Looks like I need to build a TS sled

Tom Baugues

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Lafayette, Indiana
I'm going to attempt to build my first table saw sled. Never needed one before but I have a project in mind that I will need to use one. I have a small 10 inch Craftsman saw so the sled will not be very big. So, with no real plans to go by I have seen a few videos and photos of some that I like so this is my weekend project. I'll let you know how it goes. Fingers crossed.
 
Any reason why I couldn't/shouldn't use this composite material for the base of the sled? I'll use some kind of hardwood for the front, rear and runners underneath it.
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I wouldn't, but my reasons are rooted in my deep hatred of particleboard. It would actually be functional with that material, though maybe not as long lived as it would if you used plywood for the base. It also looks a little thick (3/4"?), generally the ones I make are on 1/2" thick ply. Even a small piece of that will have (maybe) more weight than you want to move around. Lastly, I've always found running screws (for the fence and runners) into particleboard is an iffy proposition....they just don't hold all the well.
 
My best sled is 1/4" BB plywood. Lost the least amount of cutting depth and is lightweight and easy to lift and store when not in use. The runner and fence give it stability. Never have been sorry I did not use heavier material. After all, it is only the carrier of the wood to be cut. Why would it need to be heavy? Also another nay vote on the composite board. Not stable over the long haul and presents difficultly with fasteners. Finally, a large drafting triangle against the blade (saw unplugged) and the fence works wonders getting things squared up. This is a jig you will use much more than once. You will have some time in it to get it just right. Its quality transfer directly to your project. Don't scrimp on materials on the front side. You won't be happy with ether the jig nor your project if you do.
 
Mine's ¾" Baltic Birch ply, and it's lasted over 20 years. Still as solid and accurate as the day it was built.

BTW, the current issue of Popular Woodworking has a really nice (and elaborate) sled article.
 
So....if I understand everyone....I can go ahead and use the composite wood? OK...OK... just kidding. I will take advantage of all your advice and invest in some better material! I went out to start the project this morning only to notice that my Craftsman table saw has the T-slot tracks. So this will present another hurdle. I suppose I can cut the runners then run them across the router and make them still fit the track. This sled is going to be a whole project in itself.
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I wouldn't bother making the runner fit the t-slot. It doesn't need the mechanical 'lock' of the tee. Just make the runner slide in the slot with no side play. The t-slot helps hold a miter gauge that is extended beyond the front edge of the table to get the cut started. You won't have the problem with a sled. The base coupled with the weight of the wood to be cut evens that out. KISS principle here.
 
The problem Carol is that the slots have those "notches" that prevent a square runner to slide through. I suppose I could cut my runners short enough to get below them, then add spacers to the runners to get them up even to the table top.
 
When I built my last sled I used the 24 inch Incra miter sliders for stability. I live in VA and we have lots of humidity and I didn't like the way wood sliders would expand in the heat and humidity. These are not that expensive and they keep everything aligned well. I have been very happy with my choice.
 
Slots with 'notches'? Sure would like to see picture of that. My aging brain can't picture it.

He's already posted a picture, Carol.

Tom: I've never seen a slot arrangement like the one you pictured. The 'conventional' version just looks like an inverted "T" that's 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. For that, a 3/4 by 3/8 rectangular slide works just fine. I'm at a loss as to what to do with your setup.
 
Slots with 'notches'? Sure would like to see picture of that. My aging brain can't picture it.
Well I wrote up a post with more photos but must have not hit "reply" so let me try it again.
My "t" track is not a true "T" the entire length of the track. The tabletop has notches that are designed to hold down the miter gauge in just two different places along each track. Poor design if I do say so. Anyway...I have the issue resolved by simply setting up the router and grooved my runners to accept these notches. Everything now fits nice and slides smooth. So now to attach the base. I went out to buy a piece of Baltic Birch plywood for use on this project but thought that $25.00 (Home Depot) for a 2'x4' piece was too much to spend for my needs. I'll pick up some elsewhere at a later time. For now I'm going to go ahead and use this composite material I have in order to complete the projects that I'm making. Since I set up several machines to make these runners I went ahead and made 3 more sets at the same time. This way they are already made for when I get some better base material.
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I found a walnut board that had too many knots in it to use for anything else so I was able to cut around the knots to make two fences. I also added some countersunk screws down into my oak runners from the top. I'm sure this is taking me MUCH longer to build than what most of you all can do but so far it seems to be something that will work. I will still need to get a good square to set the fences to the blade. I did see the video on the "5 cut" procedure so hopefully that will help me get it set up square. Base moves back and forth smoothly with no wobble anywhere. Still have to make that "initial" cut as well. I've read about adding a stop block to the front so that the saw blade cannot come out the front. Sounds like a good idea to me so I'll probably do that too.
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Add a box or 'dummy block' to the rear where the blade exits. My small sled has a box, the larger sleds use blocks and both work.

TS DT Jig V1 (4).jpgRT Sled (3).jpg

I would have ground off those tabs so that they didn't interfere with almost any other after market or shop made accessory that relies on the miter slot going forward. You've got that solved though. Since this is just to get you through one project, replaceable throat and fence inserts would probably have been overkill although they do allow you to use the sled for dados and beveled cuts. Like any other ZCI, the slots will wear and need attention or replacement. A sled doesn't have to be overly complex but, needs to be maintainable if it is to lead a long and useful life.

It looks like your sled will do you fine. Do take an hour out of your life and re-confirm that your saw is aligned as best as possible before making the first (and final without replaceable ZCI's) cut. Oops, . . . afterthought . . . I to use 3/4" BB ply and have a 10 year old sled that is still in use along with his younger cousins. A coat of shellac and some paste way and the riding surface lasts and lasts.
 
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as far as sleds go, i've used 3/4" mdf for the base. not as glamorous as plywood, but i've had problems with plywood bowing (even baltic birch). dead flat and stable, that's what i like about it.
 
Finished the table saw sled up this morning. Waxing the rails and track makes it move effortlessly. I have no twisting movement from the rails so the sled moves back and forth pretty true. Squared up the sled fence using a shop square and the table saw fence and that got me pretty darn close. I did try to tweek it some but it came down to moving it only the width of a pencil mark....if that. I used the 5 cut method video and tried to follow his math. A 14" long board is only out about 0.030 so I called that good enough and added a couple final screws to hold it all tight. I expect this to work well for the projects I'm wanting to do.
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