glenn bradley
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There are times I wonder why I have an "L" fence. I just got a reminder . . .
Some jigs have zero-clearance wear surfaces. This dado jig is not supposed to but, I learned on version 1 that the occasional ham-handed individual (that would be me) may be too impatient to let the router wind down before removing it from the jig, misjudge his trajectory and take a bite out of the jig. Because of this I made the jig restore-able.
The ZCI is made via a reference surface where a PC collar rides during operation.
I like this method since with the collar and the bit well centered, router body orientation is of no consequence. However, I need to use this reference edge on the tablesaw to re-true the ZCI edge.
There are other ways to accomplish this but, I happen to have an "L" fence.
I set the "L" fence high enough to allow a through cut but, low enough to give me a good bearing surface.
I set the fence even with the left side of the blade and then use the tablesaw DRO to offset it the amount I want to leave behind after the cut.
I run the part along the L fence and get a nice clean edge.
I glue on strips that are a bit fatter than required.
I reassemble the jig and align it. Prior to my next use I will make a dry run with the router to reestablish the ZCI.
On this jig you set the dado width with a piece of the stock that you plan to put into the dado. You then line the ZCI edge up against the mark where you want the dado cut and have at it. Not a lot of info on the jig. More an example of the "L" fence making something awkward more safe and easy to do.
Some jigs have zero-clearance wear surfaces. This dado jig is not supposed to but, I learned on version 1 that the occasional ham-handed individual (that would be me) may be too impatient to let the router wind down before removing it from the jig, misjudge his trajectory and take a bite out of the jig. Because of this I made the jig restore-able.
The ZCI is made via a reference surface where a PC collar rides during operation.
I like this method since with the collar and the bit well centered, router body orientation is of no consequence. However, I need to use this reference edge on the tablesaw to re-true the ZCI edge.
There are other ways to accomplish this but, I happen to have an "L" fence.
I set the "L" fence high enough to allow a through cut but, low enough to give me a good bearing surface.
I set the fence even with the left side of the blade and then use the tablesaw DRO to offset it the amount I want to leave behind after the cut.
I run the part along the L fence and get a nice clean edge.
I glue on strips that are a bit fatter than required.
I reassemble the jig and align it. Prior to my next use I will make a dry run with the router to reestablish the ZCI.
On this jig you set the dado width with a piece of the stock that you plan to put into the dado. You then line the ZCI edge up against the mark where you want the dado cut and have at it. Not a lot of info on the jig. More an example of the "L" fence making something awkward more safe and easy to do.