Raised Panels for a bed

Aaron Beaver

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Missouri
I will be making the bed in the attached picture at some point, right now I am just trying to figure everything out and get things ready.

One question I have for the group is:
How would you do the panels?
What bits would you use, what shape/profile would look good for the panels?

I have never made a panel door before so what ever I need I am probably going to have to buy so I wanted some input one what type of panel bits I should look at for this project. The panels don't have to look exactly like they do in the picture but it gives the idea.
 

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I done raised panels like that quite a few times. You'll need a cove bit similar to this one. Make several passes; don't try to cut the profile in one pass.

Edit: For a complete set of bits required for all components, look at this set.
 
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There is a number of ways to make panels.

The picture shows raised panels with rails and stiles like cabinet doors.
That is all done with a three piece cutter set.
They can be a bit pricey depending on your budget.
It does take a little practice to get them right but not impossible.


You could make plain flat panels and everything could be done on the table saw with a normal table saw blade.
 
Aaron, lots to consider here and lots of options for you to consider ... have a router table? have a small or large HP router? What raised profile are you looking for? Do you want the non-raised side of the panel to be flush or recessed relative to the rails/stiles? Etc.
Do a search on horizontal vs. vertical raised panel router bits so see the differences/benefits/drawbacks. Also look at the various router bit supplier websites to see all the different bits/sets/sizes that are offered to help you guide your design choice and equipment needs.
And, if you are good with raised panels where there is no curve in the 'raising sections' you can make them on a table saw, thus no router stuff required .
Best of luck and hope we are helping not hindering
 
i agree that the bit set bill showed will do it and like others said you could do it with table saw.. as for a vertical bit for doing raised panels i wouldnt suggest it. it does work with smaller hp routers but harder to maintain the shape your after.. running panels flat on a table is safer than running one standing up.
 
I consider a router table (or a shaper) a requirement for raised panels.

Having used multiple profiles over the years, I now only use "quarter round" profile on the rails and stiles.... far easier to sand and finish.

Be sure to make a jig for cutting the ends of the rails... with hold down clamps to keep the rail exactly perpendicular to the cut.

For the raised panels, I look for a simpler profile, again for ease in sanding. I can do single pass but I have a 5 hp shaper; with anything less I would count on several passes to remove that much wood. I would consider using a table saw for the panels, but that is not easy. Vertical panel cutters scare me.

I would not even consider the 1/4 inch shaft cutters. Stability and precision dictate at least a half inch shaft (or in my case, 1 1/4 inch shaper shaft)
 
I do have a router table with the Porter Cable 3hp router.

Some follow up questions:
1.) With these router bit sets, all of them cut the rail/stile to some shape, would it look weird if I profiled the panel with a bit, then just left the rail/stile square with a groove in it to accept the panel? Looks like those bit sets that Bill showed have a lot of good profiles and some that are a simpler profile to make sanding easier as was mentioned.

2.) Never thought about the panel be flush with stiles/rails, not sure it matters to me, but if I did want it one way or the other I would just have to change the panel thickness correct?
3.) Whats the panel bits with "undercutter", I don't need that do I?

Thanks for the help, gives me something to start researching.
 
An undercutting bit is also called a back cutter. Look at this: https://www.toolstoday.com/c-310-raised-panel-router-bits.aspx

Also look at the rail and style bits, as they make your frame for the panel. Here: https://www.toolstoday.com/c-313-stile-and-rail-router-bits.aspx

Router bit catalogs are invaluable to help visualize the cut you get.

That said, buy a quality bit. You will be removing a LOT of wood and these kinds of bits are pricey to begin with, but it is no place to cut corners on cost. Your PC 3HP router will get the job done, but do plan on multiple passes. Don't over look that as your cut becomes more defined, you are removing increasing amounts of wood, likely reducing the depth of cut. Its the surface area of the cut that determines the amount of wood being removing.

Do you have other projects in mind where you plan to use these kinds of bits? For example, a kitchen build will more than wear out router bits. Since they are matched sets (the rail and stile) it is problematic to get them sharpened because the geometry changes over so slightly with every sharpening.

One final hint. To keep getting the very cut, keep the bit clean. At the first sign of crud build-up, clean it off. Dirty bits cut like dull bits. Dull bits generate lot more heat accelerating the dulling of the edge.
 
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1.) With these router bit sets, all of them cut the rail/stile to some shape, would it look weird if I profiled the panel with a bit, then just left the rail/stile square with a groove in it to accept the panel? Looks like those bit sets that Bill showed have a lot of good profiles and some that are a simpler profile to make sanding easier as was mentioned.

If you don't want a profile, you can make a frame, perhaps with mortise and tenon construction, and cut a groove for the panel. You can even do that, and use a roundover bit on the assembled frame (clamped but not glued), and fine tune the corners with a chisel. Or you could spring for the rail and stile bits like everyone does.


...

2.) Never thought about the panel be flush with stiles/rails, not sure it matters to me, but if I did want it one way or the other I would just have to change the panel thickness correct?
3.) Whats the panel bits with "undercutter", I don't need that do I?

It is far easier to sand the whole door or whatever if the panel is the same height as the rail and stile. Oversimplified, if you want a 1/4 inch groove in the middle of a 3/4 inch frame, you need 1/4 inch above and below the groove. Therefore, the panel should have 1/4 inch above and below the tongue.

In practice I like the panel farther forward, so the groove is maybe 3/16 or less from the back and 5/16 or more from the front. The back cutter, with a fixed 1/4 inch spacer (or whatever to match the rail and stile groove) makes the cut very easy, but I have on occasion used part of the profile of the front cutter to do the back. The back cutter is worth the investment.

Some factories use 5/8" panels rather than 3/4 inch so they don't have to do the back cutter. To me that looks cheap.

Since I am spending your money, two more things to watch for: Many rail and stile sets have a groove 3/8 inch deep, which means the tongue/tenon on the rail is only 3/8 inch long. Better sets have a 1/2 inch tenon and groove.

!/4 inch is a common groove width in the American rails and stiles, but 5 mm is common in Europe, so those cutters only have a groove and tenon about 80% as thick. Be sure your set is consistent - check carefully if you mix brands.

If you decide to use flat panels at some point, the 1/4 inch American plywood is enough thinner that it rattles in the 1/4 inch groove. However, when I veneer one side of 1/4 inch plywood the rattle becomes insignificant. Why? Typically 1/4 inch plywood only has one good side. I put fancy veneer on the back for the outside of the door, and the factory veneer is adequate for the inside of the door.
 
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