last night.

From what I have read mounting it to a solid base is highly recommended. They say that it will keep you from having to level it as often as well as add the rigidness that the open from unit lacks.
:thumb:
 
Took a pause on these to print out the hold downs and X Brackets, will get those mounted tonight, then will continue with some more tests.
2017-01-04 07.44.18.jpg

The brackets I printed with 25% infill, which creates a squared honey comb like structure inside. The hold downs were printed at 100% infill (solid).
2017-01-03 23.57.50.jpg

I'll be mounting the printer on some mdf with rubber feet under it, but this is how the hold downs attach.
2017-01-04 07.45.58.jpg
 
So I loaded up the table last night before heading to the house. When I came up to the shop this morning I found things went a little wonky.
2017-01-07 12.04.21.jpg

Turns out that I caused the mess. I had cut one of my nozzles with an opening to make it easier to check on things and plugged the openings with some black filament. It looks like one side of it warped as it was a bit close to the hot end. I'm guessing it must have snagged on the pane that was no longer on the bed.
2017-01-07 12.13.35.jpg

Had a little cleanup to do. I took Brent's advice and heated it up then used a wet paper towel to wipe away the plastic, worked like a charm.
2017-01-07 12.12.15.jpg


After scraping some of the spaghetti off, they actually turned out pretty well, but will reprint them all anyway
2017-01-07 14.52.33.jpg 2017-01-07 14.52.44.jpg

2017-01-07 14.52.18.jpg 2017-01-07 14.52.23.jpg

2017-01-07 14.51.40.jpg 2017-01-07 14.51.54.jpg
 

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I am guessing the sailor one is your son. Thats absolutely incredible.

Was thinking this morning if one was into model trains and associated towns and detail in a permanent layout then the things that could be printed would be incredible. From people to town buildings, clock towers, water towers bridges the list is endless.
 
Looks great!

Rob, I have a friend with a printer and model trains. He got a printer especially just to print parts for his railroad setup.
 
Thanks guys, Hopefully the final versions will get done later this next week. I think they would have turned out well if I had gotten that nozzle off of there. I had noticed it sagging a little, but didn't think it was an issue. :doh:

I am guessing the sailor one is your son. Thats absolutely incredible.

Was thinking this morning if one was into model trains and associated towns and detail in a permanent layout then the things that could be printed would be incredible. From people to town buildings, clock towers, water towers bridges the list is endless.

Yup, that's him and our DIL, one of my favorite pics of them so far.

I was telling a coworker about the printer, he hadn't really seen one, but found out that he builds model ships in his spare time. He's really interested in seeing how they work now.
 
Well another thought came to mind today, i recall way back in time visiting a place in Europe, memory cannot recall name, but later years saw the same thing created in Johannesburg by the South African National Tuberculosis organization (SANTA) it was a mini town essentially a working model of certain South African cities and ports, including airport and jumbo jet with control tower , or harbor and cargo ships and tugs.
Having a printer like this for a venue like that would be a huge help to recreate all sorts.

Leo mentioned building a village, well yeah i think u could cnc route a lot but for some finer details this 3D printer would be way to go.
 
I just love seeing what you guys are doing.

I can see how this could incorporated into some craft stuff.

Interior trays in jewelry boxes, hinges, highlights, accents, textures, colors.

I can think of all sorts of stuff.
 
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